callwild

Not only has the plastic been damaged and the creases left, it looks as if the tint does not go to the edge of the glass and there is a gap where it should be in the window channel !!

It should not have left the shop in this condition !

On 5/27/2023 at 5:30 PM, TintDude said:

 

The most important point to pick up from this video is that all the slack & wrinkles are pushed from the centre towards the top and bottom by forming fingers and shrinking them, NOT the sides. Start with a H lock down with the middle laying flat accross to the sides and kep this flat. Do not push anyything to the sides. (Although is some more advanced techniques side fingers may be shrunk, but that comes with more experience.)

I have seen scratches like this from tinting. If when shrinking the roll downs the tint is moved around the window to shrink in sections the tint is moved down the glass to shrink the top edge. then as shrinking the hard card runs above the tint and up the glass a short way. I have had this happen on some glass. Not as bad as this and one would hoepfully notice it staright away and stop. Certain types of card are worse at this. Not saying it is that and I agree with outhers that once the tint is on scratches that were there before are more easily seen,  But it is possibility when scrathes like this appear at the top of each window.

Well finally made it to retirement.

Tinting has given me a good business for the last 15 years but now have all my equipment clogging up my home so anyone wanting to take it off my hands is welcome.

Loads of tools , cards, squeegees, door card popper tools etc but the main large items wanting to see go to a good home are

DGI 60" Plotter

60" Filmhandler with Step Ladder stand.

Based in Cumbria (UK) for collection.

make me an offer or see ebay

Well finally made it to retirement.

Tinting has given me a good business for the last 15 years but now have all my equipment clogging up my home so anyone wanting to take it off my hands is welcome.

Loads of tools , cards, squeegees, door card popper tools etc but the main large items wanting to see go to a good home are

DGI 60" Plotter

60" Filmhandler with Step Ladder stand.

Based in Cumbria for collection.

make me an offer or see ebay

The tintschoolonline videos are an American based company.
However the Tint School UK https://tintschool.co.uk/about-us.asp is run by a very experienced and knowledgeable trainer Tim Haywood.
He also offers packages to start a franchise with his Ultimate Tinting group which may seem attractive. It will give a good start into the industry and help with initial enquires and work but in the long run its worth considering if you really want to be tied to a franchise. It may take a little longer to get going but once you have built up your own client base and reputation you would probably find to go it alone is better.
I set up in a unit by myself and got work straight away kept me going as a good business for 15 years and only stopped last year due to retirement.
Good luck
Stuart

PS I am just retiring and have a load of useful equipment such as plotter and film cutter available if interested

Due to recent retirement I have a large selection of Tinting Tools and Cutting Equipment for sale.

60" DGI OM-150 Plotter:  Original cost of £7,000 this great plotter has worked without a hitch on both Computer Cut for tint and Flexi-sign Pro for vinyl.

Included are Operator's Manual, 5M Serial Cable, USB cable adaptor, 2 x blade holders, 5 x assorted Blades for Vinyl, window film, Insignia Fabric and Security Films. 3 x Roll Holders with Core Locks and Allen key.
Purchaser must arrange collection.                     £2,000

60" Film handler with Step ladder support         £500

Merlin Glass Testing Kit                                        £200

Contact me here on DM or via

info@reflecta.co.uk

No it probably wont dry out , as Tintdude has already said. However work with a chizler and some heat could well make it less noticeable.
If the rest of the screen is perfect and it is not in eyeline then maybe best to let it go. I'd work on it with heat but do a redo runs the risk of some other small piece of contamination getting in somewhere else. 

Tinting Etiquette
Ignore what Clear Solutions has said above obviously not a professional himself !!!
From what you describe the install is a hack and not acceptable. However we can not be sure of the state of the imperfections without a photo to confirm.
What ever is fair is between the installer and yourself depending on how bad and what needs to be redone, its hard to comment again without seeing but it does not sound very good.

The obvious thing missing for me is you don't mention what Dual Reflective is !! All the attributes you list are the same for standard window films. Need to say they are less reflective on the inside !!
 

Awful. did they do it outside in a sandstorm  ? !!
I wouldn't want them to tint my car, tint off and money back or go to trading standards.

I've moved towards using the Thor's Hammer on all security film now after finding it gets more water out with first pass and can give more pressure.

https://44tools.com/thors-hammer/

I have had in the past very similar problems with security film when using Green Slime or shampoo.
I then tried "Film Handler Slip Ease" which seems to solve the problem and gives a much cleaner finish, so possibly try that.
Ryker's comment about not dragging moisture over bits already squeegeed is also good advice.
Security film has lots of differences to car films and is a frustrating skill to get to grips with, but like other tinting skills its practise and trying different methods , different, solutions, different cleaning regimes, different squeegee hardness etc.

One large shop window we did kept getting white streaks what ever we did. It had involved removal of old film first and even though the window had been scraped with blades, and scrubbed with white scrubby pads we kept getting streaks. Even had a Film Manufacturer consultant with 25+ years of installation experience come and look at the window and do an install himself. Same result.
Eventually we scrubbed every inch of the glass with isopropanol and wire wool for several hours until we could see water and slip solution run down the glass evenly without clearing in patches and used the slip ease. That got it done. So it was a massive learning curve for us and the consultant.
 

It's Pictures of these bubbles you mention that we need to see. It pretty much doesn't matter what squeegee you use there shouldn't be any bubbles (as such) visible.
Depending on your cleaning process, slip solution amd squeegee used your bubbles could be a variety of problems , but most likely are pockets around contamination.

Is there any sort of matt coating that can be installed to reduce reflections on shop windows ?
I thought I'd heard of one once but can not find any info now.

On 10/10/2018 at 6:45 PM, Ridler said:

Curious on this one why the spoiler has to come off. Can you expand on it please?

Lift & pull method needs room below the back glass to pull in the right direction.

I never go darker than 60% where its important for customers to see into the shop. 50% absolute max but even then the reflection spoils the view into the window.
Usually use a 60% spectrally selective film which gives roughly a 60% reduction in the causes of fading.
 

2 weeks after installing a 5% True Vue film from SG on a conservatory roof with tempered glass one of the panes shattered (See pic).
From my experience and knowledge it should not be the film that has caused this and my SG consultant has stated it could not be the film, but as the client says I was the last person to touch the glass they are holding me responsible. Any ideas what to say to customer ?

22 hours ago, redneckj said:

I never have to clean my bottles.  I use baby  WASH or tint slime.  The bottles stay clean.  

I get more black mold growth with Tint Slime than baby shampoo.

Just a note on this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68yiB8QT4Qw

Whenever I use a steamer like this I find the best method is to run the heat along where the film is coming away from the glass BUT on top of the tint NOT between the tint and glass as the video shows.

The method shown on the video, I find, separates the glue from the tint but the glue comes off with the film if you steam on top of the film.

Which do you do?

Reflecta

Window Film & Tinting

4B Ullswater Business Park

Ullswater Road

Penrith

Cumbria

CA11 7EH

01768 866262

www.reflecta.co.uk

Serving Northern England & Southern Scotland