bpbv6-6

Hi guys, so i've been in autobody, auto tint and just about everything exterior for cars the past 10 years and I would like to switch to residential/commercial. How can I start and what is it I need to learn to gain clients?

Just wondering, I have the same q42 plotter as you. Have you used it for ppf and does it work fine for that size? I know how to install PPF but not sure what is the most common size roll installers use for a front end of a vehicle. Will the q42 be a good size to plot ppf or do I need bigger?

well thats not going to be able to cut back windows or larger side windows

if you want the best its not gonna make a big difference at all...

my supplier cant even get anymore avery dennison films at the moment. im stuck with cheap crap on brand name from them

should be

On 7/11/2020 at 12:38 PM, csixer66 said:

I just started tinting about a year ago. Im doing family, friends and small customer base and have done them ALL for free as Im not confident in my skills to charge. I have all my tools and I use Global, Solar FX, and Express Films classic black for the free jobs. I can shrink, install with no bubbles or fingers. 

 

Debris is another thing I struggle with. Sometimes its a month later and all these bubbles and debris mounds pop up. I clean and clean and clean. Not sure what Im doing wrong here. I use tint slime and distilled water. 

 

I struggle with my hand cutting side roll down windows and also debris. Every time I mess a job up I get super discouraged and get down on myself. How many professionals here started out like this that at one point thought you couldnt do it and should stop trying. To them become a professional with your own shop?

 

starting out is going to do this to you. When I started out my business I was really really afraid as I had no type of guidance from anyone. Its a great thing you're learning all these mistakes while providing the jobs for free because you're going to learn alot. It'll def mentally tear you down but try again and again until you figure it out. 

I went through the exact same issues as you and recently after about 8 months figured out what works best for me. I was using scrub pads but that didn't work. I went back to using a razor to scrape because it can easily get into the rubber seals and scrape away the contamination. Spray down the windows a couple times after scraping, wipe the outside rims of the rubber seals and along the top of the plastic door moldings. Back window use a scrubby pad or steel wool 000 or 0000, never razor as it removes the defrost lines...try that out and youll have clean installs. Trust me I had a few redos and finally decided to change my methods a little bit and its worked out well. Business is busy after close to a year but I didnt really market myself until after 5 months. Also, just stick with johnston's baby shampoo and water. I stopped using slip solutions. It'll save you money.

I use a blue max, go over the film twice, then wrap the black hard card with blue paper towel for one last pass. Thats what I learned from madico trainer.

On 6/4/2020 at 6:33 AM, Tint Slayer said:

Are you saying it won't stick to the glass after install?

just the sides most of the time even though the film is fully shrunk, theres certain peanuts that appear. When I heat shrink with dryer sheets, I tack own the film in a H pattern. Any suggestions? not sure what causes this. Only happens on hatches for me and its getting really irritating.

what about bluish or purple hue?

4 minutes ago, TintDude said:

 

Give their money back and send them on their way, then hope they don't blame you for everything they find wrong with the car for the next year.

i had that happen the past few times with model 3 clients.. their chrome pieces sometimes have scratches but i dont go anywhere near their chrome, No knife on their vehicle as my shop has a plotter. One client the other day came asked me to take her tint off and refund because there were a few dust dots, I redid her tint 3 times, and it is on the same window. In the end she said she wants money back so she can have tint done at another tint shop. She msged me after a few days and showed a picture of melted rubber molding on her quarter window after the new tint job and her rear window wiper plastic cover piece missing. Another guy I redid his q50s twice because of a small line of dust in the rubber seals that causes the same line to keep popping up, eventually he asked if I refund the money in full but its up to him if he wants to remove the film or not.

anyone know what brand has a more brown color to the film? Ive seen a few cars that have that 35% brown tint and it looks classy.

what do you tell them if its over and over again, contamination on their windows, no matter how many times you cleaned it?

can i grab one from you please? I live in vancouver canada, how much is shipping here?

this question will be useful for OP as well. What is the best way to apply film and shrink on hatchbacks? ive been having issues lately with vw GTis and maz 3 hatchbacks. Im shrinking normally as I would on other cars but for some reason hatches are my weakness. I do the normal H pattern using dryer sheets. The ends of the windows and defrost lines just wont tack up!

