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Posts posted by Tint Slayer
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The formula you ask to find TSER is:
TSER = 0.43*VLR + 0.03*%UV + 0.54*IRR
we already know the TSER but would need to verify IRR from given TSER
reversing and figuring to find the IRR from the given TSER:
(TSER - (0.43*VLR + 0.03*UV)) / .54
so if the TSER is 48 and the VLR is 9 and th UV is 99, then:
(48 - (0.43*9 + 0.03*99)) / .54
=76.2222 IRR
just copy past this line into google search with your spec numbers replacing the TSER, VLR and UV:
(TSER - (0.44*VLR + 0.03*UV)) / .54
The resulting IRR number seems a little high, which makes me wonder how the manufacturers figure it
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On 9/27/2017 at 0:09 PM, Bham said:
Hey tint tool distributors.
Could we possibly get a search or a good chart for all the hard cards and turbo's etc. etc. ... that is based on a Durometer Chart (hardness chart) ?
Rather than having to click on each tool and see which hardness strength it falls in between, could SOMEONE put together an easy to read chart that shows them in order from soft to hard.
Might as well include which is better for which somewhere in there. ( i.e. - good for tint / good for ceramic tint / good for PPF etc. )
Just a thought that might make searching and ordering the correct tools in the proper hardness strength a little easier.
I FULLY CONCUR
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3 hours ago, IPATinting said:
I like the harder one, I bought one from window film supplies and then my harder one I have been using off of amazon. Can't seem to find it on amazon so I may get the orange turbo off of window film supplies. Will too hard of a squeegee leave trash? Mr paladin
I like the Clear better than the Orange for cleaning, the Orange has a drag about it that i don't work well with.
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I tell them it's like when i have to pee, i can't do it with you watching.
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If you're really good you'll never be satisfied with your work, it's when you think you know it all is when you lose your edge. Just figure you'll always be learning.
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On 9/20/2017 at 11:13 AM, Jesus Freak said:
Ok,😎 I know what you mean. He actually removed the hardtop to do it yesterday. It came out 💯 % better! I would take a picture, but you wouldn't be able to see anything but black and red defroster lines.👍
How long before I can clean the film and what do you use?
Nothing with ammonia in it.
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On 9/22/2017 at 3:48 PM, DOOTINT said:
Learn to cut/place a nice pattern and you dont need a file?
And how are you supposed to file the deep back corners? But maybe possible with a super thin fine craftsmen ignition file to some degree
The small hobby file kits at walmart have the small files to get back there, i wedge a Black Little Foot just below cut to help spread between glass, i use the small round file, has a good point to get in there, but any of them can reach in.
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13 hours ago, flat rock stan said:
Everyone likes um different. Some people like a new blade every car and some like me they work best with a old rusty blade. Blades are about 8 cents each so pretty cheap.
Cheers.
I can blade shave or file but only if they ask. I use those thin carbon blades in my olfa for cutting the top, i've been playing around with using the back of the thin carbon blade in a firm sawing action to shave the edge.
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On 6/5/2016 at 2:14 AM, tintpimp1 said:On 6/4/2016 at 11:38 PM, Shadebyblade said:
Those rock. I'll take two. Can I get on in blue and one red?
You know they have a clear teflon tape to wrap the edge of your hard cards now. Pretty cool stuff
Do you know where i could buy that tape? @tintpimp1
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4 minutes ago, Midtown Houston said:
I don't know what to tell you...I guess you wouldn't want to give that dude a gun to hold.
Only if i gave it to him with a pack of cigarettes and said the gun was a lighter.
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14 minutes ago, Midtown Houston said:
Why would you want to do that? . If you had a 4 post lift and decided to push up on the rear bumper, do you think it might fall? It work and it work good that all I know.
LoL I don't WANT to do that, but if someone around me does something to push it and i'm under it i'd be concerned. I like to know a products limitations before i get it, not after. I've seen cars fall off more secure lifts. Thanks for the reply.
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15 hours ago, Midtown Houston said:
This is a must buy... Quickjack for ppf, wrap, and ceramic coating install.
I saw videos on that holding 3 times its max weight. My only concern is the side to side, like if you pushed really hard on the drivers door will it roll the ramp over in the short direction? I'm wondering how much force would make that happen. I would still want to pop some jack stands under there to be safe lol
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11 hours ago, shadytints said:
front, back and middle sides open. can keep one open for air. can't be worse then some of the shops i worked in, can't tell you how many times I or we came close to dehydration last summer. important to know the signs of it and preventing it.
They have stand alone ac units with a heat exhaust hose, maybe add an air filter.
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Just now, jh812 said:
Oh hey man i've seen your videos, good stuff. that's what i do as well when i can, getting it back on is the sucky part sometimes
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10 hours ago, otterslide said:
Wow, that's equal to about 15cc for me, since I am adding to a 950ml spray bottle. So I definitely need more it seems. 2oz of JJ right? Which would be 59cc/ml.
I figured out from all the stuff people written all over the internet that the magic number is 6-8 mls per 1 liter or a 32 oz bottle almost full (1 liter = 33.8ozs)). There are 30 mls in an ounce, so this agrees with the 1 oz a gallon (equals 30mls a gallon, almost 4 liters in a gallon so that would be about 7 mls a liter etc).
I use 8 mls a liter with both JnJ and Joy Non-Ultra (i use Joy, don't like JnJ). when i do back glass or need extra slip i add 2 mls extra at a time. I use the pump from an old Purell hand sanitizer bottle screwed on my bottle of Joy Non-Ultra, pumps out about 2 mls a pump, each liter gets 4 pumps. People seem to vary wildly on amounts.
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17 minutes ago, jh812 said:
I always worn three customer right to start with. Hey you're gonna hear some noises you're not gonna like
is it on youtube?
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6 minutes ago, DOOTINT said:
Panel/seals are all diff and some top of door panels are higher than the seal and some types you have to start with the window lower to slide it to that perfect edge so binding sucks for most
when you said door panel higher than seal it made me think of this ford ranger i did where the panel is like that and slopes upwards a little by the mirror end of panel, sucky tuck. so it sounds like finesse is better than bungee.
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1 minute ago, DOOTINT said:
GWs suck when pulled tight with bungee cords=it binds against the glass down at the bottom and the film wont slide past that bottom edge
I thought the idea was for it to bind like that so it would have clearance, how far down is the bind?
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9 hours ago, quality tintz said:
Hang one or two gallons of water on each bungee....i mean one gallon on each bungee...two per door
gallon of water weighs 8.34 pounds, i have two 10 pound vinyl covered kettlebell sitting in the basement doing nothing, maybe i'll give that a shot.
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4 hours ago, Jkatfelix said:
Not talking crap or anything but just out of curiosity why not learn to remove window gaskets...
That's what i currently do, it's not like pulling gaskets is brain surgery, but some very competent people are using the GW and saying why pull gaskets.
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1 hour ago, Jesus Freak said:
everybody here is looking at these pics and making a negative sounding tone of disapproval out loud when they see each pic
More Slip when using Global?
in Window Tinting - General Discussion
Posted
Installing QDP with JnJ didn't work well for me, it was too fast to tack, i use Joy Non-Ultra and it works well, i usually use 10mls per 32oz bottle (or per 1 liter), sometimes more, i add 2 mls at a time when i need more, i have a 32 oz bottle with closer to 20mls for back windows or tight situations.