PRatx

not sure how plastic fabrication and plastic waist is more environmentally friendly

probably glue , xpel sucks anyway  lol

they re-box anything they get their hands on.

is the car been polished before install ? or were any air pockets on that edge? looks like airpockets in that matte ppf , when they dry they leave that "white suds " look

 or option2 , 40in plotter ( u can cut 80-95% of the full car with it) , and bulk the hoods and larger panels....

can you send me a sample so i can test it?

the marks are on outside of the film , the clear top layer , from rubbing ( in the box , or where was stored)

the hood may be ceramic coated .....

you stretch the film too much?

straight alchool  90%, bonding promoter  , also solvent adhesive removal ( keep it away from plastic and headlights)

multiple wipe down the edges is the key , also steam may help with wrapping the edges

+1 to the above

better hurry , xpel rise the prices in nov 4% , and suntek increase 10% in the last 2years , legend had 20% off in sept .....

i have some solid 80x 36 in roll gloss , but i am 3h away

when u apply ppf on top of decals , stripe etc , u will always have that air gap pocket , now after install if you run your finger on that line before you wrap the edge / so the air has a release /  you may have chance to reduce that air space , but you will still have some airgap because is not level / the decal is higher then the paint level..... make sense?

with badge , get new ones if u want to do it , other then that take it back so they can fix the badge, usually some double side tape works.

removal may or may not leave residue.

mirrors are a pain , some gaps are acceptable , in 1/8th range  due to material been thicker and the complexity of the panel, the idea is to be protected as much as possible.  if you want car wrap , then go with color vinyl and that covers all the paint.

""   PPF that is matte and is tinted to darken the color of my paint   ""   ??!!

that`s a new one

ppf over ppf should be ok

i am just guessing: glue issue  or the headlight may have factory coating ....

boiling water and steamer

probably the alchool mix was to aggressive and damage the glue , or the film was too stretch in that area... i am just guessing

wonder if you like to share your dealership fill up form , like a work order form.

something like the dealer has to fill up and sign , related with the install....

reminds me why i switch to suntek ...

I got 2-3 rolls since covid , but no issues here....

i do use steamer for edges and tac , instead of alcool mix

i been isolated for 2 weeks when they shut everything around the country , and the last 3 months been working full time in ppf install and auto detail.

me and my crew wear mask , access to gloves and sanitizer. i also take their temp in the morning and mandatory sanitize hands between cars.

crazy times for sure.

i use the CORE patterns on a 17db11 went like a glove.

a bit of steady hand trim and probond would fix it.

pressure on demand wagner , about 100-120$ , has an option with a flat plate that works when you remove film.

for ppf  removal i also use boiling water from an electric water kettle, usually 2 people process.

you roll the film and you hold the roll with one hand , than back roll after you bond 1-2in on the upper fender by the windshield, ideal is to bond on same side by the headlight.

of course the hood needs to be wet, sprayed with soapy solution.

kind of silvering , looks like premature adhesion , from pressing or stretching

did you try to increase the soap concentration?

9 hours ago, CCPcoatings said:

Right, but once clean and primer is dry, what do you wet the film with?

light heat with heat gun to get the glue sticky again...., just press from the area that`s closed already, treat it as wrap edge