Young Tinter
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Posts posted by Young Tinter
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I gotten decent enough to run a tint business, 1 - 2 cars a day alone. I realized I think seriously about quitting every 2 weeks. Its like I'm fighting myself working a job I've already moved on from mentally. The little things SUCK. Pumping up my sprayer every 20 seconds, scraping (throwing away) a window, tight quarter seals, customers that don't respect me cause I'm young, and being rushed. I've told myself and gurantee that I am closing my business once I make the $10,000 I need for various reasons (car maintenance, real estate agent registration, buying another car,) or by August 2022. Whichever comes first. Its been great and bad, and Dano is a big reason why I was able to be successful in this industry.
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What do i do when the rollers are not pushing the film straight but diagnol?
I try so hard to straighten the film on the roll but it won't line up and everytime it happens I end up wasting 6ft of film trying to get the tint roll on the pinch rollers straight, help.
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All the films are great, just choose which shop you like most and are most confident in thier work based on thier customer service
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Often times when I mention my prices to friends or potential customers for entry level or mid grade film (deep dyed) they will say there's a guy a city over who has charged them $50 less for ceramic. And its true, places are claiming they sell ceramic for 160 CAD (130Usd) to 180 CAD (145USD). My question is, what do I tell these customers? I think the cheap shops may not be using ceramic tint, low quality ceramic tint, or they are using a strategy of pumping out as much jobs as possible by offering below market prices. Ceramic is usually $300USD to $400USD in my area.
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I have been using stainless steel olfa blades since I started tinting and i gotta say I do not reccomend it unless you cut directly on the vehicle or are using the blade to clean. I just recently got a plotter, but when I use the handcut I used the tracing method and cut on a glass board for BG as well. I would be constantly snapping blades to the point where it was unproductive to keep using stainless steel blades. Now that I have a plotter I will be using carbon blades to weed patterns with less headache of dull blades. Also, I heard on tintdude that tightly gripping dull blades to cut, is bad for your joints.
Merry Christmas
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1 minute ago, Young Tinter said:
Putting aside satisfying the customer 100%, to be honest, this might be a little OCD, we all get picky sometimes but you mentioned you had two other doors redone for similar reasons. I'd think about not putting any aftermarket tint on your next vehicle.
Also, I realize I'm not a great tinter, however I've seen quality work from reputable shops deliver work with small similar imperfections as you've shown w/o concern.
My bad, just realized you actually did mention you have OCD in your original post
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20 minutes ago, Stewie said:
Thank you all for your replies. As I said initially, they are a very reputable shop and had redone 2 windows for me in the past for similar imperfections. The main difference here is that a windshield is huge and statistically more likely to have imperfections.
In the end I couldn't live with it. I had them redo it, which they did without much fuss, and it is now perfect. They are a little more expensive than surrounding shops but clearly worth every penny. The older I get, the more I am happy to pay for good work.
Putting aside satisfying the customer 100%, to be honest, this might be a little OCD, we all get picky sometimes but you mentioned you had two other doors redone for similar reasons. I'd think about not putting any aftermarket tint on your next vehicle.
Also, I realize I'm not a great tinter, however I've seen quality work from reputable shops deliver work with small similar imperfections as you've shown w/o concern.
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54 minutes ago, Dano said:
A soak rope will help. Also pull the inside wheel trims and stuff some towels over the power boxes on anything euro or electric. I pull the a-pillar covers on windshields and find stuff in there as well, teslas particularly.
Okay thanks, I'm gonna start using soak rope on all back windows in case there's an amp back there. Better safe then sorry. I'm also gonna make customers sign a waiver for back windows specifically audi, bmw m series, mercedes e300. And of course waiver for all windshields as well.
Trust me when I say I will do everything in my power to never pay for electronics on a customer's vehicle 😂
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Just in case anybody was wondering here is the link for my reference
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I am purchasing a soak rope. Should I be using a soak rope on back window to prevent too much water going into electronics? Is it necessary to use on back windows trunk area?
I think I heard some person had issues with the keyless start function not working on a mercedes due to electronics being wet in the back window, however I'm not sure.
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4 minutes ago, TintDude said:
I've done tons of both and dreaded every single flat glass job. There was always some complication.
