mobiledynamics

For my wiki, what is the correct terminology I am observing Ceramic Back Glass , looking direct from Drivers Seat - Polarized Sunglasses - everything is clear Ceramic Back Glass, looking at rear view mirror, Polarizied Sunglasses What I see is a diamond-eqsue pattern of greens/reds/and a smidge of yellow/oranish patterns across the whole film. I'm sure there is a tint - technical word for what I am seeing. Be curious what is it.

Just finished testing - pulled the car out of garage. With sunshade on, with new 70% ceramic. Been sitting in the sun for 4-5 hours. The dash still felt -hot-. Not typical burning hot with no sunshade feel, but -quite hot-. Dunno if we going to call that heat soak from overall chassis, and or also as you mentioned, byproduct of heat coming past film, sunshade, etc.

TintGuy - Goggled VKool re: your last remark on the OE/OEM supplier for the -comfort glass- Unless there website is inaccurate, doesn't look like they have a US presence out here. Unless something has changed, AFAIk, the current market offerings on similar -colorways- when viewing from the outside is Chameleon Tint/Ultravision. I've been in 2 cars myself with it and the color **inside** Is not pleasing at all. It's not neutral looking one. One had a very strong yellow color spectrum when looking out.

It's been a decade+ since I've had Crystalline. What I didn't like was the color of their film. As well, in the 2 cars in which I've had it , it was a bit haze in certain lighting conditions. Excellent remark on " A friend learned that by having a (high absorption) ceramic film on his windshield of his truck. He was baking while driving with AC and eventially removed the film." Wouldn't this be the same with a typical metal film for a windsheild , difference being the heat is not stopped at the film level but it's just absorbing through it ? This would be the 1st windshield tint I've had had versus factory -comfort- glass so no much experience in this wheelhouse.

1st tinted windshield ever.70%. In past cars, it's come from the factory with tint/film between the glass. Wild guess is metallized tint. Has the cutouts above the mirror and down below center on the dash for transponders, radar, etc. When looking at it from outside, it also gave off this nice chameleon look.... Never did windshield as stickers are annoying - yearly here. Anyhow, WOW. I can definitely tell the difference in heat while driving with ceramic windshield. I did let it also the car sit outside for a short bit. The dash does get a smidge hotter, so I probably will still opt to use the sunshade for when it's parked street side in full sun when out and about.

I have no vested interest in selling or installing PPF. My response was simply just as posted. As the party who has paid the small or big bucks for the ppf install, it does not increase the sale value in how I would sell it - trade in, caravana, etc. PPF falls into the category of MODS for me. It only brings value to a specific buyer

We've gone full round circle on this😄. There is no value for the party who has paid to have it installed. For how I sell my vehicles, the party who has paid for a full wrap, said party is never going to recoup a cent of that towards the Selling of the vehicle on how I generally sell the cars. As a seller, with a 9K Wrap on my vehicle, I will never get anything towards PPF on when selling to Dealer, Carmax, Carvana, Vroom, etc. In a private sale, yes, it may help but more often a used buyer will be looking for a car in particular color , trim, option, etc. PPF would be on the bottom of the tick box of things to choose when it came down to a particular chosen vehicle.

Dealers IME don't care about things like this. It just goes by book. I generally trade as there is a tax benefit going this route and have them match if Carmax , etc is going to give me a higher rate. But even as such, a 9K full wrap PPF ain't going to bring the value more than book. I've seen cars with 10-15K mods under the hood. Dealers don't even have a clue. They just go by book.... Obviously whomever may buy the used car would be in for a treat...with the mods. I pointed it out that in the private market, it may net some benefit. Some, but that would be to a specific buyer... Just speaking from a consumer POV You may be looking at this from a trade-pro-dealer level....

FWIW, add value comment - no ppf, normal driving chips on leases don't negate on turn in. On trade in, ppf does not add value to it. PPF like all car*mods*, only is value to the owner itself. And or a private buyer who may see the value of what if offers

Appreciate the real world feedback. I've gotten over my fury on discovering the cut and swearing off PPF. As a matter of fact, new car's been at the shop getting Full PPF as such. Water based paint just sucks these days.....and I like the self healing aspect. Got kiddo's . Marring on clear coat happens. OCD detail nut here. I like how the film keeps things - mar free-.It doesn't add any value on resell but the value is there for me at least for whatever the term of ownership is

Since Dano brought up cut paint, dare I ask How often in confidence have you cut paint and hid it......or unknowilling hid it. In the world of PPF or Vinyl Wrap My previous shop (who generally has a few million in car worth @ the shop) - one time I removed PPF and found a cut. Masked by the PPF. A simple analogy would be take a scratch iPhone screen, buy a $10 glass protector on it, and all those scratches go away. Since discovering the cut (even from a high end shop), I swore off PPF for quite a bit of years.... Anyhow, be curious on the topic of cut paint and what fellow tradesmen on the board say...whether it happens in installs and sometimes you don't even know till you lift up the paint/wrap....

