Go2Guy

WOW. . . . I just literally had the same issue on im pretty sure the same radio . Here those radios are plagued with issues . . . INCLUDING THE SCREEN NOT WORKING. . . . . Here is a ford techs website that documents the ONGOING SCREEN ISSUES,  He was even kind enough to respond to me and here is what he said :  

 

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Tint on December 19, 2017 at 1:32 pm said:

Hello Vincent thank you so much for having a great and informative site, I have a question for you, I was tinting a ford vehicle with the same system and after completing customer informed the screen no longer worked[ not responsive to touch commands, but other wised worked], the problem is im not sure if it worked before i even started working on it , worse case scenario i may have gotten some over spray of soapy water on to the screen, not alot but think about a light windex spray spray, I have tinted hundreds of cars and have never had light spray cause any type electronic failure, would it cause failure of this screen? whats worse is the car is likely OOW and the customer is going to want me to flip the bill for this im guessing 1000 dollar bill, do you have any suggestions?

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• Vincenton December 19, 2017 at 1:45 pm said:

  Well… ammonia based liquid can and will damage a touch screen. Especially if it were to drip down the screen and linger along (inside) the crevice between the frame and the actual touch screen.
  As for replacement, I would suggest finding the exact replacement through a salvage source.
  Here is one source: https://www.factoryradioparts.com/products/ford-lincoln-sony-sync-2-myford-touch-replacement-touch-screen
  But do research and replace with the exact OEM-quality replacement.

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  • Tinton December 19, 2017 at 2:18 pm said:

    thank you very much for your response vincent, for tinting we only use bottled water an about a capful of johnson and johnson baby soap [the windex spray example was to give an idea of about how much water was possibly sprayed on it].

    I’m a new business owner and this is my first experience with anything going wrong like this  so its a tad stressful

    If i were to get the replacement screen would it be literally just disassemble plug it in and reassemble , or would the dealer need to be involved to initialize or activate it in some way ?
    [Im used to replacing screens on laptops so i feel up to the job as long as its with in my means.

    Is it possible that it is not my fault
    and instead software update,APIM or some other related on going issue that I have read about these radios?I just want to if possible confirm my innonscence or guilt through trouble shooting before proceeding with cover the bill

    Again thank you very much for your responses, either way i’m relieved to have you tell me a 180 dollar screen will likely be the fix.

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    • Vincenton December 19, 2017 at 2:42 pm said:

      Okay, here’s something to check… when the vehicle is started and running… can you push the Voice icon (the mouth) on the steering wheel… does the system sound a tone and state “Sync, state your command?”
      Is there any image on the Touch Screen at all?
      If you have a blank screen, but have a Voice… then push the Voice button… and, after the prompt, state “Set temperature at 72 degrees.” Does the system respond by resetting the temperature?
      Put the vehicle in park and turn off the vehicle. Loosen and remove the black battery cable (the negative) clamp. Leave off for several minutes. Replace and retighten. Close hood. Start the vehicle. After a few minutes (allowing it to reboot)… does any image appear on the Touch Screen? Can you set the clock? Set the radio?
      If there is no screen image at all, then the screen might be toast. Yes, you should be able to remove the frame on the dashboard, remove the screen, unplug it, and then plug in a replacement. Before starting it up, I would pull the black battery cable clamp for several minutes. Then replace clamp and then start the engine. Now the system would reboot with the new screen. If it still doesn’t work, then I would recommend a visit to a Ford Service Department for further diagnostic.
      I agree with you… there may have been issues with this system before you worked on the vehicle. Yes, liquid can cause issues with the screen. I only recommend using a soft, clean microfiber towel to wipe the screen clean.
      Good luck!

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    • Vincenton December 19, 2017 at 2:44 pm said:

      By the way… if you feel this information has been useful, then please consider a “offering a donation” by clicking on the Patreon button found on the blog post (at the bottom). Thank you!

      Reply ↓

To summarize, the screen its self is only about 200 and is likely the only thing you could have damaged , the APIM is big money but is very unlikley you damaged that becaused its back behind the screen and is almost impossible for water to get into. . . . . I LEARNED A LESSON, ALWAYS COVER A FRONT DASH ESPECIALLY A NEWER ONE

http://fordtechlane.com/myford-touch-problems-consider-this-reboot-workshop/#comment-145694

Thanks guys for the responses, and for your recommendations I will try both pinstriping and the Puffy paint ,
Im not sure that i would want the liability of removing the rear window on these type vehicles but then again i guess it must be almost required to get a perfect job and probably even more so on even older vehicles. {sounds like a 1000 dollar tint job to me]  

I have done about 5 of these trucks and most have the whole window but this last one had the slider,they both suck!.  . . is it even possible hand cut a zero light gap edge against an irregular seal with no border, and then butting the hand cut tint directly against the irregular seal, and expect to neither to have a light gap nor lift because of being to long,.  . .  
its so irregual that  I put a factory edge of the tint against the factory straight edge of the slidder and there was a very slight light gap

Do all tinters resort to blackout concoctions for these jobs?

How well do plotters do with these but jointint to irregular edges, 

Again thanks guys for the assitance

i just recently did a ford f150,  i told the customer ahead of time that the seals on these trucks are grity dirty and uneven and i have have to cut against them, however when i completed he seemed to completely forget me telling him that. . .. i didn't complete it until about sundown [6 occlock]so i could not really see any light leaks and i told him i would come back and black out any light leaks. when i came back the next day he bluntly told me how unsatisfied he was with the light leaks. . . .[This is a first time a custy straight up told me he didnt like my work. . .]  and to be HONEST I WAS NOT SATISFIED EITHER. . . . . . So my question for all the tinters more experinced than me.  

