otterslide

On 9/18/2017 at 10:45 PM, shadytints said:

salt in the softener is to clean the resin tank.  should be no salt in the water.  been on well water for 17 years, 3x20 pre-filter for iron and undisolved solids.  40k grain softener for the hard water.  house filter have to change every 3 months or so,  think its a 5 micron.  they make another for after the softener in a 3x20 with 1 or 1.5 micron.  filters cartridges are $10 compared to $50 for my fridge filter which  I no longer have to change.   so many things effect how slippery your slip will be,  reason I am trying to make a tank with adjustable slip on the fly.

That sounds like a good idea.  There is a small amount of salt in water, instead of cal/mag it gets replaced with salt.  Some people can taste it in their water.  I was able to get pretty good results with more shampoo and I had no fingers still.  I put 8ml per 900ml.  

I am going to try an organic shampoo next, I am getting slightly allergic to the JJ shampoo.   I have an older bottle that was bought before they removed the two cancer causing ingredients..

I think even plain aloe vera gel could work.  It will cost more, but leave your hands feeling great.  If less of it is required it may not cost too much extra overall.  

On 9/14/2017 at 11:41 PM, quality tintz said:

Guys been thinking lately about stuff getting in tint..would gloves and a pantsuit work or armor wear??shady??plastic gloves for skin shedding??

I think you're more likely to trap dust in gloves than your skin, and skin washes off easier than gloves. This is what I found, although I like wearing gloves because the shampoo leaves my hands feeling dry. 

It looks like the variation depends on water type and temperature. 

Water softeners make more slippery water even to the touch, and definitely for tint install.  I will try RO water with more shampoo.  I don't know how the salt from the softener affects tint, but I have a feeling it doesn't help.

I guess a few tries are needed before adjusting to the water source and temperature.  RO/distilled should be universal, so I will be trying 10-15ml per 1L of RO water as others have suggested.  I have a feeling my next install will be much easier =)  I have been struggling a lot since I had so little slip, but the benefit was that I had no fingers pop up..

I always managed to get it in place, but I contaminated the top too much while peeling it back a few times to re-position and re-fill with solution. 

1 hour ago, jh812 said:

Distilled water 2 ounces to one gallon works for me. Spray bottles I don't measure just a heavy squeeze. 

Wow, that's equal to about 15cc for me, since I am adding to a 950ml spray bottle. So I definitely need more it seems.  2oz of JJ right? Which would be 59cc/ml.

I tired a few front windows today and I was having real trouble slipping the film once it tacked down.

Even with barely finger pressure while trying to move the film side to side, it would tack. That was enough to tack that pulling it back would make the unsticking adhesive noise.  I had to really load it up with solution to get it where I want.

I was using Reverse Osmosis water + 3cc of JJ.  So I tried + 5cc of JJ, and still it would tack quite easily and I had trouble slipping the film in the proper position.  I'm sure for a pro it would work, but I need a little time and a little extra give.

So then I tried plain tap water, I have a water softener, and + 5cc of JJ. This solution turned out to be much more slipperier than the mix with the reverse osmosis water, so much so that fingers started coming up on the same window that I never had fingers.  

Within 2 hours of the film I did using RO water+ 3cc JJ, the film was mounted so well that pulling it off left adhesive behind on the glass.

So I'm wondering, does anyone use distilled water or RO water?  It seems to make a huge difference.

I don't know if RO+even more JJ would eventually match the softwater+JJ.  I think I will try 8cc+RO.  It seems the RO water lowers the slipperiness of the JJ shampoo by quite a lot.  I think soft water probably increases it.

It was quite warm as well, 77F, which clearly caused my solution to slip less.  When I used RO+3cc at around 65F it was not too bad.

If you have a film and are not sure about it, wrap your cell phone up in it, folds the ends and tape it closed, then try to call it.

I was actually able to call mine even through the NSN70, although the network icon showed half, but normally it shows full bars.

The Gila did about the same thing.. I think it's a 35 or 40% reflective.

I have tested some metallized films, Gila Reflective and Sputtered Nichrome Silver Nichome 70 with my EMF meter. They are both very effective at blocking radio signals.

That being said, to completely RF shield a car is actually very hard.  Radio waves can enter through any small openings. Any glass that has no tint on it such as the dark back glass, taillights, plastic trims, sunroof and rubber door gaskets.

Tint is not usually installed all the way up to the metal, and it may even be impossible to do it because of rubber gaskets.

So, some waves will always be able to get through, and likely the reason hardly anybody notices any effect. This is especially true if the windshield is not covered. 

A cell phone that is transmitting inside a car with metal tint may boost it's signal slightly, but I don't have metal film yet to test this out.