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  1. Given the above (quoted) statement to be true, I believe the onus is on the tint shop that did the work. Unless, the dealership staff did not clearly communicate your desire for the tint to not violate state law, then I believe the onus is on the dealership. All tinters are legally obligated to tint in accordance to state statute any vehicle presented to them. If they choose not to, all liability falls on their shoulder. If an illegally tinted vehicle is involved in an accident and the tint was a factor that lead to the accident, the tinter can be held accountable AND the car owner's insurance company can refuse to cover damages because said car did not meet state statute for operation on its (state) roads.
  2. Well, it's not standard practice to poke the film after it's installed ... However, you can certainly try to poke at the center of the particle (tent) using a needle or stick-pin. Then, take a fingernail or hard card and carefully push the air pocket (tent) from its outer edge to the contaminate; continuing this process around the perimeter of the air pocket. This should lay the film to the glass all around the piece of contamination, making it less obvious. Of course, this is presuming it's round in shape and not a fiber or hair like shape. Trying to remove the particle once slitting or poking it will only lead to an obvious blemish with a light leak. It's definitely a damned if you do and damned if you don't scenario. This is what I can suggest without the aid of a picture to see precisely what you're dealing with.
  3. Late to the post party as usual. Here's what I see; a back glass that is similar to an earlier model Chevrolet sedan (can't remember the model, maybe a SS Impala?). Some might remember it had a humongous back glass that needed heat shrink at one end (top to bottom) and not at the other. Or, close to that Camaro that needed shrink at the top and shrink at the bottom after manipulating the excess in the reverse curve into pockets, heating those pockets until they relaxed a bit. Sometimes it's as simple as not shrinking the reverse curve area and if heat shrinking is overused, the film will be too tight when installing, leading to the film snapping off the surface. Just my
  4. Welcome to the industry. You sound like I did back in 1980. It certainly doesn't hurt to have like material installation skills. I use ask those questions when hiring back in the day; have you installed large vinyl decals, cabinet paper, wallpaper, etc. I'd also ask if they had a hidden artist in themselves or are they good with children. The latter was to gauge their level of patience. Here's what I can share that may or may not be the best advice: Question 1. Yes, tinting is a good business to get into with just a couple caveats; 1) you will be dealing with the general public (GP) of these times. Tinting for people who know you gives a false sense of security in that they may 'accept' what you have done so well and thank you without complaint. However, the GP today will scan the glass surface so much so it wouldn't be unusual to find fingerprints or nose smudges from their inspection effort. And 2) I wouldn't give up a day job until the skills needed for the general public are consistently solid from car to car or home to home if that were something you would do as well. I worked a part-time job in the evening and made myself available for tinting during the day; had to do that for almost 2 years before my word of mouth reputation brought in enough work to support my home and the blooming business. Question 2. Brick and mortar, IMO, is the best route. However, it can be tough to finance a shop in the early days without sinking many $$'s in promoting your business. And as always, location, location, location, is always key. From a mobile perspective, well, I did that too. But, only because I did homes and business building glass as well. One feeds the other; auto leads to homes or business and vice versa. Homeowners always asked if I did cars. If they had a clean garage setting I would offer to do their car at their home. That is about as mobile I would get in terms of tinting car glass. Mobile vs. brick and mortar location will have some consumers questioning how reliable is your service in the event there were to be warranty claims. I use tell customers that the mobile guy has a tail-light warranty; you see their tails heading away from you compared with my store location is right here. It's truly is a tough call whether to do mobile or brick and mortar. No one but you can make that decision. I'll leave you with a couple things learned over the years; for the consumer there are only two of three factors they are able to receive (watch those that come along and say otherwise). A good price, a high quality product, or high quality service; all three are not attainable. So, the next thing would be; if your market is saturated with other tinters, you will have to find something that sets you apart from your competitors. Don't lose sight of what you are doing by paying too much attention what the others are doing. Hope this is useful as I have long since retired and may have forgotten more than what I know about the industry. Good luck!
