DOOTINT

Each diff auto glass has diff ways to make easyier and you need to learn them tricks

Some people learn faster than others so no real # of cars and must learn from mistakes and cant be afraid to throw a 3ft piece of film in the garbege and learn why that window film install didnt come out good?

And Audis are one of the worst doorglass with tight seals(all the way around) and deep tight vertical sides and if you can do them most others are easy

I just say No to rearglass tint removals or inform them i am not replacing the window and they can do it with their car insurance if it gets damaged

A tint shop in the next bigger county from me makes everyone sign a waiver before they do anything to the auto because of stuff like that

My printed graphics making buddy have the measurements for a wrap but havent thought about it in a while because i dont use it much yet 

Unnecc steps are cleaning the bottom edge after rolling the window up and then trying to tuck the film and having to heatgun almost everydoorglass before or after install

After about 25yrs of gasket wizards? If they scratched the bottom edge of the film? I would be removing or popping every seal instead 

I have some diff sizes and had them made/copyed the orig set from.early 90s

This gasket shield of my set is 28in long and just fit a big caddy door and makes it very nice to slide the film in and keeps the whole felty/dirty seals away to keep the bottom edge clean and the lower seal stays dry so water wont make a finger and i dont use the heatgun on very many doorglass other than a occasional side crease(rushing to fast?) to iron out from the inside

I dont really like the 1/2 ones and have to slide them across to feed the film because you could scratch the top of the door panel on some auto and or maybe rip the film

They make almost any honda/subaru/nissan/toyota(loose seals)and most US cars a breeze for bottom loading and no panel of seal removal

Started looking for synth steel wool but didnt find any at homedepot or walmart or couple hardware stores so i forgot about it till now but i did buy some packs of 00 and 000 and some more white scotchbrite pads

I removed that side metal fitting coupler and ran a pipe tap thru the hole that fit the pressure guage pipe threads and i looked at various guages to find a flush mounting one that was below the handles(harbor freight)

I found mine in the ditch frozen in the ice(1/4in) with just the top sticking out

Needed some pin holes welded up and got a used threaded fitting($5) and coupler($7) from the brew store then a $4 pressure guage and air fitting($2) used air hose and spray nozzle $?

In the end i wasted more time than it is worth running around to find all that and the fix up welding and some threading that a buddy with machine shop helped me with but its okay to have and still havent lugged it to any flatglass job yet lol

Are the windows tinted?

The cheaper clear hose didnt work with 100psi(bloated) but worked fine with my pump up sprayer

I used a old airhose for the corny

There are cheap chinese generaters for a few hundred but that little honda is very quiet compared to about any of them

If somebody doesnt have power or a decent garage? No mobile auto tinting from me

 Will a power inverter run a heatgun/they chew up some wattage

I had to learn powder shrinking for those vettes were you cant seam them nice

1 minute ago, Bham said:

My five or six timer was a 78 Trans Am bandit edition rear glass.  What a PITA   

Those were my fav lol i was good at those and the bubble non hatch 79-81 vettes were rough but i did one last yr or so with powder 1 piece pretty easy with all the panels removed and seats also

Dawn if you have to use it only needs about 1/2 as much as baby shampoo for slip=Very slippery stuff

My sons 04 chev truck fullsize that i have done more than any doorglass(2000-2013)=the passenger door somehow got a piece of hair floated in somehow then redid it and a small bug got in there arrg(night time job?) then did it again and was good i thought til a day later when he rolled the window down and i had it past the top edge and it folded when rolled up(vent visors suck)to see the top edge lol 

Hast makes waste when trying to get them done in 5min

Those bent plastic strips you have probly are not strong enough to pull the seal away to slide the film in nicely

Maybe i can get someone to take pics of how i manage with the metal ones

This was fun/Bentley when you open the doors the wing windows/doors and 1/4s all drop abit and the top of the rear seat headrests to the roof line was about 6in of room the get the rear film on

Another shop told the guy he needed ceramic tint that they didnt have lol@ I could see they attempted the 1/4 glass=glue specs

Fusion rear glass is pretty easy? Franky it on?

.

Oh its Pleather? Maybe see if a local auto upohlstry shop can glue.it back down

Them dodge helped(jeep)dashes dont need any help falling apart and basically they are rattle traps

A tint shop around here makes people sign a waiver to exempt them from any tint related issues and in the fine print exempts them from any damage caused to the auto sounds bad but some custys are from hell

Not sure what to tell you on this and since 1989 i have only had to 1/2 pay for a rear door glass window regulater unit that failed when i rolled the window down/power window=$75 of the $150 and i fixed other stuff i have messed up for sure lol

Had to remove film from a Customs/Border(usa/canada border) booth office windows that they couldnt see out of very good at night esp@somebody put film that was silver on the inside and grey(purple) on the outside and was hard to see that was the problem til i removed it@ then installed some "DR5%",,,,what was on the glass is used for interior one way mirror film

I have done work for them customs and the bridge commission for years but had to get "vetted" to work there now lol i didnt take any pics and there are lots of other booths with crappy tint somebody else did and they trust me for advice on that and have done all the newer booths