Tinting 72 Olds rear (flat) window?

June 24, 2006

Your question about how to flush. I twist the nozzell on the spray bottle so it makes a full stream. Soak up what goes to the bottom with lots of paper towels or a big towel. Wipe real good. Bight need to dig out some overhanging rubber or there may be pleanty of room in there....Seems like I remember that window might be a hair bit bigger inside than it is out so if you cut to fit along the rubber outside you may have a light gap inside when you install. But I could be wrong. If it were me I'd cut it along one side and across the bottom then lift, wet and reposition it over and down at least a quarter of an inch so you have a little extra. If it has any fingers they will be minimal. You'll see those as you wet the glass, lay the big piece on there and carefully squeegee it to the glass on the outside before you start cutting around that rubber . Might not be any once it's cut... it might lay right on down against the glass.

If there are any fingers, and you need to heat them, lift, wet and reposition it again so you have a space below the film between it and that rubber. Same for the top. Sounds like a lot of scooting but that is what I would do.

tint_detective · June 25, 2006

I agee. cut the film only about 1/8 of an inch over the black border to avoid glueing the tint to the window adhesive .

Good idea, since the butyl rubber doesn't harden, that may be the way to go. Thanks!

One more question: A tinter friend of mine said to watch out for the dreaded fingers. So far, I haven't had that problem on the side windows. Is it more likely now that I'll see them on the rear windows. Though I have a heat gun, I don't think I've mastered the heat shrinking procedure yet. I've read postings on this subject but still not sure if I understand.

Am I correct here? I heat on the outside of the glass at the top of the finger and work the finder down with the squeegee on the inside of the glass. Keep the inside wet, squeegee the hell out of it, and don't let it heat the tint too much. Is that about right?

Dave

I agee. cut the film only about 1/8 of an inch over the black border to avoid glueing the tint to the window adhesive .

Good idea, since the butyl rubber doesn't harden, that may be the way to go. Thanks!

One more question: A tinter friend of mine said to watch out for the dreaded fingers. So far, I haven't had that problem on the side windows. Is it more likely now that I'll see them on the rear windows. Though I have a heat gun, I don't think I've mastered the heat shrinking procedure yet. I've read postings on this subject but still not sure if I understand.

Am I correct here? I heat on the outside of the glass at the top of the finger and work the finder down with the squeegee on the inside of the glass. Keep the inside wet, squeegee the hell out of it, and don't let it heat the tint too much. Is that about right?

Dave

BTW: I tried to remove the rear window but the butyl rubber started to come apart. Since I have to special order the rubber, I'm going to try it with the window installed.

I would still shrink it on the outside first to help ensure a good fit.

As for removing the Bglass.

The butyl tape rolls are cheap, about 20-30 dollars.

As I recall those back glass's are set in with a butyl kit and have metal trim on the outside.(no rubber gasket to deal with)

Removal is a snap with a drag knife or piano wire, after removing the trim.

If you decide to do it in the car, I would try reverse rolling to install it, after shrinking and wet checking.. :nohit:

June 25, 2006

I agee. cut the film only about 1/8 of an inch over the black border to avoid glueing the tint to the window adhesive .

Good idea, since the butyl rubber doesn't harden, that may be the way to go. Thanks!

One more question: A tinter friend of mine said to watch out for the dreaded fingers. So far, I haven't had that problem on the side windows. Is it more likely now that I'll see them on the rear windows. Though I have a heat gun, I don't think I've mastered the heat shrinking procedure yet. I've read postings on this subject but still not sure if I understand.

Am I correct here? I heat on the outside of the glass at the top of the finger and work the finder down with the squeegee on the inside of the glass. Keep the inside wet, squeegee the hell out of it, and don't let it heat the tint too much. Is that about right?

Dave

I agee. cut the film only about 1/8 of an inch over the black border to avoid glueing the tint to the window adhesive .

Good idea, since the butyl rubber doesn't harden, that may be the way to go. Thanks!

One more question: A tinter friend of mine said to watch out for the dreaded fingers. So far, I haven't had that problem on the side windows. Is it more likely now that I'll see them on the rear windows. Though I have a heat gun, I don't think I've mastered the heat shrinking procedure yet. I've read postings on this subject but still not sure if I understand.

