justn8

Call TintTek for help. If it's bunching you're likely not cutting film 'on the pull'. There's a setting/number value on the last tab in the cut manager or whatever it's called. The field is 'Unidirectional cutting" have to change that value to 0" every time you cut tint. I used this software before the DAP and that value has to be changed everything, it's a pain in the ass.

Have any of them been ceramic coated? It's becoming more of a thing and film won't bond

Out of every soap I've used so far for slip... Dawn and Fusion All Type have been my personal favourites. Some guys don't like Dawn because it tends to bond quicker I guess. Every time I play with baby wash or baby shampoo I just get irritated.

On 9/11/2017 at 1:03 AM, blackoutauto said:

Yea, need to expand and actually  start walking through everyone's doors and offering samples and discounts on initial orders. Suntek did a good job here in Canada, as soon as they opened Canadian distribution, Rep walked into everyone's door.

That definitely was true. It's why I went with them, their customer service was great too. I just had to let go because I was sick of the issues with the tint. Shame because I actually loved dealing with them. But I'm really happy with the products I've come to settle on now.

Scratch coat sucked, wasn't a huge fan of Carbon's colour, crap in the film/quality issues, mediocre adhesive... The price and customer service were on point though lol. Shame.

Pretty ok? 100

Confident, encountered a lot, and can really say a 'pro'... 1000

Seasoned, 2000.

It's a trade, like anything else. 1000 cars is well under 5 years. How long does it take to become a licensed plumber?

You'll do a couple hundred and think you're the $#!^ and then have something toss you on your butt and the memories will come back from the beginning 

Stick to anything Korean or Japanese and you'll be fine basically, they are in general the simplest to tint for virtually every reason. Most 'American' vehicles are fine too (except what's been mentioned for certain issues). Avoid German's and high end vehicles. And this is being said if you have guidance, training and can self correct issues with your own work.

In a perfect, magical, unicorn filled world, I'd only tint new trucks and cheap foreign hatchbacks and as many as I wanted every single day. In that magical world, with a never ending stream of those, I'd be rich, happy, never ache and do whatever the $#%@ I wanted with my spare time 

Have a good system/order of things in place when you install and always follow it. Extra steps taken and trips around the vehicle add up on the clock, doing things out of order leads to slower working and more chances for mistakes/contamination/etc.

Ah hell. Have another one in here now.

Next one I do I'll mix a separate slip bottle with significantly less soap too and more time spent steel wooling.

I've never used Rapid Tac. How do you mix it up? Does it help?

Ya think he got his car tinted by now    

Good try

I'm sure your installer would be more than happy to explain the pros and cons of every line he carries. All other info is easily available here with a quick search.

There has to be a way to solve it.... I have no idea why some are so ridiculous for it! It's insane.

Ok, so finally someone else mentioned it. I'm not using the same film, but... holy hell, what is up with the god damned peanuts? I've done a couple Chrysler products that have been ridiculous with it. It makes no sense.

For the record, they were all with CXP 70. Very specific, had to be that film, by request. I have found certain new Chargers and 300's to be a peanut filled hell though. Why??

I have a pretty large Chrysler dealership I look after. Those newer 300's are a mixed bag, and I can't figure out if it's film or windows that's the issue. They either are completely fine with some steel wool/extremely fine sand paper or a huge PITA. Including the band of dots along the bottom. I can't peg what the issue is. One will be perfectly fine. The next one, a peanut filled nightmare. I was basically told there's two different places/companies that make Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep/Ram/Fiat's back windows and depending on the model or year, it is what it is. I don't get it. It's tint roulette.The messed up thing is, just by looking at any of them, the ones you don't think will be a problem, are one, and the ones you don't think will be, are a problem.

Get as much water out as possible obviously. Sun will take care of the rest. You'd be surprised how warm a tinted window gets in the sun, even when it's extremely cold out.

I had kind of suspected that some of the people making the patterns weren't really installers, at least not on any real scale.

My problem is I never take the time to call if something isn't right... which is bad, I know.

That's awesome, glad things are good!

CXP 70 on the windows, Sun-Tek pre-cut PPF on the the front bumper, headlights, hood, fenders, mirrors, rockers, splash areas and rear bumper deck (I only had this one pic, it might have been before the PPF was installed, can't remember, did the car in two visits).

Pretty sweet SRT-8, he had the stripe painted on (not vinyl), rear spoiler painted, it's meticulous. One of the last SRT-8 Chryslers in Canada, and the next one for him will likely be the last one made and sent here.

 

Windshield strips for new Ram's are... interesting.

I haven't seen or used one yet but for the record, it's not my handywork

Phone in if there's something wrong with it and they will make it right

 

I knew it wasn't yours. I can tell in general

I just honestly have no idea what they were thinking, it doesn't make much sense.

On a side note... Why are so many rear windows cut much larger than they need to be? In some cases it causes some issues with installing or can't be done because the edges catch and lift.

Hope all's well on your end Brad.

Windshield strips for new Ram's are... interesting.

Only thing I've noticed (other than obviously being able to cut top edges better no matter what... but most typical people/dealers don't notice or care about that) is that sometimes back windows seem to be way larger than they need to be, which can be slightly irritating when installing under side trim/avoiding headliners... I never used to cut my back windows so oversized so I don't get it. But usually it's not an issue at all, sometimes an annoyance, and maybe once so far a problem.

Needless to say, when I did a large dealer's own personal car the other day, I did the side windows by hand because he's fussy. For mini vans and econo boxes... as long as it's clean and no light gaps or exposed edges, good job.

So I have finally decided to ac my garage where I do my tinting at and I was wondering if anybody has used one of these portable ac units? I was leaning toward the regular window unit 15000 btu for about 400 then I saw the portable one that is 13000 with heat for 500. By the way I'm trying to cool about 400 sq feet.

Portable unit's BTU ratings are always... exaggerated. I have an OLD 10,000 BTU window unit that works significantly better than my girlfriends new 12,000 BTU portable AC/heater/dehumidifier.

There's charts you can look up online for square footage... but for a shop with a big bay door that opens several times a day I'd go large and in charge. Get the biggest freaking window one you can IMO (since it's a small enough space for a window one).

And of those choices, I'd go for the window unit hands down.

Is this the stuff a lot of people seem to think is a Garware product? Didn't some Global distributors switch to this or something?