NZTNT1

All good advice here. I try to do as much of my clean up dry as possible. These are the extra steps I take

• cut around the the putty edge first and the dry scrape the glass up to the frame
• brush loose all the crap off the frames with a dry stiff nylon brush
• then vacuum the frames and surrounding areas
• wet scrape glass, squeggee and dry frames with paper towel

from that point on it's a normal install however I do use a peel panel and really wet the adhesive and avoid wetting the glass.

I hope this helps you and anyone else that has challenges with frames like this

Most Architects I work with accept Metamark M4 or M7 as acceptable replacements.

I am also aware of other installers reboxing it in 3M cartons and the architects, builders and clients not knowing the difference.

Not ethical but not surprising either.

Wow 40 views and zero responses. Maybe members can't be bothered responding, don't actually know or want to share. 

My business is installing high end residential/commercial flat glass solarfilm and security film and with that I have alot of variety in pane sizes.

The software I use is a subscription based package called Optimalon this helps me produce cutting plans very quickly and with a wastage factor of often less than 10%.

For cutting I have 60" & 72" wall mounted film handlers which can be ladder mounted for on site cutting.

If it is a large safety film contract I like to cut onsite and cut the film exact and install with zero trim which makes for very fast installing.

PM me if you'd like to see a pdf of a cutting plan.

Can someone provide a info on the

state of the Low E film market in North America and internationally?

In New Zealand we have had Enerlogic, Ecolux, Thinsulate & Penjerex.

I'm fairly certain that Penjerex is no longer manufactured and have seen some very nasty hardcoat / low-e coating failures. There have also been rumours that Enerlogic is no longer being produced.

Thinsulate was having hardcoat issues which I experienced with it being damaged by masking tape and omnichrome wax pencils has that been resolved.

And that only leaves Ecolux which I have most experience with and haven't had any challenges apart from drying which was my fault using wrong squegees and not doing an extra pass.

Seeing the bigger picture and hearing other installers experiences would be great

There was a research paper done by the IWFA that solidly refuted the idea that film causes seal failure. The physics given the volume of air and heat gain with that film preclude film as a cause. Besides IGU's fail regularly any without film.

Not sure I've used this technique removing failed external silver20 on a conservatory roof and it worked well. The pole I used was about 10ft with a heavy duty triumph scraper. I also used a corny keg and a lot of slip and scraper blades

My hesitation is because anti graffiti is quite thick and gets brittle with age but it does have a ps adhesive and so it cleans up well.

All the best with this work.

On 5/5/2019 at 10:49 AM, Guest Tint 999 said:

Hi Tint Eastwood,

 

Thanks for your reply. Yes it works on PS great as I removed a back van window auto film once with an old electric jug steam.

 

Problem I have here is often the new I.G. units fitted locally have rough side on #4, we're talking alloy frames, but suspect the steaming might be pretty slow, and if removing aged baked on DA unsure if steaming would do it.....and the flat glass films that usually best suit the needs of the customer being that of I.G. units are Dual Reflective DA. I often wonder why adhesives need to be quite as good, as replacement is eventually necessary!

 

I am doing myself out of work explaining the future risks to customers of potential scratch risk if some or all of the glass is rough side #4 upon the need to remove later.....

 

I don't want to get into a durability debate on here, but in my experience in residential installations in an area with high annual sunshine hrs, if a good quality glazing film generally does around 10 yrs before showing signs of any degradation then it has done ok, and this is the reason I am reluctant to just go ahead and install on rough side in many situations because it will be me facing removal at some stage.

 

However, if I can find a practical method of removing off rough side without risk of scratch damage then there is no issue, plus it may help others here as well, as I believe this to be a common thing outside my own area in other parts of the world as glass manufacturers obviously do not seem to be concerned about glass orientation on the make up of I.G. units.

 

Given we know it's is not the blade itself but the blade knocking off the tip of the rough glass surface and being dragged along the glass surface that causes the scratching, An idea I thought of was to make up a low volume high pressure water spray fitted in such a way that is sprays onto the leading edge of a triumph blade with the theory being that it kept fine glass fragments away, however this is negated by the likely build up of adhesive on the blade during removal also trapping glass fragments.....

 

Anyone's input greatly appreciated.

I'm with you on this GT999

I have a house load fo stripping dry adhesive on toughened glass coming my way.

It's a strange possible delamination issue the manufacturer has accepted as a warranty claim.

What I would be interested to know is the difference between CDA and CDF. Is one a detackified ps and therefore a steamer may work or are they both different beasts altogether?

Have lots of Ryobi One tools. But when I saw these couldn't get to the checkout fast enough. Great for when your corny is down to 20psi and your on L12 of a building

Just buy new from Filmhandler best investment you can make. I have a 60" been using for 25+ years and a 72" I bought 5 years ago for a large AG  install.

Both paid for themselves many times over with speed, accuracy, and lower wastage. Also have setup a bracket mounting system to work on a multi fold ladder so I can do 3.0m drops onsite. Useful to avoid tunneling/spears on 175 micron Anti graffiti.

You need to use a film with a peelable adhesive such as anti graffiti or failing that increase the soap in your slip solution. Maybe a bit of trial and error but no technical reason it shouldn't work.

I've just had a client message me that he still has water bubbles on a Thinsulate install. The job was completed approx 6 weeks ago. He had called me a week after the install commenting on the bubbles and I suggested waiting a month. What concerns me is that I had given the film an overlapping double pass with a orange crush and don't normally have any bubbles.

Has any one else had drying issues with Thinsulate?