pbalentine

I out started watching some video i got a hold of.  Showed how it was

done. Mostly tintdude taught, so many things ive learned on here are part of the routine i do now. 

Here's mine...I designed it myself mostly. Recently added a new navigation menu.  

ProLine Window Tint

https://prolinewindowtint.com/

The best method is using top load and bottom.  Knowing top load method will make you much better at handling the film. A lot of you guys mention doing the bottom load to avoid creases.  Bottom load does help avoid creases, but is not the main reason i choose to do it. I do it to avoid felt contamination at the bottom edge. Tucking is hit or miss, inconsistent and sometime impossible on some vehicles.  For instance the 2003 Bmw 328 im doing today. The felt on on beemers is some of worst when theyre old and just falls off. Panels off=problem solved.  Used to hate old beemers, not anymore. 

True, theres a lot of harmful things we cant avoid. Hell, the air we breathe is probably more harmful than film adhesive, but if i can avoid it i will. I exposed my self to so much shiat in my life, especially working i cars that i could of avoided. Once i heard J&J shampoo in the US had harmful stuff in it i stopped using it. Like i said, if i can avoid it, why not.

Elmers clear

Tight work! What shade/film?

I do remember someone on here mentioned they took precaution when removing a FG film that flaked and had nasty adhesive.  Ive just never heard much about this and that why i asked. 

Like QT mentioned, chemicals to remove are whats to worry about and is readon i dont use them. Had rapid remover burn my hand and tossed it in the trash!!

The safety of removing window film is something i have thought about time to time.  Is the adhesive that is scraped off safe to touch skin?? Also, what about when you need to scrap film off and all the clear flakes from the scratch coat cover your arms???

Id say the first dozen or so were tuff. Some i could do, then next time round had trouble.  I been waiting for tinting to be easy and it never did...until i started bottom loading.  It less stressful, no killing your wrist by chisling out creases, and its easier to handle for install. 

I bottom loaded a 17' Fusion today and it was easier then the last. The rear rollups on it are a must to bottom load.   

I use J&J for slip and dawn platinum to clean with. It says it cuts through grease and removes stuck on food.  That show that it cant be good for adhesive.  For removals i add extra dawn and soak the bg.  Definelty helps remove adhesive.

I use a shot glass that has oz, ml, & tsp measurements.  For my 48 oz Imact Jr. in 110* degrees I use 1 1/4 oz of generic baby shampoo (tint slime 1 3/4 oz) In 75* i use 3/4 oz, 50* 1/4 oz. For accuracy I fill bottle about 3/4 with water, pour slip and rinse glass to get all of it. This way no sudds/soap escapes and i always have the right amount of slip. 

I like to remove the spoiler and wiper on the hatchback. I think its like 6 bolts.  

No, I held my 22" roll up against a 17' F250 & F150 XLT (same rollup size as F250) and it wasnt even close. 

I dont like handling 24" roll when the majortiy are just small windows you dont need it for. Turning the 40" or 36" sideways is the way. If shrinkng is needed i just roll out the 40" and save the bottom scrap for car rollups. 

I should of said i kidding about my post. If you did go on your own i would say the opposite. Charge more than them and do clean, consistant installs.  Really is the only way to set yourself apart.  

Had a guy today wanting the driver rollup on a newer Range Rover remove/replaced. He said it was peeling, but didnt want to call the original installer to do it. I guess just because nobody complaine does not mean everyone is happy.  

Been getting lots of BS jobs lately...few old turds and lots of newer ones that are difficult.  Seems to happen around this time. 

Just go out on your own and do them for $79 put them out of business, get their shop and raise the price to $200. Or just tell

them your plan and demand 50%!

I might just use their film and do it quick and dirty. Theyd be like man the bubbles and creases?!! Id say, hey im outa 'your' film, guess i'll have to use mine now and charge you for removal. 

^^^^ Yep, Just rollups with no shrinking.  

You mentioned that you use 22" for Silverados.  I use a 20" for 98-present, but use the factory bottom edge.  

22s are nice, but not enough vehicles need a 22.  Plus, it wont fit Ford F250 or even the brand new F150 XLT, which has larger rollups. 

just turn the 36" or 40" sideways like JH mentioned. The 36" easily fit the WS on it too. 

2 hours ago, quality tintz said:

Do you bomb drop with baby shampoo???

Yep, and I'll put extra when i know i'll be doing it. 

For me, laying too much film against the glass makes it tougher. I usually have about 3-4 inches agaisnt glass while pushing it down. 

Unger channel on a handle works good for cleaning the bottom with the glass down. 

The H does restrict the films movement some. I started out with H, but went to just a line across for years now.  What you can do is hold your hand along the side edge when doing the corners(same effect as H).  Bgs with a lot of curve ill start heating the side portion (corners) for a second then i use my hand to stretch the side flat.  Another thing i do is split the fingers along the bg before heating and make sure its not all in a corner. Corners are hardest, so push more to the midde to make them easier. 

Did you tack the sides down for shrinking (H pattetn)?? Definitely dont wanna tack the sides down for shrinkiny that bg.   

Man, that Aegis is the worst film to remove. The adhesive when scraped leaves a thin layer and it smells so bad, that would be enough not to use it. The color doesnt match factory at all.  I point this out to customers and show them global afteward and theyre always impressed.  Check out EWF, Global or SolarFX. Aegis doesnt even compare. 

Edit:

Sorry, jumped the gun there...only read first paragraph. No film is gonna hide conatination better than another.  It does sound like moisture is hiding the contamination.  I first chisle specs down from looking from the inside, then once the vehicle is complete, i go back and look from the outside and get any remaining specs. 

No trades!!