Residential Window Advice Please

[Guest scottydosnntkno]

You should be fine with nearly any 35% or lighter architectural film. Some films you can go darker with but will be more reflective.

a general rule of thumb is no darker than 35, unless it specifically says it can be used on DP windows. Many companies make 30, 20, and 10 that are safe for DP.

As for the breakage, its not so much the expansion of the film and window and opposed to the window itself, and the window/frame. The less reflective the film, the more heat it absorbs. This heat causes the glass to expand, and if theres any existing tiny flaws on the edge it will crack, or if it pushes against the frame too much it will crack. I'm sure someone more experienced can give a lot more technical answers, but I've had no issues with breakage so I'm no expert my any means. But thats a few general ideas for you

[bjhilburn]

You should be fine with nearly any 35% or lighter architectural film. Some films you can go darker with but will be more reflective.

a general rule of thumb is no darker than 35, unless it specifically says it can be used on DP windows. Many companies make 30, 20, and 10 that are safe for DP.

As for the breakage, its not so much the expansion of the film and window and opposed to the window itself, and the window/frame. The less reflective the film, the more heat it absorbs. This heat causes the glass to expand, and if theres any existing tiny flaws on the edge it will crack, or if it pushes against the frame too much it will crack. I'm sure someone more experienced can give a lot more technical answers, but I've had no issues with breakage so I'm no expert my any means. But thats a few general ideas for you

I noticed that the majority of the films from EWF say up to 100ft^2 (single pane) and up to 40ft^2 (dual pane). All of my dual pane windows are under 40ft^2.

"the less reflective the film, the more heat it absorbs". So when the glass is relatively clear it absorbs much less heat than putting something black adhered to the window causing it to absorb more heat...

So a 100ft^2 dual pane window with 5%vlt film that is non reflective would probably break?

THX

[Guest scottydosnntkno]

You should be fine with nearly any 35% or lighter architectural film. Some films you can go darker with but will be more reflective.

a general rule of thumb is no darker than 35, unless it specifically says it can be used on DP windows. Many companies make 30, 20, and 10 that are safe for DP.

As for the breakage, its not so much the expansion of the film and window and opposed to the window itself, and the window/frame. The less reflective the film, the more heat it absorbs. This heat causes the glass to expand, and if theres any existing tiny flaws on the edge it will crack, or if it pushes against the frame too much it will crack. I'm sure someone more experienced can give a lot more technical answers, but I've had no issues with breakage so I'm no expert my any means. But thats a few general ideas for you

I noticed that the majority of the films from EWF say up to 100ft^2 (single pane) and up to 40ft^2 (dual pane). All of my dual pane windows are under 40ft^2.

"the less reflective the film, the more heat it absorbs". So when the glass is relatively clear it absorbs much less heat than putting something black adhered to the window causing it to absorb more heat...

So a 100ft^2 dual pane window with 5%vlt film that is non reflective would probably break?

THX

100ft^2 is for warranty purposes, because a piece of glass that big is uneven and much more prone to breakage.

Yes, the clear glass doesn't absorb heat, it transfers through it. Window film blocks the heat by either absorbing it(NR automotive films) or reflecting it(dual reflective FG films).

Yes, a 100ft^2 window with NR films, or too dark of a dual reflective FG film would probably break. The darker the film you car(10% FG films), there is only so much of the TSE that can be reflected. Some of it has to be absorbed. Hardly any FG films are NR, since to be applied to DP windows the film has to reflect most of the heat so that it doesn't heat up the gas and air void too much, causing seal and window failure.

Basically before you do anything, measure all the windows(like you did), figure out what type of windows you have and call your film rep to talk through it. Noone knows their films or their applications like they do, and thats their job is to help you. They will walk you through every step of selecting a film based on what you are looking for.

[ljr1977]

35% light risk 20% mid risk and 5% no.no....pay attention to shading from trees, eves, and shrubs make sure the windows dont have any crazy shadows....like everyone else its best for a seminar...even your dealers will have litature for this, as shadows play a big roll on the film to use you, as well as what % you use?

[Guest scottydosnntkno]

35% light risk 20% mid risk and 5% no.no....pay attention to shading from trees, eves, and shrubs make sure the windows dont have any crazy shadows....like everyone else its best for a seminar...even your dealers will have litature for this, as shadows play a big roll on the film to use you, as well as what % you use?

one customer a couple weeks ago cut down I swear half the trees in his yard because they were shading the windows. Seems like the shade all over the house would save more energy than tinting the windows.