Needing help…… again

[Damien]

Hey all, so I’m still new to the game but when I’m hand cutting side windows, I seem to always have a little gouge when I’m making the side cuts. It’s either where I’m starting my cut or ending it. Or maybe I’m hitting a finger when I’m making the cut. Iv tried to fix all of that but it’s still happening. Sometimes it’s big and very hard to hide. 

[Dano]

Use a china marker for your side cuts. Finish the edge with a ruler on your peel board. The whacky edge you are getting is from the film getting pressed into the rubber on the initial approach and release.

 

Use the china marker on all the other glass and you'll never have to explain to a customer why you have to replace an expensive piece of glass or trim piece. 

[Bham]

If you are talking about when you are cutting the edges of a roll-up window = you have to start your cut above your beginning point and then swoop in at a curve to make contact with the edge so that you can slide you blade along the edge.  Kinda like the curve of a skateboard ramp.  If you just plunge the knife in exactly at your cut point, the plunge will push the knife blade a little farther than you are wanting to start your cut. Hence the gouge that is lower that your glass edge cut. The gouge at the end of the cut is due to the angle of your blade when you finish your stroke.  Again, curve the cut out and finish the edges(make them straight) with a ruler on the peel board.  

 

Also, the cut along the edge of the glass should be one smooth stroke. If you pause or try to restart you will have "ticks" in you cut line.  

 

Came back to say as I am cutting one out that if you are trying to cut down the sides of your roll-up windows by pushing the knife into the edge and running it down, instead of marking and cutting on a peel board, you will ALWAYS have that gouge in your pattern.  This method of cutting never works properly and you will not see a reputable shop using that method of cutting patterns. 

Edited August 22, 2023 by Bham

[Dano]

^^^ 100%correct.

 

I start my top edge by chopping out the bulk of the excess film to reduce the weight and get the film flatter to the glass. I also ride the bevel at the top and if I don't like the edge I'll go lower on the bevel to clean it up. Sometimes I'll lift the bottom of the pattern to take the stress away from the corners as I cut towards the edge.

[Damien]

All of that made perfect sense. Iv never actually gave the sharpie method a try yet. I feel like it wouldn’t be as precise as cutting on the window. But I will for sure give it a try. The advice is much appreciated. 

[Bham]

I'll put it this way = it is very hard(almost impossible) to waste a piece of film because of a sharpie marker.  

 

Cutting directly on the uprights = once you make that first cut, the second cut BETTER be perfect. Otherwise that piece will never fit the window properly and you will have to make another pattern.  There is no room for correction cutting directly against the uprights.  Same principe applies to the rear glass or windshield or quarter window. It's impossible to hurt a piece of glass with a sharpie. It is rather easy to etch a piece of glass with a blade.