-
Sponsored by
.png)
-
Activity Stream
-
5
Automotive Tint Comparison
If the only tinter providing MEP Films is a mobile tinter that uses more water than normal and I don't have a garage to tint in then would you avoid the tinter and opt for a tinter with a workshop that uses either: SunTek CIR (CeramicIR) CIR SunTek CXP (CarbonXP) CXP SunTek Evolve Solargard VTX Pro Premium Ceramic (by the way, does anyone know where the Technical Spec sheet is, I tried finding to no avail) XPEL Prime XR Black Johnson Window Films InsulatIR IR GLOBAL WINDOW FILMS QDP CERAMIC FILMS Global OZ Window Films CBXtreme Ceramic -
5
Cracked glass
I was thinking it would be higher on the absorption.... Great info on the whole post though Tintguy -
5
Automotive Tint Comparison
MEP Films distribute Llumar in Australia. I for one have been using Llumar since 1984 and have very rarely had or seen any issues with quality and that is why the brand is my go-to the majority of the time. Sun Tek have some good automotive films that I like, but other than those, I am strictly a Llumar user. BTW Eastman Chemical own both Llumar and SunTek so I imagine their film technology may be somewhat shared. -
0
Better shop in Europe to buy Films and Tools?
Hi guys, Im new here and learning how to tint… I live in Europe and to find tools and tints to buy here is very difficult. I just got some tools and tint on this website: tintwrap.eu This website was the only one I could find some felt squeegee and high quality films with the best price to deliver in Europe without ripping me off. the delivery was quick, about 2 days. and the material was high quality as well. Do you guys have any other websites suggestions? Thanks -
0
Paint Protection Film (PPF) is it needed or worth it?
I've never had PPF done before and never had issues with the paint on the car looking bad. I usually park in the garage and have had Kia Casa White - Solid on my Sportage since 2015 and no noticeable issues with the paintwork. The new car is Glacier White - Solid I've been told that PPF is beneficial, but very few people I know have actually opted to get it for their cars. I've been told there are many benefits such as: No need to ever wax or use sealant after the coat is applied Stops the paint fading Makes cars super easy to wash Prevents Acid Etching from animal contaminants, hard water spots, tree sap UV Rays Acid Rain (although I don't think I've ever seen acid rain) Repels Water & Grime Saves Water Will not wash off, crack or peel Non-abrasive Self-Healing Properties: repair minor surface scratches and swirl marks on their own when exposed to heat. So is this all simply marketing spin to provide another product to the market without any noticeable benefits? Does the average family car really need PPF or is this more the reserve of the show car, tuner set, car aficionado niche? Brands SystemX Australia Johnson Paint Protection 3M Cleargard Paint Protection Pro Series Film OMNI Nano-Ceramic Surface Coating 3M Scotchgard Paint Protection Film Pro Series Ceramic Coating Package Graphene Coating Package SunTek PPF OZ Paint Protection Film OZ Paint Protection Films GTechniq Ceramic Coatings Tint Haus 10H Ceramic Coating XPEL Ultimate Fusion Swissvax handmade wax range. Opticoat Pro Ceramic Pro 9H CQuartz Finest Pompanazzi Gtechniq Crystal Serum -
5
Cracked glass
Follow up: Attached is the performance data for Johnson's Resi/Comm window films and if you look to the bottom you'll see DN50 has a solar absorption of 39%, which is well below the threshold of concern which is generally accepted as 50% absorption (with no shadow). With a straight line shading from the roof this does increase the risk, which is usually low for straight line shading compared to other types. I've also attached a pdf of Johnson's film-to-glass chart which is used to determine how safe a film is. The thicker the glass the higher the risk; you say 6mm tempered and 4mm is the cracked one (interior pane). The question now is what compass direction do these panels face? In the end, I'll just suggest you hook back up with the person that installed it and get his input. He had to have been comfortable suggesting that film. I still believe it's a one off cracked panel and the rest will be fine. It takes 2 seasonal cycles to know for sure. Truly your call as to whether or not to replace with something lighter such as DN60. Here's more helpful info that helps you question the glass type on the interior; is it plate or is it heat-strengthened (HS). I believe it is plate and not tempered or HS. Why? Plate glass with suffer thermal shock if the edge temperature is different than the center of the glass by 50 degrees F. Heat strengthened requires 100 degree F difference, and Tempered requires 200 degree F difference. Ryker chimed in and that stimulated further review. Good Luck with this. johnsonFilmToGlass_2021.pdf- 1
-
-
5
Cracked glass
Whatever that glass is that cracked it is NOT tempered. DN 50 is pretty high solar absorption and your saying shadows too so you probably need a more reflective film.- 1
-
-
5
Cracked glass
Hey, thank you for taking the time to reply. It's greatly appreciated! -
5
Automotive Tint Comparison
1) Why avoid Suntek? I thought they resolved that issued with the easy scratching and that they are one of the market leaders in Australia? Also, it seems most of the well established Tint businesses use Suntek 2) I've heard mixed things about Rayno, with some installers raving about it and others disparaging it. Makes it difficult for the consumer to know the truth, given vested interests exist. 3) Is Ultragard a Australian exclusive product? The IP seems to be owned by GTS FILMS PTY LTD. How's the quality as it seems to have limited installers. 4) Is the MEP Films CNP that apparently are Manufactured by LLumar of the same quality as the LLumar tints (such as Llumar Formula One Stratos; Llumar Formula One Pinnacle; Llumar CTX)? 5) -
5
Cracked glass
The crack indicates thermal stress, however, the edge of the glass may have an imperfection (bur or clam shell chip). The crack does run 90 degrees out from the edge and curves as it follows any weaknesses in the pane itself. I have attached a pictured of what tempered glass looks like when it breaks and alongside it what a plate (or float) and heat-strengthened glass looks like when it breaks. The outer panel my be tempered should indicate so by a stamp etched on the glass surface in one corner. It should indicate tempered. Plate glass has no indicators, however, heat-strengthened glass will crack in the same manner as plate glass. I'm an unsure whether heat-strengthened glass requires a stamp. Tempered glass is 4 times stronger than plate and heat-strengthened is 2 times stronger than plate. 1 in 24 is indicative of edge imperfection. I could not find the solar absorption rate of DN 50, but if it is similar to competitive films, there should be no issue with that installation setting (including a straight line shadow). This, too, points back to edge imperfection as the cause. And finally, I spy drapes in a close position, correct? If so, it would be helpful to crack open during sun exposure; this to assist in allowing trapped heat between the glass and drapes to dissipate.- 2
-
-
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.