problems with wood frames

[Guest shattered]

Hey

Recently did a home that was about 15 years old the frames around the glass are wood. the varnish was in rather bad shape on the bottom with mold even on the bottom. Any way I did show the customer this but a week later he calls and says his varnish is all bubbling aroud the whole window. Went and took a look at it. Its not as bad as he says but yes it does seem to be a little worse. He tried to tell me it was my solution I used (Slip EZ by beckert) He thinks beakert should warrenty this Which there is now way this is going to happen. What did happen was his varnish was in bad shape and when the water got on that old dry wood it soaked it right up. So what do I do now and has this happened to any of you and what did you do? How do I prevent this from happening on the next one. At this point I am feed up with flat glass and may just stick with autos

[TintWizard]

wood framed installs are of good quality with a sound cleaning and instal procedure...search the data base , you'll find lots I'm sure on wood frames.

One of my tricks is to scrape with 4" scraper then adjust your spray nozzle to "stream" ..and soak the perimeter of window...that "flushes" out all the crap trapped in the frame that would have come out during instal.. now squeege it all away. Now it's time for install, lightly spray the body of glass(keep away from edges now that you've flushed,squeeged and toweled them), spray film and install. When squeegeing film out, dont bring squeege to the edge, it creates a vacum and sucks stuff out, instead trim your edges , then wick out rest of water. hope this helps a bit

[Guest pmuzik]

I have run into similar situations and as you and I point it out to the customer and in a polite way tell them that their varnish or paint is ***s up and what is left of it will probably come off when I clean the window this is CLEARLY written on their proposal by the way to avoid what your going thru now. I have not had anyone tell me that they think the installation or solution made it happen YET anyway Good luck with your dilemma

[Devil with bad attitude]

Inexperience= lambs to the slaughter.

The job should never have been taken on without really explaining the pros and cons of taking it on in that condition. I refused to measure one last week despite going out of my way to quote it because it was exactly as you described with your install.

Tint knowledge will only come in time and thousands of flat glass windows under your belt.

It's a very quick learning experience, one you'll surely gain from.

Devil

[Guest metint]

How do I prevent this from happening on the next one.

Purchase at the local home improvement center clear acrylic (adhesive) caulking and a day or two or more before the install date go to the home, dry scrape the glass at the frame edge, brush or vacuum clean and then seal all the edges with a fine bead of clear acrylic. Make sure the acrylic gets inside between the glass surface and the frame edge. Allow 1-2 days curing before film installation.

When prepping for the install use your olfa to carefully carve the caulk parallel or flush with the frame and remove any excess. This creates an artificial dam at the frame edge, keeping old varnish or shellac from seeping under your film and keeps moisture from seeping under the wood frame.

Charge accordingly for this. It will also set you miles apart from any competitive bid.

[Guest TINTFXold]

very good, metint. I agree with all of that and what Devil had to say about 1000's of windows in ones belt. Flat work is so conditional. You never know what kind of new pre-installation prep work you'll have to come up with and as always CHARGE ACCORDINGLY

[Guest pmuzik]

CHARGE ACCORDINGLY

:fx

[Guest TintPoser]

CHARGE ACCORDINGLY

And eliminate your liability by addressing possible problems with the client. (in writting)

Live and learn, Die and forget.

[Guest dent-techs.com]

TELL THE CUSTOMER TO $%#@ OFF! NO REALLY KICK HIM IN THE BALLS AND THEN TELL HIM TO $%#@ OFF IF THAT DOESN'T WORK TELL HIM TO GIVE IT 30 DAYS FOR ALL THE MOISTURE IN THE WOOD TO DRY OUT. IT IS ONLY SWOLLEN FRO THE WATER. IN 30-DAYS THE WOOD WILL PROBALLY DRY SOME, HE'LL PROBALLY FORGET ABOUT IT, OR REALIZE THAT NOT MATTER WHAT HE THINKS YOU SHOULD DO HE STILL DOESN'T HAVE A CASE. BETTER YET SOME HE'LL PROBALLY FIND SOME OTHER POOR UNSUSPECTING AND HONEST MAN TO $%#@ OVER. IF THAT DOESN'T WORK THEN GIVE HIM THE NUMBER TO BEAKART OR WHOEVER YOU BUY YOUR FILM FROM AND LET THEM MESS WITH THE ASS HOLE. IN THE FUTURE YOU SHOULD HAVE SOME GENERAL LIABILITY EXCLUSIION ON YOUR INVOICE AND MAKE THEM SIGN OFF BEFORE YOU START WORKING IN THEIR HOUSE. I'VE HAD A FEW PEOPLE BLAME THEIR CRAPPY PAINT ON THEIR WINDOW SEAL ON ME. YOU MIGHT LOSE SOME REFERALLS OVER THE WHOLE DEAL BUT CHANCES ARE THOSE ASS HOLE DON'T HAVE ANY FREINDS ANYWAY AND THE HAVE NO LEGAL GROUN D TO SUE YOU! THEY NEED TO SUE WHOEVER LAQUER TRHEIR DOOR. iT NO YOUR FAULT THAT YOU EXPOSED A PREXISTING DEFECT IN SOMEONE ELSES WORKMANSHIP.

[Devil with bad attitude]

At the time of measuring, you failed to recognise the hazard.

What should have been done was to advise the client he repaint/revarnish his frames before the install.

I did one like this recently, the client had the windows painted by hubby, the job came out flawless because the new work sealed all the crud. That's the way to sell.....

I suppose you can now only argue that the frame condition was crook prior to your fitting and you can't be held responsible for wear and tear aging but I don't like your chances. He might argue you should have pointed that out first so he could have made a more informed decision.

I don't see where the problem is. Sorry.

Devil