mobiledynamics

Re: LAH, so it sounds like comes with the territory then. All *high performance* tint will basically have LAH. Just depends how ones eyes interpret it.

Thx. I'll just tried pulling the specs on Crystalline. 

Don't see a column for Solar Energy Absorbance.

In layman's way, is there a way to look at a column to get the Solar Energy Absorbance spec ?

https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1919596O/3m-automotive-window-film-crystalline-series-tech-data-sheet.pdf

Just curios to see where those #'s stack. The moonroof on new car is like 75% of the dang car.....Ended up going with 55% Xpel. Did not want to go to dark as the absorbance #'s go up....and well, I know of horror stores of moonroof exploding. 

Talk about timing Dynamic. I was going to mention Tintguy.

In my other thread I posted on my initial *heat* experience with tinted windshield or maybe it was a tinted sunroof thread, TintGuy mentioned that 3M Cry. does not heat soak - absorb but reflects . 

I was going to ask how does 3M Cry fall into this camp since it reflects and does it have same/similar LAH issues.

I don't like 3M in general more in regards to their overall colorways - blue, brown, green.

TintGuy did perk my interest in - whatever thread- he replied saying 3M reflects and does not heat soak the glass as much

Took a test drive today and of course could not duplicate the issue.

Going to just keep a mental note of LAH so I won't forget the next time I capture the haze.

Pros who tint windshields and are well aware of this issue.

Do you inform your customers of this potential issue or *green is green* at the end of the day....

I'm was think it's just either something -fresh- on the blades from manufacturing and I'm pretty sure it's those -pesky polarized glasses- is the root cause.

I just need to do the baseline test in same conditions Wiper - no polarized glasses, and see if the 1 sec haze is there as it flashes. If it is not, and I can repeat the same with glasses and see the haze, before it flashes off - then I guess Polarized glass is the roots cause of these issues looking through the glass.

Ah Ryker, I forgot about the LAH. I think the polarized glasses makes it more pronounced now that I'm putting 1+1 observations 

Similar to the other linked thread, I am also observing this (me thinking new car, maybe just something that got applied to the windshield that needs to wear off or the new wipers needed some manuf. newness to break in). Whenever the wiper makes a pass, again with *polarized glasses*, I see a haze for like 1 second after the wiper pass, before it clears up.

I'm going to now try the same test *no glasses* and see if I can duplicate haze. And then put glasses back on and see if the 1 second wiper haze comes back.

I've had tint in the past but this was always OEM - aka, tint between the windshield laminate. I suspect it was metal since it had the -typical cutouts- on the top/bottom to allow for toll readers, radar, etc. Never have had a issue re: clarity wearing Polarized Sunglasses

Currently, Xpel 70%. 

It wasn't registering to me me that it could be sunglasses/polarized vs. just dirty sunglasses ....LOL, I cleaned my sunglasses and same problem.

When looking from inside looking out, polarized sunglasses + Ceramic 70%, things look a bit hazy.

When I lift my sunglasses, the haze disappears....

I don't have no polarized glasses but maybe I should pickup a pair to test if it's the polarization that is the issue

I did happen to post my observations when looking at the rearview mirror+polarized glasses here

I don't actually buy into the -dealer- thing though. You can have one installer for X brand who is great and another same -authorized dealer- for X brand that is not. IMO when it comes down to regional lock of availability of a particular film - maybe the pro's can chime in, but I have no idea if they pay a small fee for being exclusive for carrying Z brand. The other post did somewhat confirm it by stating if you're a dealer for X, you can't carry other brands.

Not a Pro but just a Joe. Aren't all these brands, 3M, Xpel, Suntek, Llumar, etc - all dealer territory protected...

From a consumer POV, I don't think you're missing out by not being a 3M installer. 3M can sometimes comes off brown, blue green, etc. I like Xpel. The Xpel is more just charcoal neutral IMO. But like anything in life, colorways is subjective.

Ah....than that sums it up. Been looking at the fronts ...and saying it sure looks dang too light for what's on it.....been hemming/hawing on whether to rip and replace with darker.

I don't like too dark and have many times gone 20% and then went lighter...

Can't always tell until it's on the car in the real world.

But man, it sure feels like it's 10% lighter than what I would expect the % would be.

I generally have a decent gauge for what 20, 35, 55 looks like in the general variables that can affect how it looks (interior of car, what color the stock glass is, etc).

Riddle me this but for a larger car with -larger windows-, like a SUV, could the larger windows also contribute to me seeing 35% but it looks more like 40% , etc due to more light overall coming in.

I was cleaning the cars, doing a dash wipedown. Between the leather, the slope before it meets the WS glass, and knowing there is going to electronics under the dash, I am second guessing the R&R from 70 to some thinking darker....I'm sure it can be done, but there is the -potential- for water damage on the dash or electronics, and or scraping, and potential leather damage right (presuming installers is super careful already beforehand). Maybe the risk is not worth it....

I realize what the issue is. Previous car had comfort windshield . So while the 70% ceramic blocks more, there is a slight noticeable difference in glare with the previous WS as a datapoint, versus the almost clear ceramic film.