Different Market, different circles I suppose. I have not see a partial on a hood in like ages.... Granted, I can see if doing a partial on a door to protect the lower 1/3, etc - where the film will meet a body line, ridge, trim, etc.

Are hood strips done these days....Partial's are so 3M Ventureshield 2000's.... But again, I speak as a enthusiast. IMO, the market segment is - Full front - Full Front + Rockers Or simply just Full Wrap.

Off topic or on re: the other thread on Exploding Moonroofs. I went with 50% XR Prime.....the solar energy absorbance seemed *low enough* that it would still allow some heat through and heat soak the glass... With that said, just short of the sunroof getting heat soaked in the sun.........since you brink up water shock. Don't think a passing shower or immediate thunderstorm might -shock- the sunroof on a heat soaked summer day. However, a car was -might- ? Eh, just posting for discussion sake

Not a Pro but just a enthusiast about all things cars. Mobile Tints I can see as a feasible option Have you considered subbing as a installer out of a shop. GOOD PPF is acquired skill IMO. Same goes for coatings. You need to polish out all the defects before you crack open a coating bottle. The paint should be flawless before then... Ceramic coating or PPF requires a roof under you if not a roof+ enclosed space..... Some level of polishing to remove defects before install on both film and coating CLEAN, ultra clean surfaces Clean environment for install Ceramic Coatings generally need to be indoors for at least 24 hrs during the cure (I'm well aware the 3M is a 4hr cure) but most car nerds/enthusiast on the market don't normally look for a **3M Coater** Dust/Contaminants will always be a issue for the mobile environment.

I just ordered some clear static vinyl of Amazon. Eh, we'll see. Look like it might do the trick. Good point about mentioning the scratch coat. I'll be sure than when I need to remove it annually, regardless if the -easy static cling - does work, I will heat up the exterior of that spot with a heat gun or steamer, just to minimize peel/pull of the scratch coat.

Just doing a brief search on Amazon...alot of Chicom stuff.... What do the pro's use/ recommend when sticking stickers onto tinted windshield. Out here it's a inspection sticker yearly and reg biyearly. Any recommend products to use that is like -Saran Wrap- on tinted windshield but will actually remain -stuck- on

Off topic or on topic. Recently someone went to a reputable tint shop on his 130K plus new ride. The installer tinted it 3X. 1st redo and then a second redo. Between removal, or tinting or both....the leather door card (presuming not protected), it was so damaged *leather delam from card*, the shop owner ended up replacing the door card at $2300 for the new door card. I think MSRP was $2800 It's stories like these (cuts) or excessive slip, steam liquids, etc - kinda makes you weary sometimes on not the "shop" doing the work but ultimately the installer assigned to the task. Even when f'ups happen and a repair is required (whether it be glass or upholstery), it's never the same as the same -stock- material that came on the car.

Since this is a recent thread on topic, I might as well ask. it's 2022...... is plot cutting considered a superior method over freehand cutting these days, and hand cut only for specific instances when given both options? Plot cut for a shop = productivity but does freehand still produce a better finished product (albeit you need a skilled man using a blade). I know a decade back+++while plots existed, the POV was the freehand was always superior. Lotsa shops I know if not even my tinter is using plots these das I know the plot cuts have tolerance you can + material but on the last few plot tint jobs I've had installed, I don't see them shaving to the edge and then doing the file...

Regular film transfers whatever heat through the film/glass The ceramics AKAIK, basically *stop the heat* from transmitting past the film, so what you get is a heat soak/heat buildup of the glass itself (aka, it get's hotter than regular tint). In looking at the specs of each %, the darker you go, the #s for Solar Energy Absorbance go up. --I think if I stay with 70 or 50% on ceramic for the sunroof, it's still allowing some level of heat to still pass through the film - and not absorb/block it as much as if I started going up on the higher percentages.

Just doing some homework... Windshield to be tinted on Xpel XR or XR Plus 70% Will this be efficient enough that I won't need to use a SunShade when parked outdoors in direct sun. The dashboard is leather so the goal is to keep as much heat off the dashboard as possible when in the sun. However, tint scratches....and in using the SunShade, I know it will -rub- when putting it on/etc. Second question. Leaning on tinting my Panorama Sunroom in XR or XR Plus 50% Because of how ceramic tint works, basically blocks the heat from coming in, but the glass get's *hot, hotter* due to how the tint works. Is this a concern for the -common sunroof exploding- And or since 50 or 70% has a solar energy absorbance of around 58-65%, this should not be a concern by tinting the sunroof ?