3 hours ago, smookee408@yahoo.com said:

This is not car wrapping. Felt installed on the sweeps. 

I use the thick felt cards for shrinking windows as well. Never used felt before for sweeps so I dont know what you mean by that so I want to learn. Thanks!

all looks like beautiful work man. I am starting to get into commercial and residential films as well. Any tips to start off? How do I charge for pricing? Should I stick with one type of service or do both for autos and housing? which one would be more fluid for work? I have a shop now for auto but slow season will probably come during winter even though I do detailing/wraps and paint repairs as well.

On 6/1/2020 at 2:43 PM, civicrice said:

is that suntek?

how much do you charge for something like that?

40 minutes ago, pbalentine said:

Steel won’t cut it with theses. I use 1500 grit and sand horizontally. 

will it scratch the windows or damage the defrost lines at all? do you clean it down again after with the scrub pad and water/soap? How long do I sand for until I know its good?

shouldnt it be the username in the cd box and they should have emailed you the rest of the info

not jacking thread but i've been getting micro bubbles in some of my jobs lately. I use a blue max. What is a more effective squeegee to use to remove maximum water?

On 5/24/2020 at 9:01 AM, smookee408@yahoo.com said:

That needs to be redone. Your S5 also needs felt installed to prevent scratches. From my POV it dosnt look like it was installed. 

 a felt squeegee when shrinking?

Hi guys, I need some help here. Its always been model 3s that I have trouble with tacking down the film on the back windows. They dont appear until a few hours after installation. Sometimes there are peanuts here and there but not as much today when i used #0000 steel wool and scrubby pad. I turned the defroster on to help but still not working. No matter how hard I push out the water bubbles with squeegee multiple times, they still come back. I use dry shrinking method . I've done other model 3s the same routine/procedures as I am now and they never had issues. Maybe it could be the film im using that's not sticky enough? I am using aswf and scorpion. I was using Avery and DUB R before but my supplier is out of stock. 

Do you guys mind posting your own step by step process beginning to end before tinting process? (how you clean windows, spray down, etc...) thank you!

This is the second model 3 coming back for a fix this past two weeks. I am beginning to think I should stop accepting model 3s

Hi guys, how long does it take a novice to intermediate tinter to install the film? I dont konw what im doing wrong. Before I installed on a dodge caravan or a jeep cherokee in 40mins each. Now any car, im taking 1-6 hours. What the heck am i doing wrong and how can I adjust to improve to make more profit?

It would be great if you list the steps of what you do while approaching the vehicle and pictures of your tools/equipment beside you. My work area is a mess, i barely use an apron to carry my tools so theyre scatttered and always have to waste time looking. Also how do you make or buy those film roll holders to place on the walls so I dont have to open a tint box everytime?

THANKS!

Hey guys, so I couldnt handle my bodyshop job anymore. quit on monday and have my tinting, detailing, wrap business open. Whats the best way to gain clients fast? I have all the supplies, materials, permits ready to go.

On 6/20/2018 at 5:57 PM, CaliTINT said:

You really just have to get your feet wet. As a (learning) tinter, you are going to come across lots of vehicles that take a different approach to it. You need to be resourceful, think outside the box, analyze and execute certain techniques. Also with cars you aren't sure of, just simply look it up on this forum and/or on youtube. Usually someone has discussed it or made a video on it. 

 

Hell I was working on a car today that I have done plenty of (but not enough of them lately). I kinda forgot my procedure on it and ended up redoing the back window 3 times before getting it right. In the end, I just analyzed the glass, etc. and came up with a solution. Also checked up on the forums for tips and its done. 

without my trainer beside me i lose focus and panic and forget my steps he taught me. Rear windows are way easier. For roll up windows, I only need to pull film down for tuck and to the side when cutting only if the window shfits right? if its just a window that goes down and up and doesnt shift then just leave enough slack at the bottom only  for tuck correct?