Dot Matrix Fix

[Guest H?perOptik]

ok, finally got some pics done up...

dot matrix pose a prob for most tinters.. glue can be messy, vinyl while good, adds cost to the tint job. heat guns may result in ghosting etc,

alternatively use a metal squeegee, heat up with a lighter till its warm, and apply on the dot matrix area as per normal squeegee... DO NOT HEAT TILL METAL TURNS RED. a coupla practice runs should give you an idea of how much to heat the squeegee.

p/s metal blade is blunt.

[Guest H?perOptik]

heating the metal...

[Guest H?perOptik]

squeegeeing the dot matrix

[Guest metint]

Somehow I can't believe red-hot metal and window film are a good match. I can see it now...

I've been working on a concept of hot metal to film after installation... and the early findings are that it really changes the film's appearance, resulting in needed hiding of flaws from an exterior point of view, but leaving the film visibly darker (scorched or parched) from the interior.

I use a heat gun instead of open flame... again, the idea of red-hot and film together...

[Guest thetintshop]

metal to film? not me.

[Guest H?perOptik]

Somehow I can't believe red-hot metal and window film are a good match. I can see it now...  

I've been working on a concept of hot metal to film after installation... and the early findings are that it really changes the film's appearance, resulting in needed hiding of flaws from an exterior point of view, but leaving the film visibly darker (scorched or parched) from the interior. 

I use a heat gun instead of open flame... again, the idea of red-hot and film together...

not really open film.. concept is quite similar to heat gun, except the heat transfer is not just airwaves, but using the metal to push down on the dot matrix. no visible affect on the film as the metal is not red hot, just warm.

may sound hard to achieve, but all it takes is a bit of practice, small piece of film on a spare back glass to get the temp rite. saves a fair bit of time compared to merely using heat gun. anyways, merely suggesting an alternative. stick to what you are currently using if you are comfie with it.

[Guest Eclipse]

I think I will pass on that one. Looks like it would be easy to damage the film.

[Guest H?perOptik]

btw.. you apply the film as per normal, the metal is used only for the dot matrix areas that dont stick well...

[Guest metint]

metal is not red hot, just warm.

may sound hard to achieve, but all it takes is a bit of practice, small piece of film on a spare back glass to get the temp rite. saves a fair bit of time compared to merely using heat gun. anyways, merely suggesting an alternative. stick to what you are currently using if you are comfie with it.

I'm with you now... no red-hot, but wouldn't the metal be too rigid to press film in between dots?

Trying a similar idea with a burnisher used in embossing... heat the tip with a heat gun to the right temp and use to take the exterior silver/white look out of creases, fiber or dust contaminant specks or small trapped air bubbles. Does nicely, but all are still visible from the inside.

1/8 inch Ball tip burnisher with wood or plastic handle... works well for that last minute spotting a speck top corner driver door just before the car is picked up.

This would be my tip-of-the-week!

[Protint]

Have you ever tried dry dropping the film? It seems much safter and doesn't alter the look of the film.