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Mazda 6


Fiveofeen

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Funny response :lol2

I personally found that by the time I fooled around with the red devils on that car, it wasn't a clean enough install for me personally (before I get chewed out I'll state that I probably am not as good at using those things as others on here :twocents )

I did one of these cars last night and for the hell of it timed it,with the right power rachets and know how, these panels pull off AND go back on with a total time of 20 min.

For me personally, it's worth the time . Whenever coming upon door windows that you'd rather shrink than stretch but are afraid of burning trim, just roll down the window slightly with the fingers at the TOP of the windows and you'll never have that problem or worry again :lol2

I couldn't have put it better myself TW.

Doing the installation that way guarantes a job never returns because of peeling or where a customer sees contam and wants it redone so add up that prevention in redo time and you are way in front.

Devil

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Guest goldtooth
To each his/her own I'll say yes, others will say no. I tint doors based on nothing in the way on the bottom of doors .

All I can tell you is that I usually pull back panels / use a gasket wizard or remove the rub rail and only remove panels if I think it will make a difference in the outcome of the final job. This car I do it on , I don't do it because I feel like putting in extra steps for something to do :lol2

to each his own :lol:lol I dont pop panels,I can tint most any car without doing that,but I have tinted for shops that do,and it is easier.. but I can do a quality job either way.. :lol2

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Guest beano

most cars these days have clip of panels (some have flimsy peel back ones) so what I do is pull it off, unhook from the top and stick back on so I dont have to disconnect everything) it doesnt take much longer and the ease of the job is better, it makes it easier to trim the bottom of the tint if its too long. (which reminds me on mazda 6s if the bottom of the tint is trimmed correctly you dont need to shrink the side windows ive found)

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Guest beano

the way I work with tint is I make sure I have extra overhang at the top and bottom of the side windows. itrim the top exact with the glass at the top before winding the glass up, squeegee the bottom then trim below the seal :spit

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I have best luck getting a perfect install with the panels off! Too tight to tuck on the last 2 I did. Sure there's a lot of tinters that can get er done without pulling it, but I'm not one of them.

By the way, on the last two I did, there were only 2 screws, but I had to hang the panels because there was no easy way to release the window switch from the panel. If you are a panel puller, just do it. Each panel only takes about 5 or 6 minutes to r&r, and no fighting the sweep and contamination.

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As for the back window, I've noticed some have a small matrix the whole way around, and some have a solid border. Not sure what year it changed. It seems like the one with the matrix has a slightly more challenging curve than the one with the solid border, but it could be my imagination as some days shrinking goes better than others. I soap method and H it, trim the corners but then leave some fla on the top and bottom so it can be lift and pulled during the shrink. (Like the Beetle video a few years back) Then tack it down good on the sides a good 3 or 4 inches wide instead of trying to shrink the corners at the edges, until the wet check. My horizontal anchor is dead center because the top and bottom seem to have the same excess.

Sorry, was fixing typo and hit reply by accident. Leave flaps on top and bottom to pull excess towards center during shrink.

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I've done countless of these cars but never had to do the pull and shrink like a beetle as you are doing. This is an easy shrink window no where near needed to be done like the beetle.

With using soap shrink and dual heatguns to shrink, no H pattern , just tack the left side and right side, will shrink no problem without any wet check in about 4 minutes :thumb

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