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Tintguy1980

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  1. 1. I don't scrape any tint these days as I approach 6 years in retirement. 2. Heat lamps do not represent the sun's energy.
  2. The pics provide served well; it appears some specks are small particle contamination and the distorted areas appear to be light adhesive residue that didn't get cleaned away before film was applied. It's a tricky situation removing film from windscreens because there is risk in glass breakage using the steam or sweat method to remove film. That leaves the old fashion removal method of simply peeling the film away, which will likely leave every bit of adhesive on the glass and requires much effort to remove every last bit of residue. If you go for a redo, yet again, consider getting Crystalline. Why? Crystalline is very effective at reflecting the near-infrared (part of solar energy) rather than absorbing it, which occurs with ceramic products. A friend of mine had his truck windscreen tinted with a light version of Stratos product and wound up having it removed because his front window became a radiator. Stratos is a hjgh solar absorptive product as is Pinnacle and other 'like' ceramic products.
  3. Depends on the quality of the line material's chemistry, the quality of the firing process used to seal the lines to the glass surface, the age of the tint, and the softness of the film's adhesive after years of sun exposure. It is suggested to have it done professionally, whereby an installer has at their disposal a steaming process or and old fashion sweat process. Even with these two techniques, there remains the chance of defroster line lift based on the above factors. No installer guarantees a defroster will work after film removal.
  4. Personally, I wouldn't trust or use any blade that didn't have SS or Stainless etched in the blade itself.
  5. TD said; a percent of the price is exactly that. After all, you are getting 65% of the upsell and Dano makes some great points. By the way, that's what I paid my installer(s) back in the 80's; 35%.
  6. Well, I certainly didn't live up to the 'wiz' label in respect to 'black reflective' other than the fact that in a DR 05 film construction one side has a reflective silver appearance and the other side is black. So, is it being touted as Black Reflective for marketing purposes, even though it's exterior appearance is silver reflective? Is the 15 sample DR as well? Dual reflective denotes unequal visible reflective values; one side compared to the opposing side ... so a DR 05 might have a reflective value above 35 facing to the exterior and the interior having a visible reflective value of, say, 13. If both sides are equally silver in appearance they will have close reflective values.
  7. Thanks ... I am but an 8th grader compared to the colleagues I once worked with (and, no, don't ask ... as I am bound by NDA not to disclose where I worked or with whom). I am going to presume one of the samples you show is silver reflective on both sides and the other is silver reflective on one side and the opposing side is black (much like a real glass mirror)? Either way, I personally, would not put those films on standard lowE or lowE dual pane and they both would be overkill on lowE2, lowE3 and lowE4 (the three latter being high performance lowE). Standard clear dual pane glazing would handle the two choices presented. Maybe the person you spoke with was thinking in terms of silver as in the metal (Ag) rather than silver in appearance. These samples are an aluminum vapor coating deposited to the polyester surface. Films are made with either and can almost look alike. One is just more pricey. Edit: I'm vaguely familiar with JWF products but I am going to go out on a limb and say Nightscape 05 is either a make up of two ply with each ply being coated with metal oxide to not have a shiny 'silver' appearance or it could be a three ply with two layers of dyed polyester with an aluminum coated ply sandwiched between each dye layer. Sorry, really don't know this product and am only comparing it to other known 'similar' constructions under other names.
  8. The underlined is misinformation. I posted in another discussion temperature differences between center pane and pane edge; that is one reason glass breaks. Glass center and glass edge heating up at different rates puts molecular stress on the glass or thermal stress as it's better known as. Other reasons include a minor crack or clam-shell chip at glass edge not visible because of frame. These two anomalies will crack quicker when the pane heats up from sun exposure than a pane with pristine edges. Adding tint to the equation you get ever more rapid glass failure. Temperature difference can be witnessed during winter by simply pouring warm or hot water on a windshield to melt the frost or, vise versa. I had snow atop my Jeep a couple winters back. The sun had warmed up the windshield and as I approached a red light, braking, the snow slid off the roof onto the warm windshield. With a low 'pahting' sound, I witnessed a crack form from one side edge. LowE in dual pane glass has become more prevalent in architecture, and with that, the need to be eyeing film reflection and absorption rates carefully. This is because the lowE coating is almost always on surface 2 (the inside surface of the outer pane). Placing a high reflection (or in some cases seriously high absorptive film) on surface 4 (the inside surface of the inner pane) causes that pane to heat up and though you might have air movement from the outside air, the lowE coating is trapping heat from escaping the outer pane. Heat always seeks cold (that's physics). The trapped heat will absorb into the tinted pane seeking transfer through to the cooler air on the room side, causing the inner pane to heat up beyond the limit; 50 F difference between center pane and pane edge for annealed glass. It is the uneven expansion rates between center and edge, again, puts undo stress on the glass to the point of failure. If tempered glass is involved in a dual pane setting with lowE coatings, the glass cannot fail due to heat stress, however. the seal that creates the dual pane can and will fail prematurely. Tempered glass fails at 200 F difference between center pane and glass edge. High performance lowE is a different animal whereby most tints can be applied without breakage issues because that type glazing system rejects much of the solar energy before reaching the inner pane. Another physics; the sun's electromagnetic radiation (visible, UV, and NIR) pass through glass, entering the room and heats up the air etc by absorption. May I suggest you contact the IWFA (International Window Film Association) and request a copy of their Architectural Film Installation Guide (it'll cost you some digits but, well worth it as resource). Also, get your hands on a film-to-glass chart from any major film manufacturer and use it to determine what film is best for what glazing system. If your current supplier does not have one, get it from one that does and you can still use it if you closely compare film performance values from your supplier to that which is listed on a film to glass chart.
