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  1. 3m matte film is a little less sticky than stealth, both are fairly easy to install since you really don't get any silvering with matte films. I've put about 14 inch stretch on a 72 inch rocker piece without any stretch mark. If you are gonna use xpel for plotting I would free hand the doors, trunk, hood and rear bumper just because they have some quality of life seams and relief cuts that you don't want with matte wraps. For the front bumper make sure the butt joints are super tight you might even want to overlap the joint and hand cut it this will avoid the need to one piece that front bumper which is probably the only hard thing on the Tesla's. Good luck
  2. Update: tried the orange crush beveled 5 inch and it seems to have the flex and power I'm looking for, cheers guys.
  3. I'm using xpel film with super tacky adhesive, which I have grown to love as I've had zero problems with warranties and lifting, but I'm looking for a squeegee that can really drive out moisture. The only squegees that have been working well for me is the red baron and blue max without a handle. Only problem I'm having is that the red baron has almost no flex and the blue max hurts my wrist and is somewhat directional. Do you guys know of any squeegees with the power of the red baron but the flexibility of the thinner blue max, or a way to "break in" the red baron?
  4. I definitely agree its about technique, but without cheap and effective learning resources in the ppf world (To my knowledge there is no Justin Pate for ppf and guys like Bemaro don't make how to videos) I feel that I need to abuse the positive characteristics of different films while I learn to be a better installer, cheers.
  5. Has anyone had any experience either of these films in regards to adhesive strength (needs to resist pull back, needs to have supreme edge sealing) and stretchibility? Are these infused top coats like the old avery ppf or is this a top coated film like llumar and xpel? Would be looking to keep one roll of highly stretchable film just for ultra deep recesses (stamps on f350 hoods) and one piece mirrors, tailgates etc. If not these films which film would be most suitable for "things you probably shouldn't one piece but will try anyways" cheers!
  6. roughly 95 width 80 long, most have stripes down the middle which means you can still complete a full hood and hide the seems along the vinyl, my point was just that some bonnets are just so ludicrously large you'd need a 84 inch roll to complete them.
  7. 12 inches bigger than the previous largest roll yet 8 inches too short for a viper hood, riperino
  8. Thanks for all the tips, if I get another one of these I'm gonna work out the solution from the middle out rather than outside in cause that should ensure there are no dryspots, definitely makes it harder to keep the valley from popping up when you're not 6 foot 11 and trying to do a f350 hood haha. Cheers
  9. Just bought some J and J this morning, I remember needing to use it to install xpel 6200 without stretch marks back in the day
  10. I recently made the switch from suntek to xpel and need some help avoiding chicken skin looking stretch marks. When I'm installing full hoods and there is a deep recess (ie f150 s and f350s) I try to get rid of all the air before squeegeeing the recess but what I find is that I also get rid of too much slip solution and then I end up getting dry spots and chicken skin like stretch marks, do you guys have a particular squeegee and slip combo to tackle these valleys without having them pop up or become dry? I usually use the black smoothie with dawn and a small bit of alcohol mix because it really gets into the valley but it doesn't seem to have the stiffness to get rid of the moisture and keep the valley from popping up. I also notice that in order to get rid of all the moisture from the film I need to use a red baron or wait overnight for the bubbles to dissipate. Never got any bubbles or dry spots with suntek but I understand the adhesive is much much more forgiving.
  11. I can't imagine the phone ever rings (for things being wrong) at xpel, xpel kits are unbelievably accurate. Installing them is easy mode (not faster though; more coverage = more time) because they are just that accurate.
  12. Just out of curiosity, how long did your car stay inside after being wrapped? I've had film pull back from going from 22 C to 10C within 30 minutes. Its also possible that he just forgot to heat that edge I don't know. Suntek is practically held on by static which is a double edged sword; The good: you can pull that back and get a faint or even non existent lift line (silvering line). Do this by spraying the area with hot soapy water (1litre and a couple drops of dawn) I would gently lift the film only about a half inch while spraying your fingers with the slip solution making sure not to scrape the glue while you pick up the film. After picking up the film clean the adhesive side by spraying the solution and gently rubbing any dirt specs off the film. Then spray more solution under the film and massage the soap into and along the lift line if you do it right you shouldn't get much silvering. Then you should be able to tack the film back down with a heat gun and pressure from your fingers, a lint free cloth or a squeegee. Heat it until you don't see that half mm of white along the edge, in the picture you can see that film wants to pull back or at the very least the edge isn't sealed. The bad: suntek really doesn't like hyper stretch so you may in the future need to 2piece, relief cut and or adhesive promote that mirror to avoid pull back. Alternatively if your guy sells xpel ultimate plus you could try to wrap the mirror in that. I've tested hyper stretching xpel and I did not observe any pull back or fingering (I don't use xpel and have no reason to prop it up this is just my observation). The easiest fix that I will get absolutely toasted for suggesting is having a guy who knows how to cut film just cut that ugliness off lol, just keep in mind that film that is stretched is much easier to cut so ease up on the pressure. Hope that helps! Good luck!
  13. FYI I apologize for the accidental double post, if someone knows how to delete one let me know thanks!
  14. I'm used to using straight water with suntek and can apply door handles like vinyl wrap and get instantaneous tack. However, when I tried to apply xpel ultimate plus with straight water, I had to wait and use a heat gun to apply the door handle, what solution do you guys use on slower setting adhesive films? Thanks
  15. I'm used to using straight water with suntek and can apply door handles like vinyl wrap and get instantaneous tack. However, when I tried to apply xpel ultimate plus with straight water, I had to wait and use a heat gun to apply the door handle, what solution do you guys use on slower setting adhesive films? Thanks