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Posts posted by wndotint
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Check with your local alarm shops. See what they recommend. I'd go with a reputable shop that has a good chance of being there later to service the alarm.
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there is an interface made by Peripheral that installs with ANY remote start and makes a manual trans. perfectly safe. Did I mention ANY remote start? It's called the NSS.
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AMEN to that brotha!
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There is NO truth to that. DEI still makes/has remotes for every system they've stamped their over-rated name on.
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Keyless entries typically do not rely on the switches, unless the vehicle does not have factory relays (ie, it relies on the switch to supply the ground and 12+). A Camry has factory relays and the switch supplies the ground to activate the relays. A keyless entry system should work just fine. Don't let the installer BS you by saying he can't do it because the DL switch won't work. If he has any credibility he'll know what to do. If you need any more help, let me know.
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How did you get a cut-key that wasn't programmed? Or better yet, why?
I just spoke with the service dept at my local Honda dealer (I've known them quite a while, they're good guys) and he said only the dealer can programm the key. They have to hook the PTM up to the car and have ALL keys at the same time. Sorry for the bad news.
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yes, you have to have the key programmed. An unprogrammed key is just a fancy screwdriver. Take the key to the dealer and tell them your story.
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stay away from colored (novelty) films. They will not last very long, and are illegal in some states. As for the price difference between dark and light films, that would be something to ask your local tint shop.
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"We're broke, we trust God, so take our last $20 and GAMBLE!" Unbelievable!
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on a CRV you have to use relays to boost the ground for the lock/unlock wires. No diodes needed.
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Should be standard wiring colors. Comon, you can figure it out. Just start wiring it up. It will all work out.
[*]222880
There's no such thing as "standard colors" for alarms. Stereos yes, alarms no. Granted, red is probably constant 12+, yellow is ignition, and black is ground, but the rest can (and will) be different from brand to brand. Sometimes brown is neg door trigger and sometimes it's siren out. The best thing to do if you can't find an install manual is to hook up the red and black, then use a tester to find out what the other wires do at different times (ground when armed for starter k1ll, ground when disarmed for domelight supervision, park lights, 2nd channel, siren/horn, etc.) The triggers will be a guessing game, but after you've found the wires mentioned above, there won't be that many left. Let me/us know what you have.
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Google for what you need if you haven't already. If that didn't help, what colors do you have?
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Does that mean that if I'm hired, I have to cheer for the 'Huskers?
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Set up a shortcut on your desktop to go to Bypasskit.com. At the top you simply enter the year, make and model and it will tell you what it takes. If the vehicle doesn't show up, it doesn't need anything. You would think that would be easy enough, but the "sales staff" here can't handle that. I tried explaining what to look for in the keys but that was over their heads. Now, they just tell everyone on the phone to bring 2 ignition keys with them. They don't think it's right to charge them extra if they need a bypass piece, so it doesn't matter cost-wise if I use one or not. A 2004 chevy that gets a keyless/start pays the same amount as a 1990 chevy.
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If it is a factory installed system, forget about it and install (or HAVE installed) the alarm you want.
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Ground to 87, 85, 86, 87 (top, inside, inside, top posts), 820 on one 30, 330 on the other 30, lock wires from brain to pins opposite side of relay. Tie ends of resistors together and run to lock/unlock wire in DKP.
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For me, no. For you, , I'm not you. Just try it and then you'll have an educated answer.
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Kellen is a punk. Just like Deion Sanders. He may be good, but he's a loudmouth. I hope he gets the Starks-treatment every single play.
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I just saw it in the classifieds, so disregard #1.
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1. It should have been put in the classifieds.
2. What's with all the question marks in the comments?
I'm new need advice on heat shrinking......
in Window Tinting - General Discussion
Posted
It's much easier to shrink the film prior to installation. Shrink it on the outside with the liner still on. Make all the fingers on the bottom. Keep the bottom of the tint about 1/2" above the gasket. The factory edge is the edge of the film that is at the ends of the tube or roll. If you hold the roll of film at a vertical stance, the factory edges are at the top and bottom. Most every film can only be shrunk towards the factory edge. Wet shrinking is the only way to go for doors and stationary windows.