  5. That my friend is a matter of perspective. It's not wrong in the context of the OP's question; she obviously is looking at two different name brands already and asked which of them would be better. It's also best not to muddy the waters of the consumer by throwing out more than 2-3 choices. Personally, I have no qualms over the two other names suggested, it's just not what she asked about.
  6. Agree with the above statement. As to tiny spots, well, perfection is the target and fortunately we humans fall short on occasion. Yes that reads correctly. If there exists one or two tiny specks from airborne dust, per window, they are considered as a norm. To achieve absolute speck free on an entire vehicle would be astronomically more costly to the consumer given the amount of material needed for perfection. And what is least known, is the industry standard has been set viewing an install 6-feet away from the glass surface. Now this doesn't account for a consumer's keen eye and finger- or nose prints on the glass, but it (one or two tiny specks) is what was adopted as normal by voting professionals some years back. Take the thing out for a spin through the mud or dry lake bed and it's quite likely they will not be a problem any longer.
  7. Well, I'll say it; the possibility of clear spots in film, straight out of the box, is real. I've seen it and I've missed it when installing. Have the installation guy look it over and confirm (since you have indicated it is smooth to the touch).
  8. If you've done the same reading of the TX state statute, you are in good company because I came away with a nothing burger on any penalty. I would presume you would receive a fix-it ticket but, who knows how they handle it outside of vehicle state inspection. Call TDPS and ask.
  9. Wow! That back glass must have been done outside on a windy day and the side glass appears as though somebody didn't rinse their fingers when picking up the pattern from the spray board (Top edge debris). There are other reasons for the debris but I'll stick with the couple presented.
  10. Get it (your answer) straight from a 3M distributor's mouth; call 800.232.8468. https://www.interwestdc.com/
  11. Is that by absorption, reflection or both in the near infrared (NIR)? Understand NIR is not heat until it is absorbed and converts to re-radiating far infrared (FIR)... so marketing as shielding 90% IR heat gain may be misleading, unless it has the capacity to shield both NIR and FIR. The latter may be true, if the coating does work as stated in winter to retain man-made heat (in the FIR).
  12. Had a shop in Naples back in the 90's, guy drives up in a RR Silver Shadow asking to have his windows tinted. I quoted him a price related to any four door vehicle. He was stunned and said the other shops want 2-3 times what you're asking; what gives? I said,. 'They priced it by the badge as opposed to the glass area involved. $1300 is a bit pricey for the amount of glass area in your vehicle IMO and the film appears to be some cheap azz film that has poor adhesion and is blurry, to boot. They do ask that you give it 30 days however, dry time for the vast majority of films out there today is a week of steady sun exposure.
  13. That is hilarious! The solution to safety film allowing people get through on tempered glass doors is to replace the glass with annealed (ask for a discount on glass replacement; letting the glass company keep the removed standard fit tempered piece). Film the annealed glass with thick safety film, bringing it into code compliance. Now if someone busts a hole in the film/glass combo and tries to crawl through, they'll leave some bloody DNA behind as the glass edge cuts them. Plus they'll likely spend more time busting through annealed.
  14. This looks as though it could have been installed on the interior; why exterior? Product: If it were me, I'd be using Hanita's exterior film products with a close second in LLumar products. Both these brands are known for longevity. Sealing: What thickness was the film; 4mil, 5, 6, 7, 8? This is important in terms of dry time. I would think 4mil would seal well in a couple days (of sunny) time however, I believe sealing should have been done at no less than 7 days out. The thicker the film the longer wait time needed until sealing edges. This is so the sealant won't put lateral pressure on the film as it cures. Also best to use a neutral cure (sealant) caulk such as Dow 1199. Standard caulks emit caustic gases that can impact the metal in the film along the edge. Possibles: 1. The areas in question may not have had sufficient sealant at the edge. At least that's what it appears to be; water seeped under the film edge. 2. Or, was there a protective layer that needed to be removed after squeegeeing the film down (the milkiness indicates this)? 3. Did the caulking lift the film edge during curing; just enough for water seepage? This is the best I can give since I am not there to see it in person.
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