Am I correct here? I heat on the outside of the glass at the top of the finger and work the finder down with the squeegee on the inside of the glass. Keep the inside wet, squeegee the hell out of it, and don't let it heat the tint too much. Is that about right?

Dave

BTW: I tried to remove the rear window but the butyl rubber started to come apart. Since I have to special order the rubber, I'm going to try it with the window installed.

I would still shrink it on the outside first to help ensure a good fit.

As for removing the Bglass.

The butyl tape rolls are cheap, about 20-30 dollars.

As I recall those back glass's are set in with a butyl kit and have metal trim on the outside.(no rubber gasket to deal with)

Removal is a snap with a drag knife or piano wire, after removing the trim.

If you decide to do it in the car, I would try reverse rolling to install it, after shrinking and wet checking..

Thanks for all the options!

big money · June 25, 2006

If you decide to remove the glass, there is also another option. They make a black glass primer that comes with a sponge applicator attached to the end of it, kinda like a shoe polish applicator. You can apply a black border around the perimater of the window and make it look like all of the new vehicles. All you have to do is tape off the edges of the glass to the width you want. It should permanently bond, so if you have problems with the "gila "later on, you can remove the film and reinstall on a black border with no light gaps. We started doing this here on a few custom hot rods, and now its all we do because everyone likes the new look, and as was said, butyl tape is cheap, and if you are restoring this car, it may be a good idea to remove the chrome and check for any rust, clean and prime to prevent it from spreading. Hope this helps. :nohit:

June 25, 2006

go to a pro.scools oyt for summer.

tint_detective · June 25, 2006

If you decide to remove the glass, there is also another option. They make a black glass primer that comes with a sponge applicator attached to the end of it, kinda like a shoe polish applicator. You can apply a black border around the perimater of the window and make it look like all of the new vehicles. All you have to do is tape off the edges of the glass to the width you want. It should permanently bond, so if you have problems with the "gila "later on, you can remove the film and reinstall on a black border with no light gaps. We started doing this here on a few custom hot rods, and now its all we do because everyone likes the new look, and as was said, butyl tape is cheap, and if you are restoring this car, it may be a good idea to remove the chrome and check for any rust, clean and prime to prevent it from spreading. Hope this helps.

June 26, 2006

If you decide to remove the glass, there is also another option. They make a black glass primer that comes with a sponge applicator attached to the end of it, kinda like a shoe polish applicator. You can apply a black border around the perimater of the window and make it look like all of the new vehicles. All you have to do is tape off the edges of the glass to the width you want. It should permanently bond, so if you have problems with the "gila "later on, you can remove the film and reinstall on a black border with no light gaps. We started doing this here on a few custom hot rods, and now its all we do because everyone likes the new look, and as was said, butyl tape is cheap, and if you are restoring this car, it may be a good idea to remove the chrome and check for any rust, clean and prime to prevent it from spreading. Hope this helps.

learn somthing new every day

where do you get this primer at ?

sounds like something good to have in the shop

never know when you will need it :rollin

big money · June 26, 2006

If you decide to remove the glass, there is also another option. They make a black glass primer that comes with a sponge applicator attached to the end of it, kinda like a shoe polish applicator. You can apply a black border around the perimater of the window and make it look like all of the new vehicles. All you have to do is tape off the edges of the glass to the width you want. It should permanently bond, so if you have problems with the "gila "later on, you can remove the film and reinstall on a black border with no light gaps. We started doing this here on a few custom hot rods, and now its all we do because everyone likes the new look, and as was said, butyl tape is cheap, and if you are restoring this car, it may be a good idea to remove the chrome and check for any rust, clean and prime to prevent it from spreading. Hope this helps.

learn somthing new every day

where do you get this primer at ?

sounds like something good to have in the shop

never know when you will need it

We buy ours from our auto glass supplier, PPG. The stuff is called Betaprime Urethane Primers, 5500 sa 1-Step Glass/Frit Primer. It is made by Dow Automotive. You could try CR lawrence for a similar product, or Somaca. There are most likely several companies out there.

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