tinter101

After tint is completed on this car, the windows squeak loudly when in motion up or down.

The inner sweep/molding is very tight at the tall end of the window and this is where the noise comes from.

We've dicovered that the squeak goes away when it dries however it will occur again after it rains or a car wash.

I don't know of any solution other than removing the tint. I will no longer tint this car which is a shame because

it's an easy car to tint. At very least, discuss this with your customer prior to tinting and get them to agree to live with it.

We finished the car and the rear doors are really the only issue. The panel needs to be removed, then the power screen has to be removed, then you need plug the screen back in and leave the panel off. The window can be nudged up and down from the driver door. This is how we did it, if anyone has a better way, please share.

I'm half way through tinting a Lucid Air and just thought I would give you all a heads up.

The rear doors on this model have screens which are in the way. Even if you tint with panels on,

it will be a problem. There's a wide rubber molding that is also in the way. Add in $$ for time and effort.

I didn't see anything in makes and models so I'm just asking before I take it in.

Is there anything we should know about before we take it in?

Thanks in advance.

Every tint shop needs tinters, you already know that. Why not pick the best fit for you. We are not a high volume/high stress shop.

We are the only FormulaOne Llumar dealer in WI. Over 35 years in business means job security. Go to our website and look around.

See our prices. Do you want commission? Do you want flat rate or hourly. Full or part time, whatever works for you. We have 2 installers

currently and looking to add 1 or 2 more. Bring a friend. We are in a low crime area with no rush hour traffic to deal with. We can pick and 

choose the vehicles we take in so no old beaters with removal of old film if we choose.  Go to www.blackoutwindowservice.com and 

check us out. Even if you aren't ready now, keep us in mind next year or the next. We can do a contract to guarantee full time employment 

year round. Do you need help with moving expenses? You let me know how much money you want to make. The worse that could happen is I say no.

Please reply to blackoutwindowsevice@gmail.com or text me at 414-329-4000 (text only).

I have one I'm not using. I'll dig it out and post a pic.

So, it looks like some trim levels of the new Jeep Grand Wagoneer went back to a bronze semi-reflective glass in the rear. (Circa 1989)

Does anyone know of any tint out there that would look better than putting a regular charcoal film on there? It's 27% in the back

so a 30% or 35% even would be desired. All I can think of is the old Lulu ATR bronze but I only have 50% left from those days.

Any help would be appreciated and then this post should probably be moved to makes and models.

Thanks and heads up to everyone when you quote this one over the phone.

Anyone take this out?

It's 2.5 feet wide with a rubber gasket pressed against the glass.

I'll try to get a pic.

It has become very obvious that Mercedes has a batch of vehicles out there with defective defroster wires.

Let me clarify that. The wires may be completely intact and working but the problem occurs when anyone

touches the wires, such as cleaning the rear window, taping a temp tag to the glass or tinting process.

I believe that there is some final step to cure the wires to the glass during manufacturing that was skipped

or done wrong. The pic on the right below is a 2018 E class, we tinted the glass and then realizing that some of the wires

were messed up, we pulled the film back off the window while wet (2 min after install). All the wires came off the glass.

We sent the customer to the dealer and they replaced the window under warranty.

Yesterday we did a removal on a 2015 E class wagon and as we steamed the rear film off, many of the wires

simply pulled off with the film.

This morning as we were prepping a 2015 E class for tint we pulled the temp tag off the glass using our fingers

and the scotch tape pulled the defrost wires off. The second pic shows the temp tag from this morning, (look closely at the tape).

Clearly this should not happen and the fact that all have been E class Mercedes is telling.

My guy is able to pop the rear panel away for access but I don't know how he does it. Takes him about 10 minutes per side. Worth it in my opinion.

Thanks for this detailed thread Autoevo.

Last 2 of these had the issue and both dried out fine but I will now pull the panel back there and cover everything up.

Thanks again.

Over the years we have determined that a problem can occur when tinting this vehicle.

We have had at least 4 customers over the years call us saying that a dash light has come on right after we tinted this car.

The light has something to do with the SRS safety restraint system and possibly the passenger side front more specifically.

The fix is a trip to the dealer to reset the code.

Why it happens we found out is when we are ready to install the back window tint, we normally move the seat all the way forward to make room getting in with  the large piece of film. Apparently when you move the passenger seat all the way forward, the wiring under the seat get stretched out and partially unplugs causing the problem.

So technically the owner of the car could move the seat all the way up to vaccuum and could cause this issue, we get blamed because we were the last ones in the car but it has nothing to do with tinting.

Hope this saves someone down the road.

Just like the A5, the 2011 A4 Amp located in the driver side of the trunk will get wet and have to be replaced.

Attention everyone. The 2011 Audi A4 has the same setup as the A5 with the amp in the trunk area. As we found out the hard way, water will travel down and destroy the amp.

You have been warned.