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Security filmhandler improvement


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We had 13000 sf of 11 mil to install and since it was too wiggly off the roll to cut we had to work out a system of accurately feeding it into the blades. We took 4 strips of 1/8 aluminum the width of the cutter and with 1/8 inch spacers of aluminum in between two long strips made two "boxes" to slide the tint into. We had one high near the roll and one low to the blades. we connected them with thick vertical metal strips on each side and clamped the feed throught to the cutter. It worked pretty well but not the precision of a regular filmhandler, but if you have used that thick tint you are going to seal the edges or have a daylight install anyway.

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I think I understand. We madw a bunch of big washers out of drywall mud bucket lids. They slip over the core and just use as many as nec to pack it out to the filmhandler roller and keep the film from sliding back an forth on the core as you roll it out, works pretty well for security and graffiti film when the film is in from the edge of the core

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Once you go into 7 mil or thicker, you either have a real hard time or flat out can't cut the tint on the glass. It has to be cut to fit off the glass. So you end up with a cutting table. We were just shooting for factory edges and the "device" helped get good pull cuts to save extra motion.

Good tip on the washers.

A safety film handler has larger diameter roller wheels like 6" and the tint comes 75 feet to the roll. I don't think most shops would use one that much. But the little 3" wheel standard ones are worth their weight in gold. Thats why I purchased this new machine, buy new 3" wheels and I have two.

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Do you have any pictures of this modification? I have twice had my cutter heads break encountering that exact problem with the slop in the safety films. I was pissed too!

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They slip over the core and  just use as many as nec to pack it out to the filmhandler roller and keep the film from sliding back an forth on the core as you roll it out, works pretty well for security and graffiti film when the film is in from the edge of the core

Filmhandler actually has shims for that very purpose. Brent W. and I worked together on the film shift issue a couple years ago. The shims are 1/8 and 1/4's. :thumb

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Filmhandler actually has shims for that very purpose. Brent W. and I worked together on the film shift issue a couple years ago. The shims are 1/8 and 1/4's. :)

:thumb didn't know that metint just never saw them I guess. I just checked them out :) a little pricey but I can understand why with the machining and all

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Filmhandler actually has shims for that very purpose. Brent W. and I worked together on the film shift issue a couple years ago. The shims are 1/8 and 1/4's. :thumb

:thumb didn't know that metint just never saw them I guess. I just checked them out :) a little pricey but I can understand why with the machining and all

I thought the same too when they finally brought the shims to market, but like you say, it's all in the machining.

Brent had been looking at the shim idea when I called him to ask if they had complaints about lateral film drift. I had thought shims would work at the time I called. He had problems with the shims moving so I gave him the hook idea that allows the shim to grab the existing stationary crossbar on the handler.

They do work great, and could get real pricey, if you had 2 sets for mix and match use. This would give you multiple variations in width and help with the uneven placement the film has on either side of the core. :)

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