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Does anyone know of a bottom loading tool that is used so that you can load the tint from the bottom without taking the door panel off on Mercedes Benz vehicles. I saw one that a guy made and sells bit I don't know how to contact him. Has anyone used something like this and does it work well.

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You need an edge. http://www.conquerertools.com/product_info.php?cPath=3&products_id=153

 

Those metal ones will damage door panel tops or even been known to snap lami-glass. First generation of this tool was made in 1982 out of a five-way.

 

If you buy The Edge it will need a bit-o-modifying since its curve was set to accommodate both auto and flat glass use. 44tools came to market with it after a consultation of usability whereby it was recommended the angle be increased slightly to work for both a gasket pullback tool and a flat glass trim guide allowing your hand to be out of the way when trimming.

 

To modify or increase the angle for more secure use in auto just find a heat safe crack to slip it in and apply pressure on the handle while heating the curve region with a heat gun. Slowly increase the temp of the plastic until it bends to your pressure. An aluminum frame entry door crack works great for reshaping this tool.  

 

The tool (whether metal or plastic) is slipped into and below the bottom auto window rub rail at the tools' corner and the remainder goes while sliding along the window rub rail. Start as close to one side as the tool allows.

 

Once the tool is inserted, you are ready to apply your pattern. Remember the tool needs one hand for pulling the rub rail back while your other is used to manipulate film below the gasket. It's a coordinated effort. All the while you are keeping the film pattern from touching any framing. LOL! There is definitely a lot of finesse needed to succeed.

 

I entered installation in 1980 where bottom feed was the norm in Florida. I would usually begin by placing the pattern on the glass along the bottom while allowing the top to drape down onto my arm. I worked the front corner in first and moved toward the back. The edge tool would be on the move using the one hand with film draped arm working to feed the bottom in as the tool passed along the rub rail. Once the bottom was fed in under the gasket far enough to allow flipping the rest of the pattern onto the glass, I would respray exposed adhesive and gradually feed the top half into place. 

 

Bump the window down to expose the glass edge, spray the top of the glass and slide the pattern up into micro-edge position along the top glass edge. Auto roll down was a biotch until learning the delay on those switches, which really only took a couple of lost pieces before getting it. 

 

This method required cleaning well below the gasket line because of the amount needed to feed downward to 'not' have the film's adhesive striking any frame rubber or taped-felt during the process. I can tell you that once mastered it will serve as an alternative to top feed when top feed is more challenging. Bottom feed works wonderfully well for frame-less doors like those found on some Subaru models. And, not so wonderful when there are tight tolerances between glass and tight-azz tension gasket like some Beemers and Cedes have.

 

Today I can pick and choose between the top-feed and bottom-feed at will. Good luck!  :thumb

 

Edit: God gifted me with the ability to splain in words because I'm so inept at video.  :lol

Edited by smartie2shoes
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5 minutes and one cut middle finger later. Not exactly the same but pretty close.

I saw this tool on the FB pros group, can get the contact info for you. I would do what smartie says though, after looking at the one the op of this one had and talking with him about I definitely think Smartie is on the same page with a tweet. I don't bottom load but I have done a few where this would be a better choice for tucking than using a red devil or any thing.
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