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Bham

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  • Gender
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    I only seem smart, I'm actually an idiot in real life
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    AL
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    United States

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  1. Whew. I am worn out. My "new to me" truck DOES NOT have the “easy to shrink” windshield.
  2. Take those stupid spoiler guards off, jeez. Stupid!! Just stupid.
  3. Adding the Global 70% ceramic to a factory 20% tinted glass would be RATHER beneficial as far as heat rejection, without making it any darker. The 70% ceramic from Global performs amazingly, granted the color could be a little better, but I will overlook that part for the amount of IR and heat rejection you get out of such a clear-ish film. I recommend this shade all the time to my senior customers who don't want to go any darker but complain about the heat.
  4. Yes it it different. The only vehicle that I know of that comes with a 30% factory glass is Toyota Tacoma and 4Runner. I have yet to see a Hyundai or Kia with anything other than a 20% factory glass. Just like all the other mannies, their factory glass is somewhere around a 20%. The fact you said your factory rear glass was a 30% is odd to me. Just sayin... Also - IF? your rear glass is a factory 30% and you put 40% on the front two doors, at this point you are only about 5 maybe 7 percentage points different. Factory clear glass with Global 40% on it usually meters at around 32% and that 70% ceramic added to the rear if it is 30% would only change take that down to about 22-25%. If all of this is correct this is what your pictures look like to me. The color or hue problem is due the factory glass color. There in not one single film out there that matches factory glass color perfectly when added to the factory "green glass" on the front two doors. The factory rear glass is always a little different in color or hue. another thing is that all factory "green glass" on the front two doors is a different color or hue from manny to manny. Hell, Toyota 4Runner factory front doors are almost yellow or khaki compared to everyone else. And all of them meter a little different. Usually around a 72% but that can vary a bunch of points either way depending on manufacturer. I currently have a Toyota Highlander in the bay that meters 19% rear factory and 64% front "clear" "green glass"
  5. I have worked a few different ways when it comes to commission and that's really all I can go on for your information. I did a salary vs. commission where I was guaranteed a certain weekly pay even if I did not tint anything but if my commission earnings were more that what my salary would have been I received my commission pay instead of my salary pay. On this job I was hired as a window tinter but was expected to help out the installers if needed but not paid to be an installer, just a tinter. I also worked an hourly including commission situation. This was at an accessories shop so if I was not tinting windows I was turning wrenched on accessory installs. Received both hourly rate plus a commission check for tint every week. Have also done just straight commission as a tinter only. Not a bad way to go if the shop has enough work for you because there in nothing else for you to worry about except tinting. Re-do's are what they are. If you have a good experienced tinter and you feel it fully necessary to charge them for product if having to redo something then go that route. Otherwise I would not penalize the tinter if they are on commission and not an hourly rate. Just let them redo the mistake and you as the film supplier just eat the extra film. This is of course if your redo's are at the minimum. Constant redo's will have to be handled properly at your discretion. Hourly is a little more difficult. If on hourly I "might" deduct for the amount of film they are using to redo something and let them keep the hourly. It really depends on the situation in this case.
  6. Okay, my apologies. Not sure how great my input was. I do understand now and I also realize I was really long winded for not much reason at all. I will respectfully bow out of this one and learn something instead. I have always been a commissioned tint installer until I was self employed and I do not have any experience in the pre-load game.
  7. Being that you are in the Atlanta area, in my opinion your prices are too low. I don't know many reputable shops that will touch a 4 door car for under $200. That being said I would check your area prices at the other shops and match up as close as you can. I might be wrong but I think if you will call around to some of the shops you want to compete with or be compared to and you will find that you might be selling yourself short. $80 for a windshield is crazy. $20 for a front strip will end up pissing off your installer more than anything else. Sunroof and Pano prices are also way to low. No ceramic film options ?? I would at least have one upgrade film option or you will lose clientele to the shops that do. You can usually have a general price list but are also going to have adjust for more difficult vehicles. Tinting a Camry and tinting a BMW or Audi for the same price is just not correct. Difficulty of install affects the price of the job. Not all windshields and rear glass will be easy to shrink and you have to adjust for this or lose money on the back end. Trying to price by number of windows is going to bite you in arse in the long run. Not all windows are the same size and there is different difficulty from front doors to back doors to stupid little triangle windows in the A-pillars and so on etc. If you are supplying everything then you should probably consider a commission pay rate of some sort. This person could still do other jobs at an hourly pay rate and still have a commission on tint jobs. Just can't see paying an hourly rate for tint because some jobs are going to take way longer than others.
  8. That is a rather bad install. Could definitely be better BUT being that this is a mobile install it is going to be tough getting done any better. Some mobile installers can do a decent job but not in most cases. Uncontrolled environment creates horrible installs. Assuming it is winter wherever you are, having it redone could lead to just about the same quality of install if it is redone mobile.
  9. The two places to make the most money tinting windows are Texas and South Florida. You must have PLENTY of experience and be able to work on high end, expensive vehicles.
  10. I wanted to suggest possibly using a heavily frosted or etched glass for the enclosures. This should reduce reflection by a ton, if not remove it.
  11. Yes!!! The signs around town will help. 100% I was already established at a location with a partnership deal along side an auto accessories shop. That partnership fell apart and I had to move to a different location and start over 100% on my own. My new location was not very visible from the road and down off a side road. This meant I had to put out signs and I had to go out and hand out business cards and pound the pavement to tell everyone where my new location was. Of course FB adds on local pages that would allow me to do so helped, but mainly going around handing out cards and putting out signs on busy corners was the biggest thing. If your area will allow signs without taking them up after you put them out, I would definitely get some easy coroplast yard signs and stick them everywhere they will let you. Go to every car show or craft event or whatever type of public gathering that will let you hand out cards. These things will help more than you know. also I edited your post and tagged Dano for you.
  12. In my opinion, which of course could be way wrong I don't think fish in general see well at all. Fish in an almost perfectly clear tank is one thing, but fish seeing thru murky, hazy, particle filled water; well that's totally different. Pretty sure we all know sharks smell way better than they see and I would assume it's about the same for say large mouth bass. I just don't think LMB see very well unless it is directly in from of them. Even then, I fell like it is limited distance. As far as stationary floating and looking around goes for bass; Most of the time I think bass are mainly using one eye, sideways; and down is not really in their field of view much at all.
  13. Interested in this scenario but here is my from the "not so smart" section. I see problems with the enclosures being made of glass. I feel the reflective properties of glass itself combined with the reflective properties of water, both of these combined are going to be a problem with this experiment. I just feel like the multiple pieces of glass that will have to be used are going to create multiple reflection issues. i.e. - the way a fish tank looks at the corners. Also the fact that film will change the environment much like putting film on a sunroom and killing all the plants in the room. Film is going to change the environmental conditions to where they are incorrect. Water temp I would think would also be a factor in this experiment and is going to be difficult to get correct without some sort of heat lamp or water heater option. Using light to have one side brighter than the other is going to also hinder keeping the same temp in all areas of the test. Fish generally group according to size and safety. Size being key because we all know big fish eat little fish so the grouping will need to be very consistent in that aspect. They also use the cover and currents to determine where they feel safest. All in all I just think this test will be rather inconclusive because of the difficulties of recreating the "proper" situations for said testing and man made tanks with minimal environmental similarities will be the reason for it. Again, just my two cents.
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