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I would recommend Global non-cap ppf and get a second bottle with plain water only to flush the edges for better adhesion.
If you're leaving water behind try using a different squeegee. I prefer a dark yellow turbo from Interwest.
Instead of heating I think you should be streaching the film into place to pull the fingers out.
Y'all try not to get too excited, but this is the four cylinder Suzuki version of the Geo Metro with a whopping 1.3L. No ac or power steering but getting 45mpg on 13" rims.
Hello, thanks for allowing me to join. I'm a retired auto technician/High School Automotive Instructor. Enjoyed working on cars all of my life. I have had and still have several nice cars (mostly Corvettes) and enjoy keepng them nice. I have a lift in my garage which helps with the install on lower areas of the vehicle. I have been tinkering with PPF film here and there on rock chip prone areas on my cars. I have been sucessful sometimes installing where it was acceptable to my liking, but never perfect. I have had to rip several off and start over. That doesn't bother me because I really want to master this. Education isn't free and if it means wasting film and time I understand. I have gotten over the fear of installing it on small areas (front of wheel well area on rear quarter of C8 Corvette) and shrinking it with heat gun to smooth out fingers but cannot do an insatll without getting any bubbles completely. Some installs the bubbles have dried over a couple of weeks and were acceptable for me. But other installs were not, and I had to start over. The solution I'm using is the typical 16oz distilled water and 2 or 3 drops of baby shampoo. The film is Ebay pre-cut kits. Can anyone shed any light as to what I'm doing wrong to minimize the bubbles? Is there a different solution I should be using? Is there a better film to start with that is easier to use for beginners? I'd appreciate any advice or tips I can get. Thanks in advance!
Thanks for the reply! I will see what happens. I tested the paint on a scrap of PPF I had sitting around, the it seems really secure. Just for perspective, I attached a photo of my goof. It really was a small divot, just bugged me that I did it at all. I did place a very small bit of paint on the top of the exposure. Living in MN, rust is always the concern, so I am hoping I have this sealed. While I know that PPF can't heal a cut like this, it was very flat so the exposure should hopefully be minimal.
(What looks like a fold is the reflection of a seam in the ceiling)
Sometimes customers show up with a few chips but no touch up paint to fix them before the install. I have had pretty good luck putting a few drops of touch up paint in a syringe and injecting that under the film into the chip once they come back with the paint. You might want to try that when that paint on top washes off.
I would go at it with a few chemicals to see what might work and definitely have some steel wool like @Tintguy1980 mentioned. Wouldn't hurt to tape off the edge of the frame and use some plastic sheeting to keep the chems off the paint and rince everything after.
Chems I might try:
1. 3m adhesive remover in the red can (not aerosol)
2. Spot Shot
3. Rapid Remover
Or maybe just a tablespoon of soap in a bottle of water and a scraper blade.
Alcohol won't always do it depending on what the adhesive is polar towards, and can sometimes seem to harden it.
If you are BLADING THE GLASS, make a conscious effort to ALWAYS HAVE ONE ARM BEHIND YOUR BACK.
Failure to do so can send you to the hospital quickly...this was a tough lesson that I and many others learned the hard way!!!
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And
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Fulltime or Part time. Compensation will be discussed in person.702-909-0202
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