Bham

Sucks that you got screwed. Sorry to hear that. But that is what we all kinda figured.

then Dano was correct about trying to polish it out with the proper glass polish. Much care and experience is needed for this type of repair.

I agree with @Dano except that it is on a factory tinted glass. I still think it's a marr in the glass but not sure why it is showing up like it is unless it is on the outside. Just seems off/odd to me. I did see the same type of thing on a front door (laminated) of a Grand Cherokee the other day. Made the damage really stand out after tint but that was on a clear window, not factory tinted.

I wish it was a 2dr hatch but it’s still cool. New Integra

Especially on something like an Audi/Acura, Hyundai or VW with super tight seals. Don't think that will work with anything rigid or thick.

These are supposedly removable and apparently static cling according to their add. This is just crazy. https://lazeway.com/

Glad to hear from you also Stan. Hope all is well?

Whew. I am worn out. My "new to me" truck DOES NOT have the “easy to shrink” windshield.

Take those stupid spoiler guards off, jeez. Stupid!! Just stupid.

Adding the Global 70% ceramic to a factory 20% tinted glass would be RATHER beneficial as far as heat rejection, without making it any darker. The 70% ceramic from Global performs amazingly, granted the color could be a little better, but I will overlook that part for the amount of IR and heat rejection you get out of such a clear-ish film. I recommend this shade all the time to my senior customers who don't want to go any darker but complain about the heat.

Or just copy/paste something else. Either way is good I guess.

Yes it it different. The only vehicle that I know of that comes with a 30% factory glass is Toyota Tacoma and 4Runner. I have yet to see a Hyundai or Kia with anything other than a 20% factory glass. Just like all the other mannies, their factory glass is somewhere around a 20%. The fact you said your factory rear glass was a 30% is odd to me. Just sayin... Also - IF? your rear glass is a factory 30% and you put 40% on the front two doors, at this point you are only about 5 maybe 7 percentage points different. Factory clear glass with Global 40% on it usually meters at around 32% and that 70% ceramic added to the rear if it is 30% would only change take that down to about 22-25%. If all of this is correct this is what your pictures look like to me. The color or hue problem is due the factory glass color. There in not one single film out there that matches factory glass color perfectly when added to the factory "green glass" on the front two doors. The factory rear glass is always a little different in color or hue. another thing is that all factory "green glass" on the front two doors is a different color or hue from manny to manny. Hell, Toyota 4Runner factory front doors are almost yellow or khaki compared to everyone else. And all of them meter a little different. Usually around a 72% but that can vary a bunch of points either way depending on manufacturer. I currently have a Toyota Highlander in the bay that meters 19% rear factory and 64% front "clear" "green glass"

Woohoo. An easy Audi

I have worked a few different ways when it comes to commission and that's really all I can go on for your information. I did a salary vs. commission where I was guaranteed a certain weekly pay even if I did not tint anything but if my commission earnings were more that what my salary would have been I received my commission pay instead of my salary pay. On this job I was hired as a window tinter but was expected to help out the installers if needed but not paid to be an installer, just a tinter. I also worked an hourly including commission situation. This was at an accessories shop so if I was not tinting windows I was turning wrenched on accessory installs. Received both hourly rate plus a commission check for tint every week. Have also done just straight commission as a tinter only. Not a bad way to go if the shop has enough work for you because there in nothing else for you to worry about except tinting. Re-do's are what they are. If you have a good experienced tinter and you feel it fully necessary to charge them for product if having to redo something then go that route. Otherwise I would not penalize the tinter if they are on commission and not an hourly rate. Just let them redo the mistake and you as the film supplier just eat the extra film. This is of course if your redo's are at the minimum. Constant redo's will have to be handled properly at your discretion. Hourly is a little more difficult. If on hourly I "might" deduct for the amount of film they are using to redo something and let them keep the hourly. It really depends on the situation in this case.

Okay, my apologies. Not sure how great my input was. I do understand now and I also realize I was really long winded for not much reason at all. I will respectfully bow out of this one and learn something instead. I have always been a commissioned tint installer until I was self employed and I do not have any experience in the pre-load game.