  9. Thinking outside the box; this may serve the purpose. You might be able to reuse from car to car IF, you can put sheets aside intact and not stuck together. https://www.lowes.com/pd/200-ft-Clear-Carpet-Accessory/4129492
  10. Good for you on doing your research. Straight-dyed (or NR) film would not serve well for the reasons you've state above. Neither will a ceramic film product because both those type films have high solar absorption rates and rely of air movement across the surface to achieve their stated performance. If you can get your hands on a dual-reflective product used on flat glass made up of a layer of dyed polyester and a layer of metallized polyester (LLumar DR 35, 3M NV 35 or other like products), it'll serve the purpose much better than the before-mentioned product types. Be careful though, there are some dual-reflective film products that are dye-ceramic combos whereby, again, they will have high absorption rates. A metallized product (dual or singular) with a solar reflectance value between 25 and 35% is best in an automotive (RV) scenario, so as to avoid the exterior looking too reflective. Edit: If there is any chance you can get some 3M Crystalline product, it too will serve well ... this is because though Cryustalline has low solar reflectance value, it compensates by having a high near-infrared reflectance capability, while having a smoked glass appearance. I've had Crystalline 40 on my Jeep D&P front doors now for 6, going on, 7 years and it shows no sign of instability of color or fading and no sign of adhesive distortion.
  11. Laminated glass in architecture is almost always annealed. Laminated glass in automotive is likely heat-strengthened in order to shape it. Tempered lami is a minority. It takes a 50 F. difference in edge temp and center temp for annealed to break. It takes a 100 F. difference for heat-strengthened to break. And it takes 200 F. difference for tempered to break.
  12. I use to gather patterns for one of the plotter cut programs over the course of about 5-7 years and I can certainly attest to the fact that on roll-down windows you might get the micro-edge cut to fit a couple identical vehicles, but the original pattern will not fit precisely to the top edge on 'all' windows under the same make and model. I went so far as to hand cut the pattern on a Mustang no-frame D/P glass and immediately test-fit the pattern on the opposite side AND on multiple (same model) Mustangs on the lot. This is why I can attest to the fact, plotter cut patterns will not fit to everyone's liking on every vehicle glass in the same make, model and year ranges. There are simply too many variables; in the top edge, border fit when framed, door panel rub-rail location and on stationary glass, the decorative black ceramic bordering even if the glass has the same manufacturer. When I did this part of my job responsibilities years ago, I grew tired and calloused over the complaints and nobody wanted to hear the above explanation. Edit: One solution is to offer custom-cut installations at a higher price and plotter-cut installations at a discounted price.
  13. Yeah, Tom knows his stuff ... And yes, putting tint on the lowE coating negates the lowE capabilities; however, this only applies to single pane lowE. There's a trick using a cigarette lighter. Flick the Bic lighter and look for the color variation in one of the flame reflections. The color tells you type of metal used for the coating and the reflection that is colored tells you which surface the coating is on.
  14. Good visual ... best meter to use would be the EDTM 2450, though. Reason = it is so accurate it comes within 2% of those $100K photospectrometers (? name) the mannies use. I found similar number ona buttload of different badges (make of car) on cars. Current factory privacy glass definitely reduces solar energy amount similar to the reading in this video. They do vary slightly among makes and models. Same goes for front driver passenger glass; however, the variation is wider than that found with privacy glass. Edit: windshields should also be performing well this day and age but, not sure how to verify. At least they do in the UV range.
  15. Always keep in mind, glass has a variable of 2-3%, film has a variable of 3% +/- and meters have a variable of 2% +/- (battery charge impacts accuracy here) .
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