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New shop floor


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:beer looks good, and a chair still rolls OK on it :beer I would think it wouldn't roll as well :beer

Not AS well for sure , but I think good enough..I just got it done about midnight last light, I'll be tinting a new Mazda 3 sedan from the dealer on Sunday , I'll let you know how the first tinting on it worked out as far as any potential buckling, slipping,rolling of the seat, etc :beer

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I thought I'd give an update . This rubberized flooring combined with the rubberized pond liner ans a shop vac is making winter tinting and thawing out of a vehicle a much easier job and cleaner shop. I give it a thumbs up :thumb

This IS truly THE way IMO of tinting in the harsh winter climates while maintaining a clean floor to work in if you do not have drainage in your shop. I'm thinking this time the floor will look as good yrs down the road without refinishing it. Finally the days of having a shop floor not look good is over with yet "tinting user friendly" :hmmm

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Guest FilmBlazer

I am moving my shop next month and I would like to do something with my floors before I put anything in inside. Can anyone recommend a quality epoxy they use or maybe even some to stay away from?

Thanks,

FB

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I am moving my shop next month and I would like to do something with my floors before I put anything in inside. Can anyone recommend a quality epoxy they use or maybe even some to stay away from?

Thanks,

FB

I've done the epoxy thing ..high grade and you still get problems where your stool rolls continuously and wear and tear where the wheels of a vehicle come in and out . I'm telling you , rubberized (whichever system ) is the way to go where the actual vehicles come in and out IMO

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Guest FilmBlazer

I hear ya, thanks for the input.... I don't do a ton of automotive, but I spend a fair amount of time in my shop. Have you tried different brands, and if so any better experiences with some over others? I'm going with epoxy because it will be less expensive and I expect that it will work fine for the amount of traffic I have which is minimal. Any prep advice as far as what tools/solvents to use?

Thanks TW, it sounds like you have been through this a few times and our climates are both pretty cold and snowy.

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Use P.T.S. to clean your concrete with scouring /cleansing , sanding , then do it again. Problem with ANY epoxy or floor pain is that no matter how good of a bond you get, as soon as you bring in say a heavy F250 or something and it's got rocks embedded in the tread of the wheels, it'll scuff the best of epoxies..once that happens, moisture will find its way in underneath , then it starts breaking down underneath the epoxy..then B4 you know it, big chunks of epoxy are coming up. The flooring I put down cost about 3 times the cost of a pro rated epoxy but it's a one shot deal with no prepping of the floor and the best part, you can replace a peice like a jig saw and you can take it with you if you ever decide to move or even sell it if you don't like it ..it's a no lose IMO ..but to each his/her own ..I only stress this because I've tried many different ways on flooring and have spend more than I care to say over the yrs :welcome

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