Exact-Oh

Viper is a DEI unit, and DEI makes the best quality alarms IMO. AST also makes high quality units, like Ultra-Start brand. If you spent that much on audio, what's a couple hundred extra for a good alarm system?

Nothing on the unit is responding now, or just the trunk switch?

I have installed these units and haven't had any issues with the batteries in them. I have a customer here who had his unit installed two months ago, he just replaced his factory battery for the first time two days ago with a Duracell, and he still has all the bars showing for battery strength. If he has problems in the near future, I will post them here.

Make sure that you don't have a button stuck or something.

I am not familiar with that particular unit, but all of the professional models that I have installed in my past have a programmable starter engagement time. Just ask the installer where you had it done and I am sure they will help you out.

Yeah, that's what I initially thought after reading some of the threads years in the last couple of years. That's exactly why I wanted to ask here before buying anything, thanks.

I am going to ask a friend who has been into cutting vinyl exclusively for race cars for the past ten years. Maybe he has a used unit he'll sell me. I am really just looking to play around to start out with.

I am considering the purchase of a plotter... just a small one, probably 24". I have been getting into custom tint jobs a lot and I am interested in getting away from hand cutting the designs. I am also sick of waiting two weeks from my local sign shop for custom cut vinyl for my customers.

There is a 24"er on E-Bay that comes as a package with software, stand, and one blade. This one is listed for $700. For those of you who have experience with computer cutting film and vinyl, is there a preferred brand of plotter, software, or replacement blades? What is your opinion on the one listed here?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...3879638622&rd=1

Oh, oops. I guess I missed that one.

Consider what you described about the car staying running if you remove the key after pinging the remote starter, it sounds as though your anti-theft security bypass system is not working correctly.

With the key in the ignition, this system is not needed, 'cause the transponder is right where it's suppose to be. Try this... just put the key in the ignition, with the engine off, and try to start it remotely. If it starts, that's probably where your problem is.

Yeah, I have seen many times where the wires between the body and the doors are damaged, especially in Fords. Use an ohmmeter to check for damage.

I used to use a bunch of moving blankets (left over from the Budget purchase of Ryder trucks) to protect interiors from slip solution, glue, wet shoes, etc., but now I use them a lot less often. I have constantly been working on ways to avoid their use and save a bunch of time in the process.

Sh*t, I remember a time when I used to have a blanket on every rear deck while doing a back glass. I don't know what I was thinking... just one more thing to get in the way. I guess I was really concerned about the slip agent damaging the interior.

For me, I have it all working and running fine. If I did more flat glass jobs, then I would definitely consider adding quoting for that, but I would probably just add it to my VBA version running under Access.

OT, the current version of my software already has subs written to change pricing. It takes about 30 seconds to change them, and can be done as each invoice is created.

I have also considered writing in subs to make it simple to cut the film necessary off the roll, before I even pull the vehicle into the shop. I know this is way out there, but it would save a little time in the summer and I have two cars waiting outside. I have 35% on the handler now, and I can cut the pieces needed for the next job before changing over to the 50%, for example.

Slow week for tips, so try this one...

To control the snot created by most glues during removal, I start peeling the film off at the top of the glass, until all of the film is peeled except for the bottom inch. This way, you can leave the peeled portion of film lying on the panel underneath the window while removing most of the glue. This protects the panel from the glue, and whatever liquid you are using for removal. Then do the bottom one inch last, making clean up a bunch easier.

Of course, this won't work on cheap film that comes off in little pieces.

I have had some interest in the past, and I would like to help out when I can, but I am not going to re-write my auto-tint software if I don't get enough interest in it.

Currently, it works fine for what I am doing, and I use it probably 20 times per day. The problem is, it is written in VBA, and therefore it only works if the computer has Microsoft Access '97 or above. I have had some interest in transferring it over to straight VB. I have a lot of experience in VB, so it would not be a problem technically, only the time involved would be about 70 to 100 hours.

I even have considered writing it to mold with QuickBooks, so you could start the invoice on my software and transfer the invoice directly over to QB, for business management purposes.

I have also considered writing in subs for flat-glass estimating. I only do about five flat glass jobs per year, but if estimating them is pretty much the same as it was 15 years ago, it would be a snap to add it to this program.

I wanted to post this here, so I don't have every hack out there trying it out, and I am not as interested in helping out people who aren't helping me out in return, as you all have over the years here.

