badluckmodel3

I don't believe the issue is the glass. Regarding paint, that's CA mandating all cars manufactured there must use eco paint.
 
I thought about this problem, and I believe this can be explained with mechanics of materials.
 
I hypothesize the issue we are experiencing is due to Tesla's exteme glass curvature, causing the tint process to strain the film beyond it's elastic regime and causing significant plastic deformation (strain means deformation of material, or stretching). This effect is called crazing. See here for a high level physics discussion.

 
This effect is seen when you stretch a clear plastic bag to the point where it becomes opaque, indicating the molecular chain realignment in plastic deformation regime is distorting the light transmission.
 
Evidence from both of our cases
- defects occurred near the edges of the film
- tint shrink process stretches the film starting from the middle, and strains the film outward toward edges and corners
- tint install squeegees the film outward toward edges and corners
- defects distort the light transmission, makng the film opaque and crazed
 
Now the question is does this happen during the heat shrink process outside the car, or during the squeegeeing process inside the car? I believe it is more likely that the shrink process outside the window is the origin of this crazing effect, because
- polymers are very sensitive to temperature, eg tints become "rubbery" immediately when exposed to heat gun used to shrink
- no scar marks are seen from squeegeeing
 

Obviously your response is solely based on the number of retints, and you did not consider any of the factors I provided that led to those retints.
 
For the current tint, the distortions are within the depths of field of me during driving, and they distract my focus points every time. Look at the video I provided, which represents the blurry effects across the windshield, then tell me if you think this is acceptable to see during driving.
 
While you're at the topic of batteries, energy storage decreases by 5% after 100,000 miles, and 20% after 400,000 miles. Maybe you need to be reasonable?

I suppose this won't go away with sunlight baking then. Is it terribly difficult to remove residual glue? Previous 3M Ceramic IR was left on the car for over 4 weeks.

The pics provide served well; it appears some specks are small particle contamination and the distorted areas appear to be light adhesive residue that didn't get cleaned away before film was applied.
 
It's a tricky situation removing film from windscreens because there is risk in glass breakage using the steam or sweat method to remove film. That leaves the old fashion removal method of simply peeling the film away, which will likely leave every bit of adhesive on the glass and requires much effort to remove every last bit of residue.
 
If you go for a redo, yet again, consider getting Crystalline. Why? Crystalline is very effective at reflecting the near-infrared (part of solar energy) rather than absorbing it, which occurs with ceramic products.
 
A friend of mine had his truck windscreen tinted with a light version of Stratos product and wound up having it removed because his front window became a radiator. Stratos is a hjgh solar absorptive product as is Pinnacle and other 'like' ceramic products.

1. I don't scrape any tint these days as I approach 6 years in retirement.
 
2. Heat lamps do not represent the sun's energy.