Tintcutter

I suggest looking at the published IR numbers. What most do not understand is that IR from 750 to 2500 nanometers is part of the TSER values. Why? because this near infrared is part of the solar energy.

There is infrared from 2500-5000nm commonly called far infrared and this is more akin to the heat off the pavement or re-radiated heat which as opposed to the solar or a more compressed (shot from a gun)  wavelength has less heat energy but is straight up hard to escape even in the shade.

Further, the glass in the car only transmits 20-40% of the near ir. It has mass and a molecular matrix only some of the wave can corkscrew through. The IR absorbing property percentages are less meaningful as a solar filter as a result, because who gives a shit if you are stopping 99 or 97 or 95% of 40 or even 20% transmission. Functionally they are too close to feel a difference.

However, this is not the case for dropping the standing temp inside a car where only IR is trying to leave the automotive greenhouse and 11heat is reflected back inside by the glass. The glass bonded high ir film is the superior method of holding heat to the glass and thus emitting it to the exterior via high emission glass values and convection as a radiator has such a valued effect.

R value is the U value of a material divided into 1 as a standard so that commonality can be found across dissimilar materials. U value is a percentage because flow rate of energy is important but actual degree measures are not useful.  A brick has an R value of 4. Why? Because 1/.25=4. The U value of a brick is 25%. that means 4 degrees go in one side and 1 comes out the far side. Or 40 go in and 10 come out or 100 go in and 25 come out. U values on products like Enerlogic are given around .62 these days. 1/.62=?. So in the overall measurement of the R value of a window of course the frame comes into play. The frame is roughly 25% issue, made problematic by the reality that the more solid a material is then also the better it conducts and holds energy due to its mass.

If you did the little math I left for you then you should also know that R values of materials are sums. They add together like you wearing multiple shirts.

Pros use the J&J because it and products like film-on are wetting agents that increase the adhesives pull off PSI to the maximum compared to the alternatives. I have even seen charts where it was all tested. The less contamination between the glue and glass the less peel up warranties you deal with, especially on the corners.

You know the usual reasons, late - sloppy - crap paperwork - problems with the work... Too bad really, last year he was doing good, but after a big commercial job this winter he was never the same. It sure feels good to be rid of a problem guy. Everybody in the store is relieved.

Llumar 11 mil cuts on my anagraph 101E plotter at a pressure setting of 12.2 (we use 4 for car tint on average) when I cut the same small (3inch * 3inch) square pattern 5 times. I can get it to cut without cutting through the release liner, by easing the pressure and cycling the cut more. I used a very pointed blade, more pointed than my 45 degree, I think it was a 30 but I may have that backwards which would mean the 60. Tint cutting plotters have weakened or none existent springs in the middle wheels if they have middle wheels. When cutting 2 mil window film like regular film, this pressure is bad, leaving permanent marks in the film. In security films, it looks like it is required and hopefully not going to harm the film due to its thickness. I am going to re-equalize the spring pressure on my machine and test again because of YAW, the lateral twist caused by higher outside wheel pressure and the higher blade pressure with the lower inside wheel pressure. It twists the film left and right as bigger panes are cut. It makes a pattern that looks like my 5 poker cards I hold in my hand, each just off axis from the other. If I can solve the YAW problem, the cutting is a none issue, and I can get on to figuring out what the hell that idiot was doing when he came up with Dow Corning 995 in a tube.

The word on the street is that S***rg***d is getting in on router tables to cut these thick films. Whn not, they have been cuttig lexan and sign industry materials for many years, just change the cut heads around and the 5'*8' router tables would be very flexible in a tint shop.

Definitely going to try it. Thanks.

Most contractors of the larger variety will have software with retail pricing for each tiny component of the construction work. Have one look up the line items "blast resistant film" and "structural sealant" and then from the price, deduct their percentage to arrive at your rate. Most use 20% or at least 10% as their profit margin on your work. If you can get it all, great!

yeah, I need one. I got at least 27,000 linear feet of caulking in my face. I really need this industry to design some supplemental products to go with these S&S films instead of letting other companies create a product and then find it works for films.

I would love to live in Seattle. I used to stop through that area on my way to Alaska where I lived. I always wanted a flight delay so I could check it out.

3M Structural Bonding Tape. Coming soon to a security film job near you!

Edited

Since this post was edited, the factory has informed me that even the low temperatures of 250 degrees would harm the film due to the long term of heat required. Forget about the fast cure of 400 degrees for 2 minutes. It would probably fry the glass thermal seal if it didnt break a tempered pane due to spot heat. But hey, :booga I'm trying!

Aww, man.

I got edited

http://www.abovetopsecret.com/forum/thread40639/pg#pid473044

http://peakoil.org/

http://www.gulland.ca/depletion/Endofroad.htm

http://www.hubbertpeak.com/de/lecture.html

Add to all these a few idiot terrorist with a misguided religious fervor and you have some interesting questions.

use a light colored vinyl outside, preferably to match outside trim colors. Its the darker vinyls that overexpand one end of the glass in cases like this. Chrome vinyl may look good on the silvered glass. Also there are exterior mount tint that are silver. The company formerly known as sungard has the best scratch coat for the exterior mount.

no choice. atr is llumistar.

ok but its not that complicated. just attaching a flat shoe to the curved gun.

take a piece of sign plastic, we use .25 inch black foamboard backing. cut it into a rectangle the width of the gun. use a gun to mold the foamboard to the curve of the top of the gun and attach with double sided tape. heat the rectangle in the middle and fold it backward over the gun so it sits level when you lower it to the floor by the cord. you can hang it nozzle up on the wall by making a foamboard bracket out of a rectangle of foamboard with two or three foamboard spacer on each end.

more soap means less sticky, so play your soap mixture until you get what is right for you.

Use the sticky transfer tape that is used in the sign industry for holding vinyl graphics together, only wet it with soapy water before you put it on your tint image. then card it and the tint image together and quicky apply the transfer tape and image to the window and squeegee. Then peel it off. The secret is to not let the transfer tape dry out. It works very well for tint with ps adhesive, we have not tried it on detack.

http://unisci.com/stories/20012/0515016.htm

so I am bored and cruising through google.

http://www.screenweb.com/inks/cont/glasslight.html

This is my favorite. Paint your tint. Maybe for dot matrix.

http://www.glassonweb.com/articles/article/192/

more,

I wonder how much $$.

http://www.napa.ufl.edu/2001news/colors.htm

Here we go. good for tiny windows, but who knows about later.

check out osha safety requirements for glass. You may find an oilfield of your own in safety films.

I got a serious line on the sign stuff you were posting about. Email me tintcutter@aol.com