pbalentine

Very nice...like the cooler with beer too! Id be like, Sir! please just go grab a beer and take a seat!

Did a 2000 4runner today! Hatch was one bolt under the strap. The bg needed no shrinking versus the newer i dry shrink bottom, wet shrink top. Damn door panels had those pins that audi or vw has where you have to push in the center pin to remove. 3 bolts per panel to pull. 

Ya know i dont remember seeing the strap but have seen them.  The panel had 2 light cover switches ( one on each side that look just like dome lights) with a 10mm on each side.  2 bolts total.  

Once i think i remembet certain vehciles i soon forget. Just too many.  

I recently made a list of vehicles I charge more on, cause i just hate giving regular pricing on these. 

The tips are nice....although i didnt like getting tips in the begining when the custy said everyone elses pricing is too much so they chose me and are basically tipping because they probably felt bad. 

Rear hatch panel had 2-10mm bolts.  Just had to remove/unplug the 2 square hatch light switches on each side of the panel. The side panels are also 2-10mm bolts, for easy access to pull seals.  

As for pulling just the seal out of the rear hatch( you cant.  Its mounted to the panel with several metal tabs.  I did a 16' recently and it was the same. 

Got over doing work cheap for friends way long ago.  Yeah, some might get a small discount, but tinting is hard work, so they gotta repect what we do and pay up!

Did a 2012 Toyota 4Runner and bottom fed the rear glass that goes up/down.  I had the rear hatch in the upright position and just layed it in with no fuss, letting gravity help guide it. . Easiest rear roll down install by far for me.  Wish there were more hatch rear sliders out there. 

On 10/14/2017 at 10:56 PM, Jkatfelix said:

People in general just don't value the work..... everybody is a tint expert.....had a customer say that my tint "chemical" that I sprayed on the window ruined his door panel...I sprayed some in my mouth and said look it's distilled water and baby shampoo pendejo....

Yeah, I had a guy i came back to do a second vehicle for that said i

stained the door panels on his BMW.  Even how he said i could tell he was full of it. Plus, the door panels were popped with seals out...no way. 

As mentioned this cars just sucks....all of it but the rear doors.  Seals dont pull, combined with the fact that its ugly as hell...i'll pass on these from now on. Hans can tint this himself!!!

Had a guy one time say, I tooks off the tint for you on the front doors for you.  Great, now i have to scrap glue from the entire window.  The worst is if they remove a small patch in a bubbled back window. Now, i'll add more if they mention theyre taking it off and for those turd bombs with tint only on bg, cause they couldnt get it off, charge for it.  

Global does need more. In temps above *110 i use about 1 1/2 ounces.  I use just a 1/4 ounce in 75* winter days. I measure using a shot glass that has 3 different measurement units. 

Best just to remove it if possible. If not, i use the bulldozer. I recenlty got new one and i really dont like blade, wish is was more like the blu max blade. 

Best just to remove it if possible. If not, i use the bulldozer. I recenlty got new one and i really dont like blade, wish is was more like the blu max blade. 

If front only is being tinted...20%. If rear gets tint i do 15% then. 

On 10/1/2017 at 6:14 PM, drtint said:

When they ask how much to install film they bough for their car, I tell them 250. Then they ask how much to you mine, I say 250 but mine comes with a warranty. In all my years they have always went with mine.

cheers

Thats right!

On 9/19/2017 at 2:57 PM, DynamicAppearance said:

I can understand in some situations, the tools/installation is the issue.  However, this has been the #1 complaint against Suntek since day one.  Sucks that they never addressed/corrected the issue since it is clearly an issue with the film.  Now that Eastman has it, probably forget that ever being improved.  Supposedly Eastman removed one of the 3 key components of Suntek to make it more profitable...atleast that is what the overseas distributor is claiming in the lawsuit.  I honestly think the only reason they bought them was for the PPF, not the film or the profit from the company.

Recently, I was told that they made changes to the liner, but they have no plans to change/fix the scratchcoat.  

Dynamic, do you know if 3m will sell to me, since Im moslty mobile?? I agree with eastman wanting their PPF. 

While Ive had some customers watch and say they can tell im doing a good job and appreciare it. I dont like people watching. Most get bored quicky and dont watch.  Just have to clean when they come around so they go away.  Ive made so many mistakes, all from people watching. Cutting myself, skipping steps, and even ruined film.  I hate it when they see me flusing the bottom of rollups. Yes, i have to create a water fall down your door panel to avoid a hundred tiny bubbles. 

Been using the 5% for years and dont think its a light limo. Even their 15% comes close to 10% installed. Then again, I moslty tint 2010+ with 70% stock glass on many. Seriously though, side by side you wont notice much difference.  

Dont blame you...if it was me i would of changed my number. 

One thing that makes it harder starting out is the frequency you tint.  5 a week or just 1? You can forget stuff fast and the more you do the quicker you would catch on. If i could go back, i would tint my own vehicle 1-3 times per day, along with shrinking the bg a few times. The cost of film would be worth the waste.  

I can clear this up...that is my post about Global. I got the film from a Global Dealer locally that is no longer selling Global.  Howard from EWF doubted if it was really Global and wanted a roll number, since it faded so quickly.  That Global dealer also sold a cheap dye and im positive that it was i got. 

As far a logevity, Global can not be beat.  Ive had EWF Classic Black for about 5 years on my personal vehicle and it has zero fading, no color change and having a strong scratch coat it has not one scratch!

Just imagine that everyone on tintdude gets to walk around the vehicle to check it out. Thats what i do. Doesnt matter to me if the car is worth $3 or $30k. They should all be tinted to a certain standard.  I'll redo stuff i know the custy most likely wont notice, cause i never want a customer to doubt my work and bring it to a competetor to check it out.  

Id take seal or panel off. Tape off using some

cheap, thin clear tape for the felt to make the sides less tight. Maybe add some extra slip. 

Yeah, i had a custy on a mobile job watching me remove the trim on the panels on a newer VW Passat. Those things are on so tight. Sounds like its breaking when you release them!

If the sweeps are a pain to get back in i just take the whole panel off. 

You can cover the moldings with tape to protect them from heat. 

Seals pull without removing one screw.