pro-tect mobile

Yeah definitely someone to pass on. Anyone that would rather have rock chips than see a little visual light distortion only while wearing polarized glasses is a little off. 

On ‎9‎/‎3‎/‎2018 at 11:09 AM, Butch said:

Updating my answer - Senna 

Would love to see some pics of that install. 

Suntek is held on by static??? LOL. Ok. 

Danny it looks like he didn't post heat the mirror properly. Its definitely not something you can fix but it is still providing protection. Since he is so far away I would wait until he is in your area again or if you are in his area. 

Do a search.... there are NUMEROUS threads on this topic.

Great post. Fortunately you had a very easy hood to work on. One thing to note is don't waste your time waxing or applying a sealant before film installation. And if you are going to be doing this more in the future take a class. It will save you a lot of time, stress, and money. 

Yeah none of those issues here... but I use Suntek Ultra. Also I was shocked to see that much orange peel in that film. Damn my clients wouldn't be happy with that at all. 

Ahhh, this guy. Where did you copy and paste all that from???

On ‎2‎/‎25‎/‎2018 at 8:36 PM, Midtown Houston said:

The Vapor Cheif is the big dog of steamer...It cost over 1k for this steamer but worth every penny...It is endless refill and take city water. 

I've never had to use a steamer... but don't you guys down in Houston just have to open your bay door to get all the steam you want? LOL, the heat and humidity down there is brutal. 

Depends on what the customer wants first of all. Bulk installs take much longer and there is a lot more waste. If the customer will pay for the difference then I will bulk it. If not then kits are the way to go. I also have 8-10 cars I do more frequently than others so I have gone in and adjusted the kits patterns to add material (wrapped edges) and to delete badges, So when I bring up the saved files I basically get the same coverage as a bulk install but the plotter cuts it out saving me a lot of time and material. 

All depends on the vehicle you are working on BUT its usually somewhere in the middle and working out. I have never done a bumper from the outer edge in. 

On ‎6‎/‎10‎/‎2018 at 7:01 PM, Midtown Houston said:

I got this car...that is doing the whole car....still figuring it out how I will do it. If anyone done one...please send me pictures..

At least you have stripes. We have done some of the factory kit cars and having stripes to seam the film up along makes it much easier. 

We use a pressure tank... makes flushing areas much easier than spray bottles. It also minimizes the time it takes to remove the film and lay it. Also make sure to wipe down the sheet when removing it from the plotter. There is always a little static there so it attracts dust drifting in the air. 

On ‎6‎/‎16‎/‎2018 at 11:25 AM, Saved! said:

The only thing thats perfect. Is Jesus our savior. So after all of the OCD. You say that you reached a resolution. So  tell how you got over on a shop that you expected to do prefect . Im sure that they went above and made it right! I have to say that i hope you are happy in all of your life the one that matters not cars not money. Your amazing father.

You dug this thread up to most that??? 

17 hours ago, PaintPro said:

The defects in the last pic at the front of the hood is a manufacturing defect known as cat tails. They are un-melted urethane pellets.  The installer needs to redo that or any other panels affected with those defects and send the defective pieces back to the manufacturer for a credit.

 

I see this with Suntek from time to time and they are great about replacing the film.

That's interesting. I have never heard that term used before. From looking at the pic I thought it was from where the film had stuck to itself during the removal process. If the film is dry when it happens then you separate it the adhesive will get distortions in it that look very close to that. I use Suntek almost exclusively and have never seen the "cat tails" but will definitely keep that in mind if I run across it. 

If you use an automatic car wash you will have a ton of swirl marks in it very quickly. I always recommend not using those as they are very rough on the cars paint. 

On ‎4‎/‎17‎/‎2018 at 2:20 PM, Jake said:

How so? Every PPF installer I have ever known will use a hypodermic needle to pull out a small air pocket if needed myself included. I have never once seen an issue.

I agree. I have ben using them for years and ZERO issues. Just make sure you are using the smallest diabetic needle you can get. Also I have seen bubbles smaller than a nickel leave air bubbles... so make sure toy get them all out before releasing the vehicle to the customer. 

I will agree Ford has some pretty bad paint. I have wrapped around 8 Raptors in the last 6 months and I have found dirt in the paint on every single one... and multiple pieces at that. But with that said most of them do not show up with air pockets around them because they have clear coat over the dirt particle making them a little smoother. That looks like dirt... which is from poor prep work. I would just ask him to replace those pieces... and to be fair you got a GREAT deal on that price wise so maybe even try to offer to pay for part of it to help out. I don't know the installer but I am assuming he is fairly new which is why his pricing is so low. Jobs like this can really hurt the guys business... so any help would make it much easier on him. After all guys we all started from somewhere and if these are the only issues on a full vehicle wrap... well I will just say I have seen a LOT WORSE. 

We offer Opti-Coat Pro at our shop. Application is so much easier than PPF. There is also a high profit margin on it... so I think it would be a good add on. Most of the cars we work on are new so minimal paint correction is needed. I think it would be a great service to offer as we do a lot of ceramic coatings with the vehicles we are applying film to. 

I am a big fan of Suntek Ultra film. I have either used or tested out most of the films out there and to me its the best film out. However the Suntek patterns could  be better. I would say 85% of the  time they are spot on but there is the occasional pattern that needs work. DAP has some great patterns but its VERY pricy and if you aren't using Xpel Ultimate film its even more so. With the volume of installs we are doing in a month I would guess I would be spending an extra $2500-3000 easily in cutting fees. I have tried Premiumshield Elite. Good film and the patterns were great. I just didn't like having cut codes for suing the software. 3M came by with their new film recently and I really liked the ease of use. Still testing it out so not offering it yet... but so far so good. I hear their patterns are pretty good and they seem to offer more patterns per vehicle than Suntek currently does. 

I have been using Suntek since it came out and no issues with sticking. I use J&J baby shampoo and it works just fine. In fact we have two Raptors in the shop right now... one full front and lowers the other full vehicle. The hoods lay nice and easy. The only time I have had issues with film not sticking is if it was ceramic coated first and there were distinct valleys in the panels. If that the case I use more tack solution in those areas. I use a pressure tank to apply my slip solution and spray bottles to apply my tack solution just where I need it. Sounds to me like you may be a little heavy with your baby shampoo in your slip. 

Such small amount of customers would want to pay that much for "something no one else has done".... and after one install no one else could make that claim. I guess that's why they don't make it anymore... not to mention matte black has been played out for years. One other thing to note is I could have wrapped numerous vehicles in the time it is taking you to finish one. Do you think its been worth it profit wise?

Great job on the install.

Really the first thing to consider is what car is it? If the roof and truck are pretty flat then no issues what so ever. If it is pretty domed or has some distinct valleys in it then there might be problems.

Guess I would have to see it in person. From the pic I saw it looks exactly like matte vinyl.

Really there is no easy way. Steam does help but be prepared for a lot of work. Fortunately the areas you are removing are not that large.