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Posts posted by chriswelckle
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So what about a wider pattern set? I use a 60" plotter. Do I use just 2 pinch rollers? Not the 3 that are provided?So the stripe doesn't typically matter as the plotter will cut inside of that. 8 inch is a little narrow and will cause tracking problems.i use 12 inch for strips. I know it's typically more waste than I'd like but it's a 12 inch not that much money tied up in it. Lastly I use a 25 degree blade.
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That's what I was looking for! Thank you.So the stripe doesn't typically matter as the plotter will cut inside of that. 8 inch is a little narrow and will cause tracking problems.i use 12 inch for strips. I know it's topically more waste than I'd like but it's a 12 inch not that much money tied up in it. Lastly I use a 25 degree blade.
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Since there are a few people looking at this post, I would like to ask what blade type and angle works best for tint?
I mean, I use my plotter almost entirely for Ppf. I would like to expand into tint in a productive way. I tried cutting a brow with a narrow piece of film and noticed 2 things. 1 was that I was laying down a stripe in the tint from the rollers. Mine are little micro needle points and that does not matter for Ppf, but concerned will show on the install. I tried decreasing the pressure and no more stripes. 2. The next problem was the narrow piece(8" wide and 5ft long) would now missfeed. Maybe not a problem with a wider piece of material.
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I always explain this to people and they don't quite understand. Tint is installed as a wet method. It is necessary to facilitate the install. It would be like watering your yard and waking outside after and saying my yard is wet. I see some puddles. Should I re-water?Hi guys, I just got my car windows tinted yesterday and there are so many bubbles on my back window, it’s basically the whole window covered in small bubbles. My other windows have little to no bubbles? Should I get my back window redone? Or is that normal and will eventually go away?
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I say, can you take a picture of it from the outside? Then if you can't, just wait before jumping to conclusions. I am certain the tinter will re-do it if necessary.It will dry out in a week. If they look like little water blisters, ignore them. If they are white (when looking from the outside of the glass) then they are air pockets and would need attention.
side windows are 85 to 90 degree and all solution used to apply material goes down when squeeged and the back glass and windshield will take longer to dry and you are looking at them through an angle which is why you notice them more.
yoou just had it done yesterday so give it time to dry. If you have concerns go to the shop that installed it and I am sure they will help you with the knowledge of the drying process.
Cheers
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No! Relax. It takes time to dry out. Especially in winter. Typically the sides get more attention than the rear for a particular squeegee that pushes out more water. It is NOT necessary for the overall quality. It only accelerates the drying/adhesion time. It has no effect on overall quality. It just freaks people out.Hi guys, I just got my car tinted yesterday and there is so many bubbles on my back window, it’s is basically the whole window covered in small bubbles. My other windows have little to no bubbles? Should I get my back window redone? Or is that normal and will eventually go away?
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Mine came with nothing for software. It only came with the stand. Like I said, I found a re-possessed unit. It was well used, too. At the time it was worth it for me.Rite on thanks
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If I did it again, and I am not going to, I would consider the fc8000
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Vinyl Express q160. It the same as a Graphtec. In fact, I gave it an electrical static electricity shock and fried the mother board. I replaced it with and FC7000 Graphtec mother board. That's how I know.What brand was second one??I use it for paint protection film. I have played around with tint, but I find as a one man show, it's just a distraction. It's required for ppf.
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Don't we all! Don't be confused and buy too cheap! You will end up buying another one then. Vinyl Express makes some good ones that are Graphtec under the cover. I searched the internet high and low and bought mine probably 10 years ago after I had bought my first one for nearly $1000. Mine came from a company that repossess business machines from places going out of business. I paid 2 grand for my second one, after I paid a grand for my first, so really I paid $3 grand for the one I have since there is no market for used plotters that are junk.
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Watch the back blading video by Rick Tallman. On youtube.So....... what is the solution to the back window on a mopar? I don’t like using steel wool. This is very stressful. I have no problems with a GM. I see the new Mustang is the same. I’m sure I’m doing something wrong but, what? Am I the only one that can’t master this? -
Thanks Rick!
Need a affordable plotter!
in Plotters and Cutting Systems
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