Remote starter only works with key in ingnition

[Guest semore]

I think it has more to do with crossing up the jumper cables...than  re-programming the remote

the PATS anti-theft Exact-Oh was talking about

bypasses the chip in the key

is is probably fried, or has a blown fuse on that piece...buried in the steering column

[*]348818

Hey I was looking in the manual and it looks like the OEM remote is on the same 15 amp cuircut that the anti-theft is on. Also I never said this that the oem remote unlocks and locks the doors. I dont know if this helps? But thought I would let you know that.

Thanks

[Exact-Oh]

I think it has more to do with crossing up the jumper cables...than? re-programming the remote

the PATS anti-theft Exact-Oh was talking about

bypasses the chip in the key

is is probably fried, or has a blown fuse on that piece...buried in the steering column

[*]348818

If I am reading your description properly, you have three seperate systems here. One is the factory Ford keyless, one is the after-market remote-start unit, and the third is the PATS bypass unit.

The PATS bypass unit is aftermarket, and you won't find info on it in your Ford manual. It is a component that must be installed in leui of the remote-start system to bypass the transponder anti-theft system while remote starting the vehicle.

From the description of your problem, the PATS bypass unit is causing your problem. These bypass units have +12V power and ground wires seperate of the factory remote and aftermarket remote-starter, and it is located under the steering column somewhere. You will not find the fuse for this unit in any of the vehicle's fuse boxes, they are normally located in series, right in the power wire running to the unit.

Like Zolar said, the problem probably occured while crossing the wires on the jump start, not reprogramming remotes.

[Guest semore]

I think it has more to do with crossing up the jumper cables...than  re-programming the remote

the PATS anti-theft Exact-Oh was talking about

bypasses the chip in the key

is is probably fried, or has a blown fuse on that piece...buried in the steering column

[*]348818

If I am reading your description properly, you have three seperate systems here. One is the factory Ford keyless, one is the after-market remote-start unit, and the third is the PATS bypass unit.

The PATS bypass unit is aftermarket, and you won't find info on it in your Ford manual. It is a component that must be installed in leui of the remote-start system to bypass the transponder anti-theft system while remote starting the vehicle.

From the description of your problem, the PATS bypass unit is causing your problem. These bypass units have +12V power and ground wires seperate of the factory remote and aftermarket remote-starter, and it is located under the steering column somewhere. You will not find the fuse for this unit in any of the vehicle's fuse boxes, they are normally located in series, right in the power wire running to the unit.

Like Zolar said, the problem probably occured while crossing the wires on the jump start, not reprogramming remotes.

[*]348940

So I should be looking for a inline fuse near tthe steering colum? Should I call tthe installers (ciurcut) andd ask them where the PATS s located? they dont want to work I already called them once. Thanks Semore

[Exact-Oh]

Look under your steering column for two non-factory boxes. One of them will have about five large (12 gauge) wires running directly to the 12 gauge wires leading from the ignition tumbler. That box is the remote-start unit. The PATS unit will be located near the remote-start unit and there will be at least one small (18 gauge) wire running to it from the remote-start unit. There will also be smaller (22 gauge) wires, either one or two of them, running from the PATS bypass box to the ignition tumbler. These wires will not be soldered to any wires on the car, they just wrap around the ignition tumbler a specific number of turns.

Check out all of the other wires running to the PATS bypass box. The +12V wire will probably be red (approx. 18 gauge), and the ground wire will probably be black. Check for an inline fuse in that red wire, and check the ground wire to make sure it is properly grounded.

[Guest semore]

Thanks for the dettaiiled info. I will be on tthe greatt search now.

Thanks semore

[Guest semore]

Well I found out the issue: The key lostts iits progrrmaing. so I need a 3rd key made and programed to gett the 2nd key programed. but its a easy fiix.

tthanks All

[Exact-Oh]

The key buried in the bypass unit lost it's programming I take it. Yeah, that would give you the same result, as the bypass unit will not work w/o a proper key in it.

Yes, you need two or more operational keys in order to program another.

If you need a procedure on how to program more keys, let me know.

[Guest semore]

Ya I would llike to learn the proces in programing keys. Thanks Semore

[Exact-Oh]

Again, you must have two operational keys to do this.

1. Insert first good key into ignition and turn to 'on' position for at least one second.

2. Remove first key from the ignition and within five seconds, insert second good key into ignition and turn to the 'on' position for at least one second.

3. Remove second key from the ignition and within five seconds, insert the new, unprogrammed, key into the ignition and turn to the 'on' positon for at least one second.

4. Remove new key from ignition.

The transponder in the new key should now be programmed. To test it, try and start the car with it. If the car starts, you're in business, if not, repeat the above procedure.