Lauty Posted April 18 Report Share Posted April 18 Hey everyone im still kind of new to forums, anyways this weekend i will be going out to a dealership to tint a mastercraft x 2016 i gave the client a quote of 300 since i was not too sure how the pricing works for boats however as i get closer to the date i keep getting more nervous since ive never done a boat. Please leave some tips and tricks to make sure everything goes smooth with my client Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TintDude Posted April 18 Report Share Posted April 18 Boats, in my opinion, are on another level compared to auto and residential. They are dirty, the glass is at weird angles, usually there are sliding windows that are a real pain in the butt. Cramped conditions, lots of walking etc. They aren't fun. That boat looks like it just has a windshield, so that's good. Maybe wont be such a pain. pbalentine and Dano 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TintDude Posted April 18 Report Share Posted April 18 Looks like some of them have curved glass. Dano 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TintDude Posted April 18 Report Share Posted April 18 Oh my pbalentine 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dano Posted April 18 Report Share Posted April 18 I start those at $750 and go up. Best advice is no cutting on the glass and white scrubbie only, no cleaning blades. That glass is super soft. You may want to use a film liner to make a template to cut your patterns. pbalentine 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lauty Posted April 18 Author Report Share Posted April 18 3 minutes ago, Dano said: I start those at $750 and go up. Best advice is no cutting on the glass and white scrubbie only, no cleaning blades. That glass is super soft. You may want to use a film liner to make a template to cut your patterns. Where can i get a white scrubbie at locally like stapels, home depot, etc. dont have one in my toolbox yet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dano Posted April 18 Report Share Posted April 18 Amazon Lauty 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tintguy1980 Posted April 19 Report Share Posted April 19 I use(d) these that are readily available through grocery stores; on installs that should not have a blade running across their surface. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Scotch-Brite-3PK-Dobie-Cleaning-Pad/580762256?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101033794&gclsrc=aw.ds&&adid=22222222227580762256_101033794_160178497084_20981201920&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=689850595863&wl4=pla-2274697737319&wl5=9008682&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=255470249&wl11=online&wl12=580762256_101033794&veh=sem&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyo335LbOhQMVo0tHAR1HpQC8EAQYASABEgKydfD_BwE Need to know whether the boat has glass or does it have plexiglass (acrylic) or Lexan (poly-carbonate). Glass is not worrisome, the other two are. Plexi will blister from out-gassing in no time at all, whereby, Poly-carbonate is a crap shoot as to when and how serious, if any, blistering of film occurs. Both Plexi and Ploy may also be difficult to remove, if the need arises down the road mainly getting the adhesive of without damaging the surface. Both should not be warranted given the aforementioned potentials and these conditions should be discussed with the owner. Dano and Lauty 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lauty Posted April 20 Author Report Share Posted April 20 Thx everyone for the tips the install went fine, however i did run into a new problem on the main curve of the glass from thr outside the tint would lay flat on the big curve but when applying it seemed like there was too much tension and it would not stay down i ended up heating it up and flattening down but some of that area got overheated and warped a little, if you know how to tackle this problem please help me thank you! pbalentine and Dano 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dano Posted April 21 Report Share Posted April 21 The answer is to not heat that area too much so that you leave some slack in the film for when you get it to the inside. Also cut your pattern a little large so that you can trim a thread off the edges after shrinking to not have a furled edge. After you do a few of those you'll figure out how much to leave/trim to not have any light gaps. Also I'll leave a hardcard wrapped in a microfiber in the bottom overnight to collect water and keep pressure on the film while it dries. Sometimes you can take the top rail off the glass if the jackwagon boat builder didn't put too much pressure on the glass package when it was installed. If you pull the rail off of a tight package it's a pita to get back on, looking like it could crack the whole time. Congrats on getting it done. I've seen plenty that couldn't, which is why I price them like I do. Lauty 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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