How do you go about cutting a perfect seal against an uneven metal/rubber trim is there a technique i'm missing? . i especially have trouble when going around the rounded back bottom corners !

do you guys youse black out tape? Paint markers? Silicone? different type of razor?

Side note . it seems that the previous tinter that did this truck many years before me used some type of 1/4 black out on the outside of the glass arround the back seals to hide light gaps from the previous install. . . . it doesn't seem to be normal black out tape that 44 tools sells as it wraps arround the rounded corners with out binding up and has a very strong adhesive as it out lasted the original tint on the truck which is likely over 15 years old.

I would really appreciate any suggestions, I told him i would try to find and thinner black out tape and come back with that, ideally im trying to find the original tape that was used on the bg as seemed to hold up very well.

i give all customers a 99 percent guarantee that it wont work after removal. [not joking] altho funny LOL. i live in florida so its not that big of a deal.  Ive even had some defroster lines that just come off right along with the tint when steaming and peeling tint off in one piece . . . . .,, its not worth my time frustratingly finessing the removal of a BG while attempting not to "hurt" a defroster line. . . but then again a i HATE BG REMOVALS ...  and would rather not do them. . . . in my mind the value of should equal the value of a install.  its more time, more frustration, more work than tinting, .  when i tell customers this they generally refuse to pay even over a 100 bucks for a removal . as a result i proudly don't do many bg removals 

Recently i had the opportunity to use AEGIS films.. . .  i did several cars with and every install came extremely clean. . .  NO SPECS ANYWHERE. . . .  I COULD NOT FIND ANY. . . .  now i am by no means the best tinter and unfortunately i always get a spec or 2 no matter how hard i try to avoid them all. . . . but it boggled my mine how i could do nothing different but use a different film other my normal Global/ Gareware Hp and Nr 1.5 mil. . .  and it made all the difference in the world . . . so i decided to check there site out and little behold there is mention of a proprietary adhesive formula :
 

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Our proprietary formula allows our films to adhere to the dot matrix and defrost lines better than most and reduces potential failure points.

SOURCE :http://aegisfilms.com/Automotive/high performance/
 

So in other words it alludes to the fact of being able to "wrap around" protrusions  lay down around them minimizing air gap. . .  to be honest i did not pay attention to dot matrix so i can not speak for the accuracy of this statement, but what i can speak for is that this same "proprietary formula " seems to be working very well for adhering between the specs and not allowing an air gap to form . . . another amazing feature of the film i noticed is that creases lines or the notorious finger creases that happen on left and right gasket seals [on door windows when you go to install the bottom piece of the film] go down with amazing ease with a little heat . . . . . I have never been able to make a 1inch crease line just disappear after its already installed with heat. . . . its like this  film loves covers all imperfections. . . 

 TO SUMMARIZE. .  ..  this film allows me to achieve SUPER CLEAN installs with little effort

I know this sounds like a commercial but its NOT. . . im just a average tinter that has been tinting for several years. . . .  and am always looking for a way to make my installs come out cleaner. .. 

SO MY QUESTIONS IS FOR YOU GUYS . . . .

-what do you guys know about AEGIS, is it good quality film[besides my observations] , does it fade etc, your opinions

-Are more films able to do what this AEGIS does or is truly unique to them . . . . . or does just global/gareware suck when it comes to hiding /fixing imperfections Because with gareware/global nr and hp 1.5 no matter HOW MICROSCOPIC  the spec is when it drys it will causes a air gap around the spec , also if there is a crease line it will NOT GO DOWN , short of heating the film until it melts which most often just screws it up. . . .and if there is a crease finger in the left in right seal of a door window from the bottom instal of the film it does not like to lay with out a lot of working it heat. . . .

-should i try quick dry plus or the 1 mil window film from gareware/global[ my thinking is the stronger adhesion from qdp and or the thinner 1mil film might lay down better in these deffects]

in the mean time the global gare 1.5 nr hp films keeps me working HARD to in my never ending quest for perfection  

I

57 secons. . . .  what about the 2 minutes of checking to see if it would even lay down flat. . . it was more of a guess,  . . . .i have no room to talk as im not the fastest tinter BUT. . . . the video seem like a croc, they should start from scratch with a full dirty back window, clean it , soap/dryer sheet it, let dry, cut it, lay down, h / - line pattern it,  shrink it / prep inside, install, and to top it off do it on a moderately difficult window. . . 

im curious how fast some could truly do this. . . .  

hi roach , does your SEO guy have a new website, that site is down:(

Hi shades tint. . I don't have any inside looking out pics but I have A bunch of outside looking in pics on my google Drive @ https://goo.gl/XABdU0 . . . check it out . . .the color matches factory dyed glass almost perfectly . . . Every single one of these cars was done with Gareware Sun Control (same OEM that makes global)the film is in NR CHARCOL 1.5 mil and in the pictures it shows all use of all shades of 5 20 35 40and 50. The film handles amazingly and is color stable!

Sun control which is made by Gareware[global] comes in at **5$ on there websiste for a 36 inch roll and is color stable
The price is here http://suncontrolusa.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=4_6
  From my experience is indistinguishable in handleing and shrinking compared to global. { I use both} suncontrol for the cheapos and global for the high performance. I have friends of mine that i did over 2 years ago in the suncontrol and it has not faded a bit!

The only thing difference I could tell between the 2 is optical clarity. but it is almost unnoticeable.I actually just noticed it the other day for the first time after havin on for over 2 weeks. I have global hp 35 on sides and 50 suncontrol on the windshield and there is a very very very slight difference in optical clairy but if it wasnt for the fact they were right next to each other there is no way youd ever tell


Best wishes. . . 
If anyone has a cheaper film that has the quality/color stable /forgiveness and shrinkability of Gareware Suncontrol. . .LET ME KNOW

[ I am not supposed to give the price even if its online]