parttimer

This doesn't sound wise.  What is the reason you'd want to?

There are several film companies out there. Each installer has their preference. I install 3m, I've used xpel, flexi, llumar and premium shield. The end goal is protection, is their a best? Is their a best car wash soap, best wax, best ceramic coat? Bottom line pick an installer go with their product.

You're talking the gravel guard areas on the rocker? I did one, turned out ok, some minor air spots but you could hardly tell. Been 6 months and I've not heard back.

What's the weather been like, has the adhesive had time to dry? I tell people 30-60 days to get everything dried out.

I've used 3m and premium shield on coated cars, both were coated over a year before film. Premium shield was applied over gtech and 3m over IGL. Both lifted within 6 weeks time. Prep was 3m wax and grease wipe and IPA wipe.

I did it last week and it went well.

I watched a video where they used a section of ppf under what they were going to cut.

Ok, that is my plan. Just let them know I couldn't see all the issues until after it was laid down. I can do a full detail, I'm just worried about breaking it to them.

I've been working on a Mazda CX-5 doing full hood, fenders and bumper.  The first fender I did there were lots of tiny dots showing through the film.  First thought was contamination in the film, but they didn't move when I moved the film.  But I tried a new piece anyway.  Same issue.  I then used a synthetic clay to clay the hell out of the fender, most of the spots remained however it was significantly better.  Moving on to the remainder of the panels, I had this happen EVERYWHERE I put film.  I spent about 3 hours using the medium grade synthetic clay towel on the whole front clip and had spots show all over.  I'm assuming it's just paint issues since it's multiple sections of film from different rolls.  Any ideas on how to break it to the customer that their pant has lots contaminates not seen until filmed?

Just one example of many. You don't get the warranty if you install it yourself.

Ever check Ebay, Amazon or any other places? It was even discussed in factory training that it's another way to get revenue.

I had a customer buy a full hood, fender and grill kit from me. They tried working it themselves, guess where it is now.... sitting in my garage. I had to peal off the film and started over last night.

I purchased a B roll a few months back. Great ability to be re-lifted, good stretch and clarity.

That is an option from Toyota, and if it's anything like the dealer near me, installed by some body shop guy. The price they charge per panel is ridiculous. I'd find one without the film and pay a PPF shop to install a brand.

A friend at a dealer just asked me about this model.

I wish, I tried 4 times on my charger hood. Some said steam some said heat, some said gel. If you figure it out, please share so I can pull the bikini piece off. I tried both flexishield and 3m.

Most software I've used, you need their program to open the cuts. And only registered software allows the download top keep off line. So you have to have registered software to download the patterns, and only that pattern software can open the pattern.

17 hours ago, k1k1 said:

Hi 

Can we use your cutting software without buying your film ?

We can buying code ?

 

Nico

Nope, I paid the $500 for the product only to find out you have to buy the film.  

Waxing before is a negative.  You should be panel wiping before any installation.  By waxing you put a layer of something between the adhesive and the bare paint.