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badluckmodel3

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  1. I have seen this hazy/blurry effect (sometimes with very small squiggles) in the following films - Llumar Stratos - Llumar Pinnacle - 3M Ceramic IR - STEK NEX (antimony tin oxide, tungsten, carbon, graphene) Is the benefit of dry shrink method to shrink a larger area at a time, since it is not bounded by water's surface tension? Thus reducing the thermal and mechanical stress in the film?
  2. Yes I did change shop. The images you responded to were from previous 2 shops, with Llumar Stratos/Pinnacle and 3M Ceramic IR. They tried to brush these issues away as they are not in the middle of driver's view box, and that's when I realized they do not have good work ethics. STEK was installed by the 3rd shop, and had the hazing issue shown in the 1st post in this thread, where you mentioned it could also be caused by "metalizing".
  3. I don't believe the issue is the glass. Regarding paint, that's CA mandating all cars manufactured there must use eco paint. I thought about this problem, and I believe this can be explained with mechanics of materials. I hypothesize the issue we are experiencing is due to Tesla's exteme glass curvature, causing the tint process to strain the film beyond it's elastic regime and causing significant plastic deformation (strain means deformation of material, or stretching). This effect is called crazing. See here for a high level physics discussion. This effect is seen when you stretch a clear plastic bag to the point where it becomes opaque, indicating the molecular chain realignment in plastic deformation regime is distorting the light transmission. Evidence from both of our cases - defects occurred near the edges of the film - tint shrink process stretches the film starting from the middle, and strains the film outward toward edges and corners - tint install squeegees the film outward toward edges and corners - defects distort the light transmission, makng the film opaque and crazed Now the question is does this happen during the heat shrink process outside the car, or during the squeegeeing process inside the car? I believe it is more likely that the shrink process outside the window is the origin of this crazing effect, because - polymers are very sensitive to temperature, eg tints become "rubbery" immediately when exposed to heat gun used to shrink - no scar marks are seen from squeegeeing
  4. @Squigglylines Looks like the same problem I'm having. Your image looks like a Tesla to me. I just had mine redone with STEK NEX 35% front as well, also with some streaks. The streaks weren't as bad as the Ceramic IR though
  5. @Tintguy1980@highplains Went back to the shop and re-tint with STEK NEX instead of 3M Ceramic IR at 35%. I observed the whole process. This time, the hazy streaks still exists but in different location. The haze are mostly at the bottom based on my eyes. Thus, we can rule out it being the adhesive. What other possible reasons can this be? Film being over-stretched during shrink? Note: installer uses baby shampoo as slip solution
  6. Thanks @highplains for the info. The installers are willing to reinstall with STEK NEX. I cannot find many reviews for this film, so I don't know what to expect regarding the quality comparing to 3M or Llumar. I only know it is similar to crystalline, but graphene is just one of those material science hypes that fail to live up to most of the expectations Here are results of some of the re-tints, which in my non-expert opinion are not acceptable
  7. Are you referring to the specific module that had issues ridge after Model 3 launch? From my research that specific module seem to be properly epoxied now.
  8. Thanks for the feedback. I didn't notice the dust specks, and I'm fine with it. Regarding the adhesive residues, do you usually use acetone or other solvents to chemically remove the adhesives, or do you scrape it off mechanically with towels or razors? Good point on your assessment in absorption of ceramics, contrary to reflection with graphene-based films. However this shop only has STEK NEX for graphene-based films, and very few reviews exist in the public forums. Part of the reason for going with 3M Ceramic IR is because my hands feel more heat from the heat lamp when comparing Crystalline versus Ceramic IR, despite the superior IR rejection metrics of crystalline. I suspect ceramics absorb wider range of wavelengths, whereas crystalline reflects narrower window of wavelengths and transmits more light (making them more "clear"?).
  9. Obviously your response is solely based on the number of retints, and you did not consider any of the factors I provided that led to those retints. For the current tint, the distortions are within the depths of field of me during driving, and they distract my focus points every time. Look at the video I provided, which represents the blurry effects across the windshield, then tell me if you think this is acceptable to see during driving. While you're at the topic of batteries, energy storage decreases by 5% after 100,000 miles, and 20% after 400,000 miles. Maybe you need to be reasonable?
  10. I suppose this won't go away with sunlight baking then. Is it terribly difficult to remove residual glue? Previous 3M Ceramic IR was left on the car for over 4 weeks.
  11. Hi all, I am in dire need for advises and opinions. I have spent countless hours tinting and re-tinting my front windshield in 3 shops, and in each shop weird things happen. Previously I went to 2 different tint shops to get my Model 3 tinted for total of 7 times. Both shops had quality issues with the front tint---including numerous light gaps, deep scratches, creases, and weird adhesive distortions (that do not go away after 4 weeks of sun bake). I tried Llumar Stratos 40%, Pinnacle 40% and 3M Ceramic IR 35%, and all had unacceptable problems. Turns out the owners of the shop do not do tints themselves. I went to the 3rd tint shop and installed 3M Ceramic IR 35%. The tint shop owner was also the tinter, and had no light gaps or deep cuts. However, there are multiple regions on the tint spread across the windshield with haze or blur to it. They are most visible near the bottom of the front windshield due to its acute angles. Some are within my view box, and I can see them when looking at lanes and vehicles ahead. I can feel the bumpy textures when I run my fingernails over them. They are shaped somewhat rectangular and sits horizontally, as if they align with the directions of the squeegees. Questions 1. Do you think the blurry effects are due to adhesive curing? This tint is now 5 days old and was baked daily. Will this go away after a week or so? 2. Are the blurry effects due to ceramic materials inside the films? I cannot visibly see this in my other Honda vehicles with 3M Crystalline 40. If I change the tint to Crystalline or STEK NEX, will this issue go away? Thanks! A very tired tint shopper Video of the hazy/blurry effect can be seen here https://i.imgur.com/EN6NCKc.mp4 Macro shots of the blurry regions are shown below
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