heat shrinking the roll ups

[funes]

Hi again my friends,

brief story: 1 shop tested me to be a tinter there and i did a good job with the backglass, quarter windows and rear roll ups, the problem was that i could not heat shrink the 2 front roll ups (i kept creasing the film when trying to) from a lexus is250. as many of you know in another topic i explained that the film was a lot more thicker than the film i used for learning.

so My question is just this:

After the typical anchor when heat shrinking a roll up window should i squegee out all the water and then just"dry" heat shrink the fingers or should i ancher then squegee out some of the water and leave some moisture at the bottom and then "wet" heat shrink.

oh by the way with 3m film (kind of thin film) i always do wet heat shrinking but with thicker film like johnson film it doesnt seem to be a good tactic so thats why i am asking.

thanks in advance for your help amigos, i really appreciate it.

[Guest tint14u]

Hi again my friends,

brief story: 1 shop tested me to be a tinter there and i did a good job with the backglass, quarter windows and rear roll ups, the problem was that i could not heat shrink the 2 front roll ups (i kept creasing the film when trying to) from a lexus is250. as many of you know in another topic i explained that the film was a lot more thicker than the film i used for learning.

so My question is just this:

After the typical anchor when heat shrinking a roll up window should i squegee out all the water and then just"dry" heat shrink the fingers or should i ancher then squegee out some of the water and leave some moisture at the bottom and then "wet" heat shrink.

oh by the way with 3m film (kind of thin film) i always do wet heat shrinking but with thicker film like johnson film it doesnt seem to be a good tactic so thats why i am asking.

thanks in advance for your help amigos, i really appreciate it.

I shrink all roll ups on the car but do a search here Jeff Rutherford has a cool technique called snaping the film off the car

Good luck

[Guest maddtinter]

Hi again my friends,

brief story: 1 shop tested me to be a tinter there and i did a good job with the backglass, quarter windows and rear roll ups, the problem was that i could not heat shrink the 2 front roll ups (i kept creasing the film when trying to) from a lexus is250. as many of you know in another topic i explained that the film was a lot more thicker than the film i used for learning.

so My question is just this:

After the typical anchor when heat shrinking a roll up window should i squegee out all the water and then just"dry" heat shrink the fingers or should i ancher then squegee out some of the water and leave some moisture at the bottom and then "wet" heat shrink.

oh by the way with 3m film (kind of thin film) i always do wet heat shrinking but with thicker film like johnson film it doesnt seem to be a good tactic so thats why i am asking.

thanks in advance for your help amigos, i really appreciate it.

Dry shrink is fast and easy on all windows.

[Mpameno81]

The IS's do take quite a bit of shrinking. From my experiance, even after shrinking before installing I usually have to go back through on the inside and touch up small fingers. & I've personally never dry shrunk a roll up, always wet.

[mikebrook_07]

Are you using a hard card to shrink? Maybe try wiping the fingers with your hand or using more slip.

[Guest loy]

Fruit rollups???

Heating those up sounds like a awful mess. heh

[Guest Cadillac.Tint.89]

Hi again my friends,

brief story: 1 shop tested me to be a tinter there and i did a good job with the backglass, quarter windows and rear roll ups, the problem was that i could not heat shrink the 2 front roll ups (i kept creasing the film when trying to) from a lexus is250. as many of you know in another topic i explained that the film was a lot more thicker than the film i used for learning.

so My question is just this:

After the typical anchor when heat shrinking a roll up window should i squegee out all the water and then just"dry" heat shrink the fingers or should i ancher then squegee out some of the water and leave some moisture at the bottom and then "wet" heat shrink.

oh by the way with 3m film (kind of thin film) i always do wet heat shrinking but with thicker film like johnson film it doesnt seem to be a good tactic so thats why i am asking.

thanks in advance for your help amigos, i really appreciate it.

I have never had any trouble with squeegeeing all the water out with a hard card and then shrinking any fingers that should happen to pop up on the bottom edge. even on the Lexus is250's

[watchdaride]

if your not too experience a is250 isnt the best car to test someone on . At least the side doors . drop the panels on the front dore. I think only 3 screws and it pops off

[coast2coasttinting]

I rarely ever have to shrink door glasses. On some cars you do have more then other's. It sounds to me like the film my have been turned side ways. Did you hand cut these piece's or did they give them to you cut off a plotter?

[twotint]

If its not making a squiggly line when you shrink you are heating the wrong way to the grain. If you take theose trim panels off you won't have to shrink those doors, just my