suntint

Have an upcoming job where will need to scrape Anti Graffiti film off of the exterior side of one window while standing on an overlook.  And then squeege clean.  So would stand on the overlook and reach over the top of the glass (about 4' high) and then scrape downwards to remove film.  Could try attaching a Triumpf scraper to a broom handle but has anyone use any kind of telescoping wand that can more securely attach the scraper to?

If can't do it this way will have to rent a lift so it would be much easier if can do it this way.

Thanks to any who can advise.

Have an upcoming job where will need to scrape Anti Graffiti film off of the exterior side of one window while standing on an overlook.  And then squeege clean.  So would stand on the overlook and reach over the top of the glass (about 4' high) and then scrape downwards to remove film.  Could try attaching a Triumpf scraper to a broom handle but has anyone use any kind of telescoping wand that can more securely attach the scraper to?

If can't do it this way will have to rent a lift so it would be much easier if can do it this way.

Thanks to any who can advise

My experience with the film goes back close to two years and it did not go great.  With some replacements eventually the customer accepted the work, (an obscuring film on the outside of the glass helped covering up some of the Casper problems) but the way it looked, if it were any other film I'd have torn down and redone.

Some people seem to have kinda, sorta figured it out.  Foxy had some posts about it.  I have seen some installations in the field by others which looked not too bad.  Pics from Midtown Houston look good.

Two things we did I found out later were not good to do with Casper.

Normally will mist the liner before removing it to cut down static electricity and stop dust from being attracted to film when removing the liner -  this is not good to do with Casper.

Sometimes after first placing film on glass will lightly bump film into alignment - this is not good to do with Casper.

Good luck

Anyone do one like this?  Would rather not do it but someone wants me to.

Anyone have experience with installing the Hanita Poly film on exterior of bubble skys?  How did it go?

Anyone have experience with installing the Hanita Poly film on exterior of bubble skys?  How did it go?

Scraped piece of old gold solar film.  Trying to match.  Apologize for the pic quality.

Anyone know who made and maybe still makes this?

Scraped piece of old gold solar film.  Trying to match.  Apologize for the pic quality.

Anyone know who made and maybe still makes this?

Thanks for the advice, Midtown.  What I see in your pictures look good.  Better than we got.  What we got looked like something to be be ripped off and refilmed if it were with any other film.  But we filmed it awhile and was thinking maybe the film or directions have gotten better.

Have spoken to a couple of people from not from around here who kinda sorta think they have it figured out.  And did see an installation around here of someone who got it looking pretty good.

Going to post again and see if anyone can post best practices.

14 hours ago, Roach said:

I sent a txt to a friend up in that area.... if I hear back I'll let you know. Haven't talked to him in a while though and he hasn't been on the site... long shot, but you never know.

 

 

Thx, Roach

Posted this also at the Commercial and Residential Forum:

Have potential Casper Cloaking film projects in Metro NY.  Have installed this once and would rather find someone experienced with this to install it as results were not great last time.   Is there someone experienced with Casper installs near or willing to travel to Metro NY for projects?

Wasn't logged in before.  Posting again.  People can pm me.

Have potential Casper Cloaking film projects in Metro NY.  Have installed this once and would rather find someone experienced with this to install it as results were not great last time.   Is there someone experienced with Casper installs near or willing to travel to Metro NY for projects?

4 hours ago, TomTint said:

The chances that you break a piece of tempered with black out..is slim to none..and Slim just left town. 

Don't recall it ever happening.  But I always cover myself.

The thing that gets me about breakage is sometimes the ones you least expect are the ones to break.  Remember a house years ago with dh windows we installed 3M Neutral 50 on.  Not large windows and not a high absorbing film but we had like 3 breaks out of 20 panels done.  Must've been pretty poor glass.

Customer wants us to install a blackout film on exterior facing glass (large insulated, but tempered) that is relatively reflective.  Have warned them about potential breakage and that they are on their own if it happens.

Any suggestions for relatively reflective blackout?

