Champagne Unavoidable?

[Guest VOLTRON]

well I thought before that I could tint safty the same as solar, backroll it and stick it, but it takes so much time to droop the film that you get dry spots. But then again most every time I installed safty I have been by myself and didnt have anyone to help me pull the liner and wet it. After I got it up there I would do as you said about flooding it and it worked pretty good, but after I was shown at that training to wet the film and the glass I tried it and it turned out alot better. That and I had a helper there to do it like that and we also precut the film on the windows before we tinted them and they turned out close to flawless. To be honest I didnt really like laying safty film but after that madico training class I like it alot better. And as a contractor it pays more too, although I have to pay another tinter but I dont really mind it to much.

[Guest blueyes]

Some times you crack me up.

And then thiers now!

[Guest VOLTRON]

what about now? what did I say this time?

[Guest Tintim]

one thing that I noticed last time I installed 8 mil ( because before I had the same thing with the bubbles and champagning) is one to precut like sun said and another is to wet both the film

to Most especially overlapping and squeeging out very heard.

We fit 12 mil window film to car drop windows some of which require a shrink. Key thing seems to be the concentration of slip and ensuring the film is wet. It might take two people one to peel and the other to spray but if you do this and allow ten to twenty seconds so the solution can run down the whole of the film, overlap the squeeging and do so with force you won't have a problem.

We had this problem when we first started fitting thick guage film to cars - since doing the above its been eliminated completely.

[darrin1]

one thing that I noticed last time I installed 8 mil ( because before I had the same thing with the bubbles and champagning) is one to precut like sun said and another is to wet both the film

to Most especially overlapping and squeeging out very heard.

We fit 12 mil window film to car drop windows some of which require a shrink. Key thing seems to be the concentration of slip and ensuring the film is wet. It might take two people one to peel and the other to spray but if you do this and allow ten to twenty seconds so the solution can run down the whole of the film, overlap the squeeging and do so with force you won't have a problem.

We had this problem when we first started fitting thick guage film to cars - since doing the above its been eliminated completely.

[*]349861

[darrin1]

one thing that I noticed last time I installed 8 mil ( because before I had the same thing with the bubbles and champagning) is one to precut like sun said and another is to wet both the film

to Most especially overlapping and squeeging out very heard.

We fit 12 mil window film to car drop windows some of which require a shrink. Key thing seems to be the concentration of slip and ensuring the film is wet. It might take two people one to peel and the other to spray but if you do this and allow ten to twenty seconds so the solution can run down the whole of the film, overlap the squeeging and do so with force you won't have a problem.

We had this problem when we first started fitting thick guage film to cars - since doing the above its been eliminated completely.

[*]349861

[*]354423

[darrin1]

interesting methods by lots of different installers. I've been filming with everything from 4 through 12 mil for years. what has worked for me is utilizing leverage. I never squeeggee security film more than one foot over my head. I always have a three step ladder so I'm pushing in my "wheelhouse."

I use a blue max (the small thin ones that come in 12" lengths). for security films, I use a 6" blue max length. I've found the blue max has no equal when it comes to moving water. also, you get 4 new edges per blade. one hand is on the handle and the other is slightly overlapping. my elbows kind of point straight out either side of my body. the power is coming straight from the chest as you lean in and push. the strokes overlap by 3 inches or so. initially tacking the film with the "T" shaped squeeggee pattern is best. after that I divide the glass into quadrants and go from top to bottom.

I quit using soapy solutions under the film years ago. the glass gets an even coat of water(no soap). the film gets sprayed until water is running down and starting to drip. I have a bucket that I hang the piece over while spraying. this takes care of excess water getting on the floor as my method takes a bit more water than others. I'm still using soapy water for cleaning and squeeggee work. when I hang, im only attempting to fit the top edge.

I've never found that pre-cutting or pattern cutting helped solve any problem in the flatglass world except for the narrow long arch windows that are often loaded with paint along the edges. even then I'm only cutting a rough pattern. if you feel like the piece is too big to fit into the glass opening (deep set casements), get a filmhandler and cut the film about 1 inch over. the filmhandler will pay for itself over time.

it is the combined effect of proper squeeggee technique, using only water under the film, using leverage and starting with pieces that are only one inch over that have eliminated champagne bubbles, streaks, etc from my installations.

every once in awhile I do get a streak in the film. it usually is the result of lazy technique with the squeeggee of maybe a blade that needs to be switched out. I'll card the imperfection and follow with more pressure from a chizler. hope this helps.

[Guest metint]

interesting methods by lots of different installers.  I've been filming  with everything from 4 through 12 mil for years.  what has worked for me  is utilizing leverage.  I never  squeeggee security film more than one foot over my head.  I always have  a three step ladder so I'm pushing in my "wheelhouse."

I call this the squeegee zone... much the same as the strike zone in baseball...

I use a blue max (the small thin ones that come in 12" lengths).  for security films, I use a 6" blue max length.  I've found the blue max has no equal when it comes to moving water.  also, you get 4 new edges per blade. 

Guess you've not tried the PerforMax handle with a Blue Max Squared blade (auto blue max without the bevel)?

Go solid info there, Darrin...

[darrin1]

interesting methods by lots of different installers.? I've been filming? with everything from 4 through 12 mil for years.? what has worked for me? is utilizing leverage.? I never? squeeggee security film more than one foot over my head.? I always have? a three step ladder so I'm pushing in my "wheelhouse."

I call this the squeegee zone... much the same as the strike zone in baseball...

I use a blue max (the small thin ones that come in 12" lengths).? for security films, I use a 6" blue max length.? I've found the blue max has no equal when it comes to moving water.? also, you get 4 new edges per blade.? 

Guess you've not tried the PerforMax handle with a Blue Max Squared blade (auto blue max without the bevel)?

Go solid info there, Darrin...

[*]354437

have not tried the blue max without bevel or the handle you named.I'm using unger what's up with the handle? I'm using ungers

[blade]

welcome to the board darrin