PRatx

not an expert , but i do not see no wrinkles or tension in that opening. trim it where is bound and be done with it.

if you try to clean it and close, you will still get an visible dirt line trapped there.

another option is clean , open slightly more once dry , than bound with adhesive promoter and force close, trim the excess

23 hours ago, Speed said:

I just tuck the film behind them using a flat blue card

 

the pic you posted is the older light and the flat card works  , not the NEW models.

upper lights has a mesh under the lens. did you try the flat card with new models?

headlight is fully  integrated in the fender, and the fender is wider, will need more stretch to wrap the fender.

just a heads up , the new porsche headlights are removable.

the car has a switch where you can lift the front about 2more inches for access.

the inner liner needs to be removed (11 screws- 4 at the bottom , 7 in the wheel area ) , or dropped to have access for the 2 bolts that holds the headlight. no bumper removal needed.

after all the bolts area removed , you will need help when pulling the headlight, one person push from inside and second holds it in the front. also masking tape should be used around the headlight before removal.

the inside  front bottom of the headlight has a pin that slides into a small track. (in pic marked with red)

spoiler i think has double side tape, the light .. you should get access tru the trunk liner....youtubeuniversity should help more.

also look into tesla forums

insulin syringe works good

is that flat or textured panel?

ask the manufacturer to send you some samples and see what works for you, that will be the best approach.

i been trained and use all 3 films , i prefer suntek, i use trucut

another aspect would be if the paint is heal enough to put the ppf on it , if not... than who will replace it can end up with some bare metal on their hands....

the car i see was done with template , and other than 2-3 small fingers (mirror and lower lip) was a good install , no stretch lines or miss aligns or impurities . the car was silver.

any repairs or replacements may take a toll on local dealers ....

2 minutes ago, XPEL Jeff said:

 loyal XPEL-using shops. 

why you don`t talk about xpel loyalty to their dealers....

because is NONE!

i been 3 years exclusive dap and xpel ppf , than you guys decide to wipe me down from your dealer list because some greed decisions , to force me to buy a minimum , now after 5 years of dap fees and credit payed for cuts , new rules, keep your rules Jeff , is America and is an competitive market!

i will always have options , but the way you treat your dealers/ customers just turn people off to deal with you guys..... take that to your boss!

yes, Suntek has better customer service and a good line of products , tell them that too

yup.... some porsches will be delivered in US with ppf already installed at the factory, see the delivery tag , full hood, full front fenders, front bumper and mirrors 2700$...
most likely other manufacturer ( benz, bmw, audi , vw ...to start with ) may have that option too....

xpel did me a favor today so i can save some good 5-600$ a month.

xpel new rules, if you don`t buy film , no more dap , even if you had monthly dap subscription (325$) and you buy credits 1$/sqft....no more , greed is at their door again. 

Trucut here i come, my real divorce with Xpel is happening , i did damp their film 1.5 years ago now is time to stop paying for their software.

In my shop SUNTEK wins!

depends a lot of your area , also full car?  full front ?

full car , the material can take between 1000-2000$ , take that out from what other shops in town charges and you have your price .....

i usually allow 5-7 days for a full car , i do think 3-4 days works too, also i install hybrid ( bulk and pre-cut) . with big projects i like to spend a bit more time after the install so i can address any issues.

few things that can be try.... leave it in the sun, light pass with heat gun , boiling water,  light polish

if none of this works than replace.

it may be the top coat hazed from when the film is rolled or if has been "bend" - handle improperly when the hood was installed

if only moisture and no air in the bubble , than leave alone , no touch. it will go away.

if air inside than depends how skill you are  it will leave a mark smaller or bigger when attempted with a syringe. an insulin syringe in an angle is preferred

sounds like overspray.....

you must find a middle , any paint issues should be addressed before install.

you may not be a detailer and the paint "supposed" to be ready for film ......but we all know how cars come in.

* let client know what` s there and decide if film has to be reapply or not  , if you reapply  charge for overspray removal and absorb some of that lost material..... go in details with the client so he knows his options.

20 hours ago, XPEL Jeff said:

,

 

 

  

xpel don`t value your loyalty , end of story

i had an slow time with rain years ago and you guys erase me from your locator because i didn`t buy the "quota"

Surprisingly your company spends so much in marketing and to get new clients and so little to keep the old clients, that were loyal once....

after 3 years of exclusive xpel i switch to suntek , xpel don`t value your loyalty , you end up be another number for them.

each to his own, if you are not comfortable to remove a badge than don`t , i do not refer to you , but in general.

each case with badges is different , you can strip the whole car if your time is payed and you have the knowledge to do it.

with decals , if are provided the replacement than why not put a new one , if not just leave the car in original state , some owners prefer to have all original, plus you have to take in account the surprise element once you take something apart.

i pre-cut bumpers and no need to cut the sensors, but i did cut out a few. i bulk hoods , so mostly i remove badges where possible. youtube university teach you all ,  i do not remove any decals , i do wrap on top of it , i do multiple passes with the squeegee , on some occasions   i may use alcohol or steam to force the bond tighter to the edge of the decals.

do your best , chase perfection if you have time , but keep in mind it will always be someone who will object , or not like your work.

http://www.proreflection.com/

ppf-ceramic coating-auto detail

took me about 20 cars to get a hold of it , been doing it for 5 years and i still learn, mobile install is not my favorite , you will need a shop or a clean bay , with good lighting.

add to that that lately everybody wants perfect install, some think it takes 30minutes for a full front and they can wait till is installed ...and the list goes on

keep in mind initial investment: training , plotter , fees for software, fees for cuts, material , than more material , material , did i say material? my cc goes skyrocket when i get rolls.....

we use a pressure on demand steamer and steam it 3-4 times before any install , also we use soft cloth with thin car wrap squeegee for edges.  but flushing them with steam does great.

what film was used? also the best way on bigger projects is to keep the car overnight , that way you can have a second look for this areas that have tendency to open and address it before delivery.

you can do some proactive steps to prevent opening: good prep , de-grease , use some adhesive promoter, heat gun the edges, steam edges, on some film alcohol help to increase bonding.

the designer may think different from installer ... is always good to be open for trimming , also a  helper to line up the sensors etc.

i think kits gets a lot of test before getting them on the software , but maybe should be tested by different installers...

from what i have read is used an different film  to mark the shape , than scan into computer than tested....

i bulk hood and on occasion fenders,  mirrors. but  bumpers and doors i use kits.

you guys are right , kits doesnt fit perfect , but with a light trim it can fit nicely.

i do wrap edges where possible.