palmettotint

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About palmettotint

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  1. I've never seen a door panel come apart like this one in 20+ years of car audio and window tint. Crazy! The usual plastic/aluminum trim pops off but it's held in with a plastic set pin. Pictures show what's up. You'll need a short-ish straight pic to push up on the pin from underneath. After that it's just a regular BMW door removal.
  2. Double-shrink it on the outside and you won't have finger problems in the first place. I don't think I've had a finger in months.
  3. This'll go all 7 games because I believe the NBA is greedy. We won't see an actual game where the two teams are giving it their all until game 7. They should just go ahead and make it one game just like the Super Bowl.
  4. ^^^Oohhhh, I'mma try that!
  5. Huper Optik Ceramic has a reputation for doing this. I've learned that 0000 steel wool and alcohol will cure all your woes. I also use this combo on new Mustangs and Chargers where popcorn is a big problem. Scrub in a crosshatching pattern and you'll thank me later.
  6. If you've already got the bottom sweeps out, just bottom-load the tint. Minimal risk of trash and no kinks on the sides. It's my preferred method. I'd bottom-load everything if it was a viable option on all cars. Side note: Are you using the old school tan masking tape, or the new blue or green painters tape? The new stuff doesn't bite as well. Always use the tan stuff on felt.
  7. Your don't want to do it by hand with knifeless tape? It's time consuming, but the final product it perfect.
  8. An old-skooler of 35 years told me to shrink everything EXCEPT those bottom corners. When you install it, squeegie and as fast as you can and stick a bundle of paper towels in there to keep it from lifting back up. Let it sit for an hour to dry and you're done. I have yet to try this out so I can't vouch for it.
  9. My brother has one around this year... '05 I think... Anyways, his drain tubes for his a/c got clogged over the years. This caused a massive water dump into the pass. floorboard and on the computer in the pass. kick panel. The drains are under the hood on the firewall. They're oval-shaped pieces of rubber. One on each side. Pull them out (you don't even need tools!) and clear the debris. Be forewarned, a couple gallons of water will drain out if this is, in fact, the problem. Good luck!
  10. 2013-ish Lexus IS250 convertible. Still not sure how it happened, but my best guess is I pulled the window switches out (and prob left them flipped upside down) to remove the door panels. Water apparently got into the pass switch then shorted the driver's switch. Then the top wouldn't move because it didn't know if the windows were up or not. $2k later.... My daddy always told me "If you're gonna' do something, do it right.".
  11. Yeah, the clear adds surface energy. If it's in the time and money budget, do that on top of the etching primer. Make sure you stick with the same name brands on the clear and primer. I've seen mix-matched names do weird stuff to the finish when used together.
  12. I'd at least paint it with a coat of etching primer. Make no mistake, steel WILL rust underneath the film.
  13. Happened to me, too. Takes two weeks to fix. They'll prob send you a letter in the mail with a confirmation code. They send it to that address so they know for a fact that you're still there.