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Sounds like you just experienced dry adhesive, which chemically forms a bond between glass and adhesive. It is the most successful adhesive for long term visual quality and bond strength (longevity). It IS a real bear to remove at any point after it chemically cures to the glass (usually within 30 days). Lots of blades and elbow grease for sure. My method was to scrape a strip and yank, scrape a strip and yank ... again and again until time to remove the residual adhesive. There are not many 'safe' chemicals that can be used to 'easily' remove it. I do know that a dry adhesive will come away from the surface of glass a little easier when the surface temp is below 40 F. Who has that kind of opportunity other than those in Canada/Alaska type environments. Sad. You can try using 000 or 0000 steel wool in an attempt to remove those marks. Outside of this I cannot remember any others ideas for tackling that.

Yeah, dual-pane glazing units can fail at any point in time from day 1 and up. It's rare in the first couple of seasonal cycles, but you never know until it shows itself. Dual and Triple pane systems rely on the seal between glass and spacer. Even there they can have a single seal; glass to spacer, or a double seal that wraps the outer edges and seals (encapsulates) spacer and glass as well. The latter is found in high quality glazing systems. The former brings trouble before its time. The gas or dead air space between the panes has zero to little impact of failure of seals. Once a seal is compromised (for whatever reason), moisture intrusion occurs. It can be visible to the eye when cool and it can be microscopically invisible. What produces the visible lines, smudges, spots, etc. is the desiccant (located in the spacer to absorb any minute moisture). Kind of like the dry packets used in shipping goods. Desiccant gets wet, heats up to vapor from sun exposure, it deposits on the interior of the system and once the sun dries it, you get a number of different aforementioned looks; some obvious, some not so much until film is applied. You can have the one sash replaced, either through warranty based on seal failure or by out of pocket cost. Be sure you let the window folks know the other panes do not display the same as the one in question. They have a tendency to baselessly blame seal failure on applied window film, which our industry has dispelled through long term studies using the 'right' window film for the system. Good luck

Hey guys, Hope all is well by your side! Quick question: I went on site to remove a tint that were installed approx 2 years ago. External window film, don't know the brand of that film. Once I came on site and tried to remove the film with pure alcohol and cleaning blades, I struggled a LOT. It took hours for me to remove the adhesive. After the film has been removed, I spotted on the window some kind of weird marks that appeared as you can see on the attached pictures (only a few marks here and there on the glazing). I tried to remove those marks from the glazing without any success... Did someone experienced the same issue and has potential solution to remove those marks? Would it be the film responsible for such issue or, did I miss something during the removal process of the film ? Any piece of advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance for your support!

Thanks, I appreciate the reply. Thinking that between the fact the cut is really small, the film probably recovered over the top, and a tiny bit of paint to seal the margins it should survive our salt seasons. Sound logical? Part of me wants to have the hood redone just to train myself to be more careful, but this is such a small defect and so hard to see I'm leaning towards the very small dab of paint approach.

Least noticeable would probably be the smallest drop/dab of clear-coat. In my humble opinion 👍

Hate to have my first post be a problem, but that's the case here. I'm a fan of PPF. Have had Suntek, 3M, and Xpel on various cars over the years. Even had an installation removed and replaced when I was not happy. I am not an installer, as you will soon see . . . My favorite installer did a great job on my new Jeep. But, as often the case, there was one or two very small air pockets (not fluid). I decided to pop one and push it down. Not the best idea for a rookie with strong OCD tendencies. Should have went back to the dealer, but it's a LONG drive . . . Anyway, I will admit that I not use the correct tool. I thought a brand new Exacto blade tip would be fine enough. I popped the bubble, got it to adhere to the paint, but when I looked under magnification I found that I cut the paint down to shiny metal. (I am way to much of a DIY type; it's my own fault). The metal exposure is really small--about 0.3mm long and 0.1mm wide. But I live in the salty winter state of Minnesota, so envision a salt hit. Options: 1. Redo the sheet. But it's a complicated hood piece and they did a great job--hate to take it off. 2. Wait and see what happens. 3. Apply a very small dab of touchup paint to seal the small cut. We are talking really small amount of paint--typically use the tip of a toothpick. 4. Torch the car for an insurance claim . . .😏 After running the options past the installer I went with #3. A very small dot of touchup paint. Covered the exposure, looks OK and is very hard to see unless you look for it. So, question is this: Think this might survive a few MN salt seasons?? [By the way, found a nice way to flatten the bubble if you do pop one--place a strong magnet over a thin piece of plastic over the bubble. Leave it over night if needed. Worked great]

Where do you buy tint in UK? Where to buy polyurethane tint for headlamps? Thank you.

Hey everyone, you have probably seen my ad on the side bar for my tint racks. Well i have them marked at 15% off on my website right now till June 14th I’ve also made a quick video showing how the racks are made. I wanted to explain why I think my racks are a better choice than others on the market. Here's why my racks stand out: Quality Material: I cut my racks from 1/8th inch steel, which is sturdier compared to some other brands (you know, the ones that rhyme with "Ruffalo"). In-House Production: All fabricating and powder coating are done in-house, which helps keep pricing low for everyone. Customization: Need a custom size? No problem! I’ve made racks that fit both 10-inch and 17-inch rolls for different materials. Affordable Pricing: My pricing is much lower than other brands because I handle all fabrication myself. You’re not buying from a large company that adds a markup for reselling someone else's racks. Check out my WEBSITE for more details and to watch the VIDEO. Thanks for supporting a small business!

Dagumheehawthrillbillys! HP20/10 Alligator console, five point seats, 37s on 24" rims, draft pipes...and on and on... I guess I didn't price it high enough to chase it away

Company Background: Auto Tinting Austin LLC is a 5-Star rated Window Tinting business established in 2013. We offer high quality products, expert installation and excellent customer service. We Offer: -A Very Positive and Supportive Work Atmosphere -Consistent Work Year Round -Very Competitive Pay -Air Conditioned Bay -Tool Allotment -Snacks and Lunches -$1000 Sign On Bonus -Willing to Assist in Relocating the Right Candidate -Porter and Tint Shop Support Team -Plotter, Bottles, Shampoo Etc All Provided Job Duties: Seeking experienced window tinting technician to install automotive window film. Experience with plotter and hand cutting. Ability to operate manual vehicles for parking and moving. Will work with a helper team that can step in to cut film, move cars, remove film. Positive atmosphere. Hours: Schedule is open Monday-Saturday. Pay: $1000 Sign on Bonus! $1000-$2500+/Week Full Time, $300-600/Day Part Time ---BASE PAY AND TIPS!! Please call to schedule interview. 512-956-8468 Manager: Jody/Aric Auto Tinting Austin LLC 1601 Bench Mark Dr. Ste C Austin, TX 78728 www.AutoTintingAustin.com Job Type: Full-time Job Type: Part-time Pay: $1500-$2500+/Week Full Time, $300-600/Day Part Time