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About Tintguy1980

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  1. Yeah, Tom knows his stuff ... And yes, putting tint on the lowE coating negates the lowE capabilities; however, this only applies to single pane lowE. There's a trick using a cigarette lighter. Flick the Bic lighter and look for the color variation in one of the flame reflections. The color tells you type of metal used for the coating and the reflection that is colored tells you which surface the coating is on.
  2. Good visual ... best meter to use would be the EDTM 2450, though. Reason = it is so accurate it comes within 2% of those $100K photospectrometers (? name) the mannies use. I found similar number ona buttload of different badges (make of car) on cars. Current factory privacy glass definitely reduces solar energy amount similar to the reading in this video. They do vary slightly among makes and models. Same goes for front driver passenger glass; however, the variation is wider than that found with privacy glass. Edit: windshields should also be performing well this day and age but, not sure how to verify. At least they do in the UV range.
  3. Always keep in mind, glass has a variable of 2-3%, film has a variable of 3% +/- and meters have a variable of 2% +/- (battery charge impacts accuracy here) .
  4. I found buying 60 inch film and running machine direction vertically, then shrinking on the side,was far easier than the typical.
  5. Likely because you don't stress the film during the shrink. Peanuts have nothing to do with defrost lines however, defrost lines have something to do with peanuts; they provide the lift and channel for air to get beneath an area of the film that has been shrunk too fast. Heat source to hot or too close. You may see it more around climate change such as going from warm weather to cold or vice versa whereby you've have established an approach according to season and now must adjust that approach to change of season (even if indoors).
  6. Well, it's your prerogative and your wallet involved. Take it as far as you can afford, if you wish. In all the years I spent installing film for the public I quit counting the accusations spewed by my competitors. If sourced from Ebay, it's quite possible the installer in question was any of the following outside the scope of your statement: 1) He's not a 3M dealer, 2) but bought the piece-meal film from someone who is via Ebay, to which it would not carry a warranty; only 3M dealers can install and issue a warranty, or 3) he didn't want to or couldn't buy a full roll of that product to do one windscreen. Each roll has an ID number that is to appear on the warranty. The other factor might be expecting a 70% film to work miracles against the sun's energy. Good luck with this.
  7. My experience with Crystalline has the 70 & 90 appearing bluish like the photo provided and the darker ones (20 & 40) are earth tone brownish. 3M logo is printed on the film surface and can be removed with isopropyl alcohol without issue. Edit: This is where it gets complicated. As to feeling the near infrared radiation (NIR), well, you will because though Crystalline is very effective in reflecting NIR between 780nm (nanometers) and 1350nm, the NIR spectrum goes on out to 2400-2500nm. They report 97% rejection at 950nm, which is one of the least intense wavelengths throughout the NIR spectrum (there are four regions of less intensity compared to the entire NIR spectrum). That's marketing for you. Some of the most intense wavelengths (visible as spikes on an electromagnetic radiation chart) can be found in the range stated above (780-1350), though. What you are feeling is the remaining energy that the film is not as effective at rejecting. And, overall or cumulative NIR rejection for the intense range, 780-1350nm, is measured in and around 88%. Also, NIR is not 'felt' whereby, far infrared is. Explained: Far infrared IS heat produced when NIR, ultraviolet and visible light energy strikes and is absorbed by a material (such as your body tissue) and then converts to far infrared (heat), sensed by nearby nerve endings. Relax, you have Crystalline. Now. if you were to pursue fraud/bait and switch case through 3M, you will likely have to send a sample of the film in for structural dissection. This means the film would have to be removed. There is no other means of determining authenticity. I have Crystalline 40 on my front driver and passenger side windows (it is earth tone inside looking out). 5 years and no discoloring and no adhesive distortion. IMO, all the horror stories out there were the first generation; 3M improved the product since inception.
  8. Most films make available technical performance value sheets with one parameter being the U-value. They usually list all their films and at some location on that sheet will give the values of glass before film is applied.
  9. One pair sunglasses for driving only, polarized for out of vehicle.
  10. I'd use a diagram for marking blemishes as well as take digital pictures. Whether you save the pictures or calla bluff is totally your decision. Digital pics won't lie, though.
  11. Centering ... YES. Edit: I cut one side edge, slide over twice the amount needed to distribute on the sides, cut opposite side, then center before cutting the top edge.
  12. Sorry to be so late on a reply, I don't get here much these days. If I were in Tampa FL (as I was in Naples years ago), I would not be using any ceramic film product on my home windows. The reason; ceramics are generally known for high solar absorption rates; meaning a greater amount of the solar energy that strikes the glass will be absorbed into the glass. Now, based on the theory that heat always seeks cold and AC is used a 8-10 months out of the year down there, a greater amount of that absorbed heat will radiate indoors making a hot spot near the glass. All window film works on the premise that outdoor wind will cool the glass, thus drawing absorbed heat away. Any reported performance values are based on a 7 mph wind speed passing over the exterior glass surface. Question is, just how cool does the wind need be on the outside to make this happen. On a 90 degree day, the cooler temps are in the house under AC use. You may want to entertain the idea of a dual-reflective film product such as LLumar DR35, 3M Night Vision 35, or Vista 38 or a like product under the Panorama brand name. These products absorb less in solar energy than a ceramic product and have higher reflective capacity in comparison. The higher the total solar reflectance, the greater reduction of solar energy getting through the glass/film combo into a home's interior. From an exterior appearance perspective, the three products listed will leave your glass looking moderately reflective, which would not exceed the look of having dual pane glass windows. Dual-reflective products allow better outward viewing at night compared with straight reflective products. Hope this is helpful.
  13. I used a heat gun on films since it was first introduced as a method to form fit film in the 80's; up until my retirement 4 years ago. I'm 64 and no cancer to be had. Shrink away.
  14. Your general slip solution, increased in surfactant concentration, does the same thing. Note: same as the warning label on the bottle above, wet spray will cause slippery floor. And either way you go, both will continually leave build up that becomes slippery when wet.