locus
-
Posts
7 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Subscriptions
Posts posted by locus
-
-
15 hours ago, DynamicATL said:
First question is where are you buying Crystalline from without being a shop meeting the minimum requirements? Or are you buying that fake Chinese stuff on eBay?
I do PPF and do carry 3M PPF films and recently purchased opening order with 3M window films. Well I didn't know ebay films are fake Chinese films. I've seen some PPF films selling for below my cost lol. Just you know I only get 3M films from 3M distributor and Xpel films directly from Xpel.
8 hours ago, smookee408@yahoo.com said:I use to do them dry just like the back glass. I would use a dryer sheet and make an upside down u anchor. At the outside edge of the U I would tape down. Then with two heat gun blow air under and shrink with another gun from the top of the upside down U. It’s the Ryk method on side windows. Same with backglass I’ll break it down it four quadrants and tape it down and use two heat guns. CR like being shrunk like this. Second best method would be same technique but after blowing hot air into the U you lock down the bottom to seal in the hot air and shrink from the top down. Aka pocket shrinking. Hopefully you can imagine all this in your head. Lol
Thank you for detail information. I do your second best method for the windshield but never have done using 2 heat guns method. I've watched some youtube and only have seen windshield installation but not side windows.
-
I'm new to tint world and recently worked on some cars including my own, friends' & family cars.
I've done a couple of windshields using crystalline but never got to do the side windows.
How do you shrink the side windows? wet shrink like most of other windows? or do similar to windshield method? Dry shrink/ lock bottom and use felt squeegee method?
Also, I'm planning to do Model 3 soon and I heard rear glass needs 60 inch roll but also front windshield needs 60 inch or 40 inch should be enough?
Greatly appreciated!
-
I've been looking for a training but I can't find anywhere local.
I can drive few hundred more miles so MD/VA area works for me.
I'd like to learn 100% hand cut as well as pre-cut (software) work.
Thank you in advance
-
3 minutes ago, DynamicATL said:
Your best route will be Express, Global, or SolarFX. All solid films that are not hard to install and won't hurt the bank. They are great films to start with and many tinters stick with them.
Thank you for your info.
I'm also considering a tint business and looking for training and I found both 3M and XPEL offer training so I thought about getting their films and their training.
I'll look for training on those brands you recommended. By any chance you know training info on those brands? Thank you in advance -
14 hours ago, DynamicATL said:
It is also going to be the worst film to train on since it is more difficult and more expensive. There are plenty of dealers that have been tinting for years that still can't install 3M's higher performing films. Also when trying different films, different techniques/tools are needed. So if you get "Certified" on one, you might have to completely switch it up on another brand.
Just curious, what other brand films are easier to install?
I'm also looking for a training and don't want to purchase films that are difficult to install.
-
I'm in the same boat, how about windshield? I'll probably pick up 36" or 40" but also looking to do windshield.
What size do you use for windshield? I guess 60" ? I can choose from 90% & 70%. I will probably go with 70% for now.
Porsche hood emblem and parking sensor cut out
in Paint Protection Film, Clear Bra Forum
Posted
I see some installers leave Porsche hood emblem and wrap the hood.
Not sure if they cut out the emblem (thin hood emblem not the thick ones) later on.
I always remove the emblems before install and put it back with 3m double tapes (if they are not speed nut type).
But I see some installer leave the emblems and do the install. Is this something most installer do?
For Corvette C7 Grand sport, there are decals on both front fenders from factory, I remove them and wrap the fenders then put brand new decals back.
I see some of them just wrap the fenders without removing the decals.
Is this how most of you do? I'm sure there will be some air pocket/gap around decals.
Or do they relieve cut around decals to prevent getting air gap?
Also, some installer leave Parking sensor PDC covered with PPF. Doesn't it also leave some air gap around the sensors?
I always cut out the sensors but not as perfect as precut cut out. I have pdc sensor cut out die but just curious how others do? any suggestions or tips?
Thanks