Please give me some feedback as to whether re-writing this is going to be a good idea, and helpful to anyone, or a waste of my time. Thanks.

Cool stuff, if ya want to draw attention I guess.

Bulldog's reputation is not too good, depending on the model of the unit you installed. I haven't seen too many quality issues with the pro-series units, but the cheapy units of the shelf at Wal-Mart are no good. If you know that you have your brake light (+) wire hooked up correctly, I would swap out the unit with a new one and try it again.

This is a great resource. They answer a lot of questions about opening and maintaining a small business. If you are in need of a specific detail, they have poeple with experience helping out with issues directly.

I used them last year at this time when a company selling internet advertising as a business resource (like Thomas Register) edited a phone recording, then claimed that I signed up for this $500 service. They helped me beat this allegation, and I didn't spend a dollar!

In my opinion, a remote starter was the best install that I have added to my personal vehicle, since the tint.

I do not recommend anyone to install this on their own if they do not have experience. Most of the problems and troubleshooting you see posted here, are from DIYers.

Install cost will be determined by the model of car you have and the number of options you have installed with it, keyless entry, alarm, etc.

I do not suggest purchasing a unit on-line. There are a number of 'look-a-likes' out there that do not have the quality you will get if purchasing a unit from a professional installer. The highest quality units are not available for direct consumer purchase.

You will need one 12V/30A relay for the dual starter wires. If you are doing a alarm remote-start combo, you will need four 150 ohm and four 560 ohm low current resistors, and eight low current diodes, all for the keyless entry alarm functions. If you are only doing remote start/keyless entry, then you only need one 150 ohm and 560 ohm resistor, and two diodes (diodes optional but suggested on this install).

If I get some time in the next couple of days, I will put together a vehicle specific diagram for you, although my business is going crazy right now.

Cool, I was already impressed by the excellent customer service and a person I could understand answering the phone there. Thanks for the info.

Driver's Door PUR (-) - pin 6

Passenger Door PUR/WHT (-) - pin 7

Left Rear Door - PUR/GRY (-) - pin 4

Right Rear Door - PUR/YEL (-) - pin 5

All four wire must be wired when installing an alarm. Also, you must diode isolate all four wires.

I wouldn't suggest doing this one, starter or alarm, if you are not a professional installer. With all the special resistor values needed for the lock/unlock and double starter wires, it is a bit more difficult than the average job. Also, if doing an alarm system, each door lock must be interfaced seperately and diode isolated.

If the vehicle has a grey ignition key, you have to bypass the anti-theft security. If it has a black key, this isn't a problem.

At ignition switch:

+12 V lt. blu/red

Start pnk/org (+) & pur/brn (-)*

IGN1 pnk/grn (+)

ACC pur/brn*

Brake wht/tan or wht/grn at brake light switch

Tach any wire but red/tan or dk grn/lt grn at coil

Horn dk grn/org at horn

Lock pur/dk grn (-) through 330 ohm kick

Unlock same as lock though 100 ohm driver's kick

Trunk org/pur (-) driver's kick

*must use an aux. relay for the start function. The second start wire is ground through a 150 ohm resistor. The accessory wire is the same, but through a 560 ohm resistor. Resistors must be used for the single wire lock/unlock.

If you are doing an alarm, let me know and I will post info on each individual door lock wire color.

I have been dealing with an o.k. distributor for audio components, but I am looking for a new distributor that can deliver parts quickly and quick quotes on the products.

I do get rather ticked when I call for quotes, and I just get "we don't carry that model anymore". Yes, I know I have the 2004 catalog, but give me the price on comparable equipment from the '05 catalog then!

I just need a full service audio/video distributor that I can trust to get me components in a timely manner, and hopefully have a line-card consisting of enough brands to cover most of my customer's needs.

Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.

The new advertising for some of the models out in '05 is pushing factory installed remote start systems. The automakers are again trying to take business from the aftermarket installers, just like the SUV/Mini-van/X-cab truck glass tinting from the factory in the '90s.

If they limit it to only a couple of models, I am inclined to consider this as advertising for the function of the remote-starters, hopefully increasing business for us aftermarket installers. But, if they increase this option to more of their models, I feel it will hurt us more than help us. After all, when's the last time you tinted an entire mini-van or SUV?

Is your truck a manual trans?