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using white card currently for sides
you can buy these cards anywhere..in a rush?...order from amazon. they sell a triple color kit for like 10 bucks
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unroll onto back deck .. reslip the film and then get under the film and apply..
unrolling on the back deck allows an opportunity to reslip the film
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keep them tips rolling tks man
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installed sunday...worked on bubbles last night..so 3 days later.
on sunday when i first worked on the bubbles they kept rebubbling...(slip was getting sucked back in)= push bubble out the side..original bubble would resurface.
last night started with chizler..but then just used my finger and 75% just pushed down and gone...remaining 20% pushed into defroster line..5% (start of the bubble line no longer white color but would not push down =adhesive dried out...looks like some bits of dust etc...really not noticeable .
the other smaller bubble majority just pushed down with my finger ..little leftover bubble pushed to defroster line...5% leftover is again not noticeable.
also pleased with the .5" finger at the bottom that wouldnt lay down post install..last night carded it down finally with yellow bigfoot...at least 5 mins later it was still down..ill check it again this week.
seems like the easy cure for the original bubbles was to let the BG dry out for a few days and them down.
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On 5/21/2018 at 6:28 PM, Fredward said:
Hey all. I am a consumer. Doing research on tint for my 4runner. Looking at crystalline or huper. I want the front windshield done but I have questions about legality.
When I look at the tint law charts there isn't a state that gives a percent for the front windshield. They all just give the as1 line or inches but the tint shops here (tx) will stick cr90 but won't do cr70.
So I guess my question is is the cr90 just light enough hat no one gets fines ever and is actually still illegal or is there an actuall vlt% allowance on the windshield?
Thanks!
I think the answer to your question is "yes" . .. you will probably enjoy the solar heat rejection value
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update.
started pushing out the line bubble with chisler...
then just used my finger and 85% of the bubble is gone just by pressing with finger..the leftovers i used your tips and pushed with my finger towards defroster..small circular part start of the line bubble remains ..but now not noticeable.
the small bubble 2nd photo just pressed around with finger and 95% pressed down.
managed to also press down a 1/2" finger which was stubborn after install down by bottom edge by dot matrix.
tks for the tips guys.
sometimes just need to let these suckers dry out a bit and they will press down
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got it..tks to all for the tips....ill try it when i get access to the car again this week
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ahhhh...so once i push out to line up with defroster...the bubble should dissapate....
or if i still see bubble..should i attempt to slight push out towards the side ( following defroster line) which would help move out air/moisture along the def line?
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so dont try to push it all out thru the sides?
if i line it up to the defroster line...i will leave a bubble at the defoster??
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do you think waiting a week is too long to card these bubbles out?
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thanks man..after initial install i was carding these out but they kept returning...its been several days so maybe they will card out without resurfacing after having a few days of curing n drying
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re: line bubble...
line bubble is thin..maybe 2-3 cm...about 1.5-2" long..
will it dry out ...or any suggestions here?
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been marking the pulls on the box...
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when heat shrinking rear glass. do you shrink /card it smooth or shrink with glove/towel where you still have the wrinkly stuff leftover
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helps to know what type of shrinking you are doing on the back glass.
wet/ dry/ soap etc.
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film brand unknown..bought off ebay ..marketed as suntek..but im confident its not...did meter out to the marketed vlt shade though.
car is a 2012 camry..the pic is of side slide window.
its been 2 weeks since applied...you still think a water bubble like this will dry out?
car is garaged when not driven as a daily driver so its not exposed to sun all day
i have to redo the window for other reasons..but asking about these bubbles so i know how to improve the redo
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okay...and they said it well if they catch fingernails
staying with the glass scratches problem...
one option..low costs...buy glass polish..buy a reputable brand...and use microfiber towel and hand polish them out..see what you are left with.
id give it a few weeks after that...and your headache will probably go away or will lessen to a certain degree.
replacing rear glass requures breaking factory seals ..good glass shops can do this job well..but may want to think twice about having this done to a brand new car.
side slide windows...seems less intrusive...but the door panels will have to be removed and the installer will have to set the new glass correctly in position...(and reinstall your panel correctly)...door panels never seem to seat the same after removal..i have some squeky door panels on one of our older cars....and another door panel the dealer did not correctly install it..its off a hair..but given its age...its not an issue for me to look into further.
both options opens you up to potentially more headaches and install issues...both options also require retinting your windows.
likely you wont go back to the sane shop
likely the next shop you go to wont be able to match the film exactly to what you have ( i could be wrong)
this is why i suggested you may want to consider living with it ( as it relates to what to do with the scratches)
if its any consolation...your glass will scratch and mar and etch from normal driving and washing during your ownership.
good luck with whichever way you proceed
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does your finger catch on the scratch?
run your fingernail backwards lightly over the scratch and see if the tip of your fingernail catches...if not.mshould be able to polish it out...
if the nail catches..it wont polish out
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tks guys...the tips worked ...
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welcome back man
i can only offer suggestion with how to potentially get rid of the scratches....
DA polisher with glass polish...this will only work for loght surface scratches...maybe looking at 150 bucks bw polisher ..pads and glass polish..and you can use the DA polisher to polish /wax your new car..
if you go this diy route..research the right pad and only buy glass polish..std auto paint polish will marr your glass...glass polish is designed to polish glass....
another option is to go to a reputable car detailer whom would offer you glass polishing service...id ask to see their glass polish first to make sure they have the right product..the label will say "....glass polish..." if they show you anything else which does not label as glass polish..id walk away and find someone else.
good luck man
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13 minutes ago, ErieTint said:
You can do it. Just need to keep the film taught and trip the lever. An extra hand wouldn't hurt.
Easiest way would be a small piece of glass that you could put samples on of your film.
there we go....great tip...im gona try that her3 in a few mins lol tks
Best slip solution ratio?
in Window Tinting - General Discussion
Posted
6 squirts from baby shampoo pump...to the .27 gallon pump dispenser
for the back window 10 squirts ..probably too much but for me I need the extra slip back there.