Usually each shop I worked for offered both. So for me being on commission, I'd have to stop working on cars to go give free $%^ing estimates. I hated it and always felt like I was being taken advantage of.
Happy birthday OG
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19 minutes ago, TintDude said:
Are cars seeming better yet?
Oh definitely, to be honest, you had me at ladder & free estimates
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5 minutes ago, TintDude said:
And you can't be pulling up in a beater, you are going to need a niceish at least looking work vehicle.
Oh wow
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2 minutes ago, TintDude said:
Oh and expect to do a lot of "free estimates". It helps to be clean cut and be a good salesman as well.
Can most free estimates be done through email online? I hate to drive two towns over for an estimate
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I feel as if I'm getting the hang of auto tinting, for every 10 cars that come i can complete 7 of the cars and send the other 3 on there way without tint. 7:3 ratio. But the little things suck (deteriorating felt, annoying customers, researching brand new cars, having a panic attack if I left the ignition on for too long or not, BMWs, etc.)
So, everyone says commercial is where the money is and im sure its easier than automotive (right?)... Why the hell am I not doing flat glass!?
Summary: what are the pros and cons of doing flat glass tinting over automotive tinting?
- Tintguy1980 and TintDude
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Anybody use this, can this to be used to bottom load instead of pulling panel or sweep?
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So easy guys
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If I tell you not to be in the room when I'm installing, stay the fuck outta the room and stop bothering me. I'm sure many other tinters go through this but don't wanna be rude. I couldnt imagine people acting this annoying way towards mechanics
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7 minutes ago, Tintguy1980 said:
Power cord yes and a 15-25' printer type cord for computer connect (plotters are simply large printers using a blade rather than ink).
Check with your film supplier for computer cut film software and subscription costs.
See #1
If your film supplier sells plotter and software they are likely you go to for plotter issues. Eastman (LLumar Film has a dept dedicated to patterns and plotters).
Pretty mush; it's all about having the plotter set up to cut different materials. Some plotters you can select 1-5 (possibly more) different blade pressure settings. Critical to select blade pressure before cutting selected material.
Stick to software and patterns from US/Canada to ensure quality of fit on car models sold in NA.
There are times when some peeps on this board remind me of my wife when it comes to answering questions; they seem to skirt getting direct to the point aka answer(s). 😆
👏👏👏
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I'm looking into to investing in a plotter but cant find basic information. I dont know how plotters work at all.
Questions:
1. Does a plotter just plug into the wall with a power cord or is there an additional cord like LAN cables or something?
2. If I don't have an account with a major film supplier (ex. Xpel) how do I get the software or database for the computer cut patterns?
3. How would I connect my computer to the plotter to send the pattern info to cut?
4. If I have an issue with the plotter that needs to be dealt with in person do I call the company that i bought it from customer's service or is thier buisnesses that offer service to help with printers and plotters?
5. Are viynl plotters and window tint plotter the same or universal?
6. I see window tint/viynl plotters on Alibaba in China for cheap, is this something I should look into buying?
7. Is there a online source where I can educate myself more on tint plotters?
8. Any reccomended where to buy plotters if located in Canada?
9. What brand plotter should I get to ensure patter software are compatible with the plotter?
Thank you
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11 hours ago, Dano said:
Put some soap on those seals to stop some of the handling creases. For small fingers I'll wrap a towel around a hard card and jam it in and leave it until the glue tacks.
Thank you very much
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Hi guys still a new tinter, sometimes I get fingers on the side of the film. They are unable to be heated and pushed out with the chizler. What am I doing wrong??? (Picture included)
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Hi guys, gotta a customer asking for tint on a Ford Transit ( the ones where the front window is divided in half) anything I should look out for for the front windows are quite odd. I saw youtube video of a guy cutting on the inside of the door. Should I just get pre cut film from one of my suppliers? I dont pull panels or seals
Ps. The forum didn't allow me to post this in auto makes topic for some reason
Dissapointed customer
in Window Tinting - General Discussion
Posted
I really don't understand how all these scratches were made, unless the installer was hand cutting. When you reinstall the glass and tint you most definitely should not have to worry about scratches again. Im my experience scratches are very rare during plotter cut installation.