Dry Shrinking Back Window

[Guest VaTinterPMan]

Im pretty sure thats a chevy impala too. Might not be same year as this but is close in body style. Cant Mistake those quarter windows http://www.sixdrift.com/graphics/impala1.jpg

Cause sonata's have a different quarter window and years before they didnt have ne. http://www.netcarshow.com/hyundai/2009-son...allpaper_05.htm

EDIT* After rethinking the impala doesnt have a thrid break light by the window So im not sure but I know its not a sonata unless they have 2 different models in one year.

[Guest scottydosnntkno]

Well everyone hear knows im a "newbie" also, but I can safely say Im pretty confident in heat shrinking any back window, I have more problems with the sides than I do with the back windows...weird I know But I would strongly recommend doing this and maybe it would help..I clean back window, spray a couple bounty dryer sheets wipe it down, lay the tint on the window, go through the center of the window with a squeege to tack it down to the window, then with your hand push the fingers away from the corners and then squeege them down as well so that the center is now tacked down along with your corners, so before you even start heat shrinking the window all your fingers should be away from the corners and more toward the center, then begin your heat shrinking, you should be fine! Hope it helps a little bit for ya, try looking up the way others do it on youtube.com, helped me alot also

Talk to ya soon

gunner, a couple things.

first, your way of tacking down the film is pretty much the standard way of dry shrinking a window. Tack the middle and the sides, otherwise known as the "H" pattern. Its so popular because of what you have said, it pushes the fingers to the middle. Its a great way to begin with, but on the harder windows its not so good. If you squeegee down 4" on each side and 4" in the middle, thats 12" of a 48-55" wide window that is not being shrunk at all, forcing a lot more shrink to the rest of the film. Some films can handle it, some can't. Try doing a straight line across the middle, and then only 4" up/down from there on each side. Having the corners free float make it a lot easier to give it a little tug if needed, and allows that portion to shrink too.

second, stop using dryer sheets with your bare hands. There have been numerous threads on here talking about the extreme toxicity of them when absorbed into the skin over periods of time. Do a search for them. Think about switching to the mdog soap method. It works exactly the same, only you use ivory soap and a rag to wipe it on. No toxins, no problems. Plus, one bar lasts forever, I'm on the same one from a year ago, and its like $1.49 for three bars.

ps- newbie with 12 years experience?

[Guest scottydosnntkno]

Im pretty sure thats a chevy impala too. Might not be same year as this but is close in body style. Cant Mistake those quarter windows http://www.sixdrift.com/graphics/impala1.jpg

Cause sonata's have a different quarter window and years before they didnt have ne. http://www.netcarshow.com/hyundai/2009-son...allpaper_05.htm

EDIT* After rethinking the impala doesnt have a thrid break light by the window So im not sure but I know its not a sonata unless they have 2 different models in one year.

its DEF not a hyundai, and either a impala or a malibu. I've done some that have the breaklight in the window like that, similar to a lot of new cars. for 08 there were fusions with and without the brake light in the window, same with 300s.

[Guest Gunner]

Thanks Scotty, awesome tip man, ill defenitely try the floating thing..what would you say that you would use the float method on? like firebirds and stuff like that? also where do you get these soap bars at? Also Im new at tint by the way, Ive been doing custom graphics, airbrushing, full vehicle wraps, etc. for the past 12 years..Ive been around tint for 12 years but these tinters that I worked with were way oldschool, lol..but they were good. I recently added tinting for my own business..so thanks for the tips buddy its greatly appreciated

Thank you

MAT

[Guest Gunner]

Okay I see its just a regular ivory soap bar..gotcha! duurrrrr..I rode the short bus to this website ya know?

[Guest VaTinterPMan]

Hey scotty agreed with me! gotta throw this in there! And yeah I knew it wasnt a POS hyundai. They dont have that 1/4 window. 18 yrs experience and he couldnt remember what he tinted. WOW. And the film does look purple doesnt it scotty?

[Guest scottydosnntkno]

Thanks Scotty, awesome tip man, ill defenitely try the floating thing..what would you say that you would use the float method on? like firebirds and stuff like that? also where do you get these soap bars at? Also Im new at tint by the way, Ive been doing custom graphics, airbrushing, full vehicle wraps, etc. for the past 12 years..Ive been around tint for 12 years but these tinters that I worked with were way oldschool, lol..but they were good. I recently added tinting for my own business..so thanks for the tips buddy its greatly appreciated

Thank you

MAT

I wouldn't consider a firebird a hard window, its not even that curved. Just do a normal dry shrink on the upper 1/3rd and then wetshrink the bottom so it stays down and doesn't pull up. nice and easy

I meant harder BGs as in older sentras, grand prix, saturns, vettes, etc

[Guest Gunner]

Okay cool..ya I heard Saturns especially like the 1995 ones are a bitch..been lucky enough I havent had one yet..lol

Thanks

[Guest scottydosnntkno]

Okay cool..ya I heard Saturns especially like the 1995 ones are a bitch..been lucky enough I havent had one yet..lol

Thanks

2002 ones like mine are a pain too. The window is a bubble pretty much

[Guest Mo Evo]

I still contend that's a Hyundai Elantra. I tint enough of those to know. If you don't believe me, look at the Elantra gallery on Hyundai's website.