I've never done the windshield until this year. Most/all have been 3 year flips. The last one maybe the last ICE car with a non -all out touchscreen with no buttons- console. The market in 2 years may be all touch. Yuck.

So I tinted the WS to protect the leather dash. Or at least try to minimize the heat when parked street side.

Regardless, heat soak is heat soak. The sunshade is still -quite hot- with 70 ceramic on it

I do notice the difference when driving though. Not in glare...but in overall less heat on the dash on hot days

Dare I ask for the fellow pro's, do you guys for your own rides have a personal preference on tint.

Or you're just a -LIMO- type of guy

I always second guess myself.

For example, new ride, did 70% on the windshield and the Fronts at 30.

I think I'm going to have the 70% removed, 55% the windshield and see how that looks from both the windshield and then how much it may darken the front's afterwards...I did not want to do 20% in the fronts , but in the daytime, it's a bit too light. Granted all different variables like interior color, angle of the sun, some tint is more reflective in color tone than others, etc.

I wish I could just -spec- it right the 1st time. But sometimes, like today,  I'm switching it up 1 notch darker.

Just 3 for the fender. That's great - it would be much more - but pricing is regional IMO

1st time using a Pressure Washer ?

I know QuickConnects and the tension balls on them can be a bit tricky....but always do a test gun trigger pointing down whenever you are about to -spray-....

FWIW, they also make rubber hoods you can install as a extra safety . So it's 1/4 plug+orifice of size and the rubber shrouded hood .....this is what I have for my car wash PQ nozzles. 

Steam/Heat material well - and while you're removing is best. It's a new install so it should be fully -cured-.

Also, once you get a lift point on the film. don't remove by pulling the film -away- from you. Pull it -towards- you to lift and remove. Adhesive comes off better with film in this technique/direction.

The less glue = the less glue removal. That = less/minimizing mechanical contact/mechanical abrasion. Still probably will need a mild polish after a chem glue wipedown regardless.

So now you have PDR . How much is it going to cost you to redo the whole fender. Just curious

If you care about -OE- down the road, then the details do matter....only if you are a stickler for what was stock and whether it is -there-, if/when you choose to remove the PPF. The glue is pretty strong. While adhesion of paint is different on metal, the adhesion of the factory sticker -might- lift some when pulling pff. Especially since you are doing to apply heat- to the area to aid in removing the PPF (aka, glue), that same heat also is also going to be -heating- the factory vinyl.

May be a moot point if you don't care about the OE sticker though...as that can always be redone ..easy from a vinyl perspective

Off topic or on - In the realm of some owners want thing's all OEM

If PPF applied in this fashion (ontop of paint + factory stripe). 

If, when the PPF is removed....not that I think about it, there is a good chance the factory stripe may -lift- with the PPF right ?

Just due the adhesion of paint is different than a sticker ontop of it. Then you add the adhesive of the PPF, then trying to keep the factory stripe may be MOOT ?

The precuts are just that. The software allows you to + - the pattern but it's really up to the installer to take the extra mile and fudge with it...a shop I know is one their 36th *revision* of their pattern tweaking for the Z06.

U don't want seams on a install - preferably- especially the hood since it's the main focal point.

If I was choosing it, I would do the full gloss film on the hood and then vinyl match ontop of the ppf where the factory stripes are - new vinyl strips would be 1/16+ wider than the stock strip so you know you are fully covering it

. The vinyl is like 5 times thinner than stealth PPF, so it would blend in better than the thicker stealth clear ontop, as well as it would mask it so it looks -seamless- due color coverage..

pic #2. Tint ain't sized well. Gap in sail panel unless it's just the internet making things look off

Back to the OP.....I went and checked similar car/windows that have had plot cuts. There is like 1" at least you can't really see where the trim is on the B pillar but regardless, with that said, I don't even see a radius but a nice tight straight line - and this is a plotted cut as well fwiw.

For my wiki, what is the technical - industry term to describe the sticky reside that resides ontop of the film from being squeeged out.

Let me guess, it's called PPF Slip Solution Goop 😄 JK.

Pros - The last pic of the tint on the back deck with the non straight edge ? That can't be plot cut right. It's too *not straight* to be plot cut..

Bham or just any tint pro - are you stating that with ceramic films, it's advisable to not tint to edge/file due to the comment you posted. Or it can be one if one want's the tint (to the edge)

With that said....my tinter of 2 decades went to plots a few years back. Not sure if it was for productivity ...

Tints jobs look as as fine, except for the half moon edges, which is a very minutia detail difference.

I've had it both ways. Micro edge and filed. 

IME, with ceramic and lighter 70%, when the sun hits it at a particular angle, it can appear hazy. Don't notice this on darker %

What is just weird with the combo I am seeing is mainly due to looking at my *6* in the rearview with polarized sunglasses. It's very distracting due to the -strong- Diamond colored pattern I'm seeing. It's 70% ceramic ontop of 20'ish factory dyed