5 hours ago, TomTint said:

We have a D.C. Removal on the schedule for next week. I'm going to try sweating it off with Epic Orange.. that stuff works on dry adhesive..I'm thinking it will kick butt on D.C. 

What is the smell like with Epic Orange?  Actually have some LLumar removal coming up and if it works well with that and doesn't smell bad I would try that.

On the D.C. removal I was thinking the good thing was because it was not tempered was we were able to scrape it without scratching.  But if it were tempered in the first place bagging it prob would've worked and would've have needed to scrape.

Tried not looking at my phone cause I didn't want to know how late it was.  But the good thing is if it were during the day they prob would've thrown us out cause of the noise we were making with the scraping.

On 11/8/2018 at 10:05 AM, WearTheFoxHat said:

The bag it or "liner" trick works 99% of the time.

 

The bag or liner is just there to keep your slip from evaporating. No sun means less evaporating.

 

Towel the floor ahead of time!!!!

 

Heavy Dawn or similar dish soap in your slip sprayer.(ammonia not needed)  Bag it up for an hour or two . Add more slip as needed. Edges sometime get dry.

The longer you wait the faster the removal.

 

I've had 60" x 90" panels removed in 10 seconds with this trick multiple times. Not including the wait time of course!

Came across that 1% of the time that it doesn't work!

A few weeks old 3M Dusted Crystal band that the client decided they needed larger coverage for.  I suggested they add a band above and below the existing band leaving an 1" or so gap and it would like an original design, not like a fix.  And it would be cheaper than a removal and re-install.  But they decided they wanted the original removed and a larger full band installed.

Treated these just like the previous ones where bagging the film worked, but on most panels here  it did not work and it was a tough removal.  Some had plastic on for an hour, some had for over 3 hours.  Doors were laminated, not tempered.  Think the fixed panels were also laminated.   On a couple of the doors the film pulled right off after bagging and waiting.  Why?  I don't know.  Different side/coating of the glass?  Don't think the problem was leaving plastic on for too long and drying out, was re-wetting to keep it wet.

Thought I had this figured out and instead didn't leave this off hour job till 1:30 am.

This was done today.  Was only able to soak for about an hour and half for each panel.  Not taking 10 sec for each panel but definitely removed easier than used to seeing for removing Dusted.  Will definitely use this method again.

Thanks

Thanks, Tom.

Thanks, Roach & Foxy!

Going to need to remove an old band of 3M dusted crystal from office and conference room glass fronts.  On some of these they are having new film installed.  On some they are not having new film installed.  I have already warned them about visible scratches where no new film is going on.

I saw old topics about removing Dusted using plastic bags and water with soap or ammonia solutions.

Since there will be no sun on this glass can anyone who has done similar to this recommend the best way to remove this?  Still use plastic bags and water with soap or ammonia?

Thanks

Was just about to post something on this but you beat me to it.

Would like to have the distraction markers contract for that bldg.  Doesn't it have miles of glass?  Offer them upper and low rows of apple logo markers.

Can anyone recommend a paper cutter to use to cut film for samples and for divided lite installs?  I have one that is crap and would like to replace it.

On 6/1/2017 at 4:41 PM, TomTint said:

We bid a project with it a couple weeks ago. Gave them that option as well as Lumisty. ( similar price points ) the cloaking film is directional, in other words it needs to be installed vertically as it comes out of the box on the floor. If you flip it 90* .. it doesn't work. This limits the size of the window that can get full coverage without a seam, to the width of the film itself. 

Yep.  The vertical install is important to know.  Did a mockup yesterday and only worked when installed vertically.  Installing horizontally right out of the box would've been an easier install with much less waste of a humongously expensive film.   All those 32" wide panels need 48" wide film since can't split them with anything else.    And will need to either cutdown on the glass to the desired height using a straightedge or maybe somehow precut. 

Has anyone installed this?  I will be doing a mockup and looking for install advice.

Protinting,

The odd sunny day, you'll get them even in Northern England, can cause problems.  Limo tint on residential windows could cause trouble.  There are some dark, somewhat reflective films that would have lower heat absorption and be safer.