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Clark

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Posts posted by Clark

  1. Everyone’s different and works in different surroundings/environments, I know a couple of installers who back roll everything but personally I hate it and find it increases the chances of something getting under the film. I use Costco tables and spring clamps for mine and very rarely get any debris under the film at all. 

  2. 14 hours ago, TomTint said:

    Dealers would rather pay the bumper painter 200.00 to shoot a scratch than have a detailer pull PPF. ..Point is that there is little to no residual value to PPF at trade. In fact..like I said previously, people are more often being dinged at trade time with it on. And yes, tint as well.. Many dealers remove it in their recon shops due to state law restrictions..and the owner gets dinged for that as well. 

     

    To counter your argument, the Porsche dealers in the UK (or certainly the one near me) see PPF as a bonus on a car that’s traded in and it’s on their forms to tick when inspecting. 

  3. On 2/19/2019 at 9:55 PM, PPFdistributing said:

    You shouldn't need either of those. Just a little heat underneath to get the film to grab and tack should do the trick. I've done several of those without needing any type of adhesive promoter. It's not necessary. 

     

    Same here, have done 3 or 4 full Range Rover hoods including the latest SVR with the vents. I find some make the mistake of trying to wrap too much film round the edge which makes it more prone to fingering as you wrap it round. 7/8mm works well in my experience and won’t creep back. 

  4. (Long time lurker but 1st time poster here!)

     

    I quite often use Meguiars Ultimate detailer on areas of the panel that won’t need a hard tack but as already mentioned - keep it away from areas that would need a good bite such as edges and valleys where the film would have a tendency to spring up. As Speed says, squeegeeing bubbles out etc is much easier and it can almost help turn XPEL into a more forgiving film to install like Suntek is. 

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