dan_kohan

yeah, I just had to change a few things up this year. I'm getting old and I was realizing how much more time it was taking me to remove and re install seals and door panels especially on certain types of vehicles. It only makes sense to charge a little bit extra for the time it takes to do the job you want to do it. Even an extra 25.00 to yank seals out that only takes an extra 2-5 minutes can help out in paying over head and stuff like that in the long run. sometimes I will charge an extra 50.00 - 100.00 for door panel removal and reinstall, all it comes down to is how much longer is it going to take you and charge accordingly. 

I even have large wall stopwatch clocks mounted in my bay to time my jobs. If someone is only paying me for an hour and a half of my time then I definitely keep an eye on the clock and make sure I get it out the door within that time they are paying me for. I'm busy enough so I don't need to be bending over backwards for cheap customers anymore and spending twice as long on their vehicles than what they are paying me for while they sit and wait then have the nerve to keep asking me how much long longer until it's done. so annoying. 

I used to pull seals out and remove panels on pretty much everything, now I offer the customer to do the installation one or two ways, top load or bottom load. They are gonna pay me more for any removal and reinstall but get a way higher quality job with less prone to peeling. If they want to be cheap then so be it. I tuck it and out the door it goes. No warranty for peeling from the bottom and if there's a little extra dirt in the installation or creases from doing the tucking method then you get what you pay for. time is money, if anything peels from the bottom I charge a fee for doing it the way I wanted to do it the first time. No more free bee's around here.

The film is always the first to blame  but 99% of the time if there's peeling issues, it's the installer. 

install it properly and you won't have peeling issues. Do you top load film or remove seals and bottom load it?

what the heck is a back blade pass...?

I'll be honest with you man I would stock at least 2 or 3 different grades of films, get some cheap film from nexfil to compete with the cheaper shops and get customers in the door with tempting pricing then show them the difference between all the films you carry. color, thickness and heat rejection with a heat lamp. Once they are able to see and feel the difference between the quality of films then they will understand why they are paying 350.00 - 450.00 to tint their car. I have been making a killing using this strategy over the last year and a bit.

This is what I would suggest:

1)Nexfil window film- 1 ply or 2 ply ( which ever you prefer) chip infused dyed window film - very cheap in price to compete with low ballers (non color stable film which WILL FADE)

2)Express window films / global - color stable window film if you like using that product.  I personally use solar free window films nano-carbon window film. VERY reasonably priced so you can offer a higher grade film but doesn't break the bank( love these guys)

3)Nano-Ceramic film, This is where you will need a heat lamp to really show customers how much heat these films block and why they are paying 400 plus for a tint job haha.

   express window films stocks a ceramic film which is priced very well as well as Solar free window films. I'm sure there are a few more out there that have good pricing as well but those are the only 2 that I came across that aren't super expensive.

It takes a different technique to shrink the true smoke and true black. I would say if you want something cheap go with nexfil professional chip infused film or the classic black from express if you want a nice color stable film which will hold up well against fading. the nexfil film is a good stating film for cheap customers. that is what I use as my entry level film and make some good money off of it.

got as low as -50 up here , zero comebacks. Obviously it takes me a lot longer to do the job since I let vehicles warm up and dry a bit once I'm done. I also pull rubbers and panels, only rarely tuck on a select few vehicles. Those of you who tuck everything...enjoy the comebacks. haha

NORTHERN TINT is either reboxing EWF or Nexfil.

Easier and cheaper for you to buy direct form either of those sources.

does it really make a difference if you store your film in a temperature controlled environment.... what if it get's really hot in your shop ... lol what happens to it? or if it gets really cold...?

whats the average amount of cars you can get out of a 100 ft roll of film.